dtrs5kprs

Right. Like the captions stating Clausen was flipping a Mann's worm, when the baits he kept rigging looked an awful lot (or exactly) like the 10" gambler worms in my summertime box.

I would either try the JB and mill it to shape and depth, or... drill into the mold ( a forstner bit would be ideal if it will cut it ) then use jb weld to fix a piece of aluminum rod of correct diameter for the eyes, cut to length and milled flat on the end. Hope that makes sense when read. It made sense to me when looking at a poured #9 head. Nice paint on those heads by the way.

With the possible exception of quick curing tubes, water cooling is more of a mess than a benefit. I found it to cause shrinkage, issues with color and salt. I prefer to pull the baits and lay them on a metal or tile surface (loke a cheap aluminum camping table).

I found the US Comp 25 product to be a lot softer than the products I was used to. The next harder product (40 I believe) is probably a better choice for lead molding. Depends on what you are looking for I guess. I have had too many issues with bubbles and sticking to masters with the 1:1 product I have used. I did order some of Smooth On's 1:1 (920 without looking) and will give it a go.

I've had pretty good luck using a 12"x12" piece of white ceramic tile. Lighting is key, as is shooting lots of pics to get the "right" one.

I have used LC's RTV, the one from Barlow's, two different products from US Composites, and one other one (a 1:1 mix product that I do not care for). Just received my first RTV's from Smooth On this week, ordered 2, have 2 more on order. I have not yet used their RTV, but I have used Smooth On's 300 series plastic for making master/mother molds for several years now & it is excellent. Pending results with Smooth On, I would spend my $$$ on the RTV from LC. It works every time, excepting the occasional instance of DOH! on the part of yours truly. Will post results from Smooth On when I have some. Working on masters for a few new custom molds, and will be pouring RTV when those are complete.

Shoot...I can't even get the powers that be to buy me a digital scale for the pharmacy. Maybe they know I would just spend all day balancing jerkbaits and square bills.

Flashabou (krystal flash, etc) is much cheaper and easier to work with than Lumaflex.

You can also just put the components in the mold, close it, and let the heat of the mold warm them up. I have 2 of the shad head molds, one for swim baits, one modified for spinnerbaits. Warming up the components was a key for me on both. Shot is ok for pouring, but I try to cut it in with some softer lead when I use it.

Watched some of the Classic coverage this a.m. and saw the underwater shots of the Chatterbait. As a recovering yankee, that thing looks like it works an awful lot like the weedless spoons (silver minnow, etc) we used to dress with a skirt and rind for pike and bass up north. Just wondered if that struck anyone else. Looks like it would be a real PITA to build on any scale. Don't think it would do much for our spots and brownies in 50' of water at T-Rock either.

And if you think once (or less) and have to cut 3 or 4 times, well... there is always JB Weld to make you feel better about it.

Couple of new ones...a small craw for split shot/drop shot/bed fishing. Rigs up nicely on a small EWG or #1-#1/0 split shot or circle hook. Also some drop shot bait fish and my first swim bait. All custom from the ground up and poured in RTV molds. Will put the pics up at my yahoo photo page in the interests of space. http://photos.yahoo.com/dtrs5kprs

Pencil erasers are the deal for dots. Pick up some regular old #2's and also some "huskies", use a hand pencil sharpener & sandpaper to shape the erasers as needed. I use them for all my "dots & spots"...eyes, shad spots.

I also have one...it is a great color resource and just a cool item. Saw one on ebay going over $50 at day 3 or so of a long auction. That is probably your best spot to pick one up. Also a great place to look at colors.

hmmm...not sure the PETA folks will be happy about this Looks like a great mold and a nice bait. Assume you are running about a 5/0 EWG...any hook-up issues due to the size?

are you using stabilizer? how much salt?

I think most of us are shooting Createx. Someone (Skeeter maybe?) shoots house paint and does well with it.

Give Skirts Plus a call and ask them about it...the PB&J is a lighter base color than the other pumpkin/purple/barbwire color that is in a few of the catalogs (Barlow's, Jann's, LureCraft). We bought some from Skirts Plus a few years back, along with some custom brown and purple flake strips. They can do some amazing things for you if you ask. If you just need a few and are close try Fin & Feather (Z-Tackle) in Springfield, MO or Table Rock Tackle on HWY 13 at T-Rock. Should both have some of that color available.

I usually run 1+ teaspoon to a full hot pot (regular size), maybe a little more if running a clear color like firecracker, light smoke, light rootbeer/amber, etc. Possibly the most important additive you can use.

Lurecraft used to have it in a large "hex" size. Was a special order item, not listed in the catalog. You might give them a call & check.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=208 should be the link to the pic in the photo gallery

I have modified that mold for a wire guard jig...works fine wth the Mustad light wire flat eye 32798BLN ( I think, without pulling a box and looking) in 3/0.

Thanks. Ordered one this afternoon after seeing a pic on ebay. Think it will work nicely for spinnerbaits once the wire channel is cut.

Does anyone know where the sprues are on the do-it shad head jig model SHB-5-A (the 5 cavity mold with the little raised eyes, ring and barb collar)? Am interested in buying one and modifying it for spinnerbaits but that might not be possible if the sprues are in a bad spot. Anyone know if the come in at the front of the head like a round head jig, or on the bottom side of the head? Thanks.

Guess I'll have to throw in with Skeeter on the VL, or its cousin the Milennium. I'd rather buy more than one brush for the $$$.