Hughesy

I'm not sure but I don't think you can touch one for $1400!

We did us a UV curing operation on our production baits. Ours was a UV epoxy that we dipped in, and hung the lure on a rotating conveyor that went in front of a rather strong uv curing lamp. The lure would dry in 5 seconds. We did have one bad experince with some bad epoxy. But other than that, worked for us. I think this stuff is a Polyester Gloss Resin. I haven't tried it. It might be great stuff.

Try shooting a waterbase clear on your baits before you dip them. It may stop the bleeding.

Most of the time you can get a small pocket knife blade under them and pop them off. Some come off easy, some not so easy. Just stick em back on with a very small amount of super glue gel after painting, then clear over them.

Looks like to me its jones tones transfer foil put on in stripes or rows.

Mark, Here ya go Buddy!!! http://www.brannansb...rings-20ct.aspx http://www.texasbass...p?idproduct=548 I love the Switchback. I got to design the colors for it with Tim Horton. Great guy and great to work with.

I'm new to powder coating and was wondering if it is possible to build a fluid bed that was long enough to dip 20 a-rigs at the same time? I was thinking about pre heating a rack of them in an oven, removing the rack and dipping in the fluid bed. Also, I want the a-rigs white with halo glitter. They will also have red 3D eyes like used in crankbaits. So does this mean I will have to dip into the white, then reheat into clear with glitter? Or, is it possible to double dip like white then clear with glitter. Here's another problem. I would really like to have the eyes under the clear to help hold them on. So can I dip the white, add eyes and then reheat to dip the clear. Do you think the eyes can take the heat? Thanks in advance for helping thss rookie out. Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use Mona Lisa Gold Leaf adhesive. It comes in a bottle and shoots like water thru an airbrush. It lays down very smooth. You can get it online or at Hobby Lobby. Shoot it, let it dry, Then apply the foil. When you pull the foil back off, do it very fast. I mean rip it off. If you pull it off slow, it sometimes takes the glue with it.The glue goes on white and is clear when it drys. I always put down a silver base coat first on the lure. It helps hide any small missed areas.

Here ya go!!! http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/14103-does-anyone-do-or-know-how-to-do-the-old-g-finish/page__p__105668__hl__effex__fromsearch__1#entry105668

Do a Google search on pine wood derby tungsten weights. I use them a lot.

The foil you are looking for is made by Jones Tones Foils. That style is called silver laser drops. There is no edge to cover up because this is a transfer foil. Apply glue, apply foil and peel off the face leaving the foil on the lures. Do the sides in the foil, paint the belly and back, clear coat and done!

You can get them at lurepartsonline.com I think.

Check out this post. stencils

Ben, Your just lucky you don't live closer to me. I'd be putting your butt to work and not sweeping floors!

Well I agree with both Dean and RiverMan. I agree with Riverman that epoxy coatings are probably the toughest coating out here right now and is what should be used if you are going to soak your lures for long periods of time or, if you are going after toothy critters. In the bass fishing world the epoxy coating will work just fine for most applications. However, there are certain applications where epoxy does not fill the niche. Epoxy coatings being so thick, sometimes affects the buoyancy of say a suspending stick bait or a top water lure. Also, on painted bills where there are sharp corners or edges( some wiggle warts or the mouth of a Pop R), epoxy coatings repel from those areas and very often allow water to get underneath and the epoxy begins to peel. This is where I agree with Dean. On bass fishing lures the S81 and 82 will fill the niche because they are extremely tough and they will adhere to these edges and reduce the weight of the clear coat. The 81 is the toughest urethane out there but has storage issues and will react to certain paints. But once cured is awesome. Now for the 82. This is the most user friendly stuff I have ever seen. You must use several coats, but when fully cured, it too is tough stuff. It is perfect for the beginner because you don't have to build a lure turner, no mixing, no fumes, no reaction to paints, and if you let it fully cure, you will have a coating that is very well suited for normal bass fishing lures. If you want something a little tougher go with the 81. You see it all comes down to the application of the clear coat. Epoxy coatings are great for toothy critters, lures that are going to see extended periods of time in the water, and bass crank baits where they will be put to extreme abuse bouncing off of rocks and timber. For top waters, stick baits, lures with sharp edges, you need something lighter and something that will cling to the edges. S81,82, and automotive clears fit the bill here. When we did production work where we needed something strong and fast. We used uv curing epoxy from epoxy coatings co. in California which is no longer in biz. So it all boils down to #1 what you are fishing for. #2 The kind of lure you are coating. And #3 how you are fishing the lure. I think RiverMan is using the right application for his lures and Dean is using the right one for his. Both of these guys make great lures and know what they are talking about.

We do use a blast cabinet and it only take seconds to clear out a lure without remove the details. We use fine glass for blasting at 120 psi. Taping off the bill does protect it but you have to retape after blasting. We then wipe the lure with an acetone soaked Q-tip to remove blasting media and to help smooth out the finish. This does not work however on epoxy coated lures and the glass bounces off of the epoxy. So we peel the epoxy before blasting the paint. Works great on stock factory lures though. Some lures like the old style wiggle warts, you can just wipe with acetone. Hope this helps!!

Has anyone tried this place? http://www.admiraltymarinecoatings.com/crowncoat/uhc.html

What Mark said!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you both Mr. and Mrs Redg8tr.

Mark, Yes the uv curing does heat the lure but not very much. They cure in 5 seconds and the light is about 1600 degrees. The lure are about 6 inches from the light and comes out just warm to touch.

I use several different clear coats depending on what style bait I'm clear coating. For Cranks I use a 2 part polymer that a chemist friend of mine makes to my specs. It has a uv additive added to it to help keep it from yellowing. For stickbaits and some topwaters, I use Dick Nites. For production work we use a uv curing epoxy.

Merry Christmas everyone!!!!!!!and lets remember the reason for the season.

I use 4011 reducer by Createx. 4011 Flash Reducer - Fast Dry. Use to thin colors for improved flow, leveling and spray-ability with an acceleration in drying time. For airbrush usage, 4011 Flash Reducer aids with control and preventing over-spray when using smaller tip sizes at lower PSI settings for cleaner lines for detailed work.

I'll take all 3 thank you!

It doesn't matter I'd just get paint and clear coat all over it!!!