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Hughesy

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Everything posted by Hughesy

  1. Nunnable I designed that color for Bass Pro Shops. It goes like this. 1. cover white entire lure. 2. chrome pearlescent entire lure. 3. scale back with black. 4.Chartreuse stripe 5. cover entire lure with blue glimmer. 5. Black dot. I shoot lacquer so you will have to find these paints in water base . I'm sure the blue glimmer is made in water base. It turns the black back blue, but just puts a blue sheen on the rest of the lure.
  2. I think your missing something. I know of no lures that have tint mixed with the clear coat. A picture of the lure you are trying to match would help us help you.
  3. Does anybody know of any software on the market (that you can buy)that is similar to this and can be used with a 3D printer? Dave?
  4. If it is fabric mesh, you might try washing it and rough it up a bit. let it dry and then do it again. See if it get any softer and lays down better for ya. This doesn't work on some nylon mesh.
  5. Looks killer John. Do you apply a clear over it before you start to paint? How does it look over say a pearl white body. Does it dull the pearl effect?
  6. John, Can you tell me the advantages of the tissue paper over the decal paper? Just curious.
  7. If you want them to run shallow, take a look at a bagleys balsa b square bill. Notice where the line tie is. Your bill angle is similar so just move the line tie and they should be good to go.
  8. All rattle can chrome paints are junk. First of all, it is just aluminum paint and is not even close to chrome. Secondly, as stated before, after clear coat it just turns gray. Don't waste time or money.
  9. The copper coating is the to conduct electrical current which is part of the electroplating process.
  10. We use medium grit baking soda. It works great on plastic lures. It does not remove the details in the lure as long as you don't blast it for too long. I would not recommend it on wooden lures as it gets into the wood too much. Also it is no good on epoxy finishes just factory clear coats
  11. http://www.paulinespreciousgifts.com/CD%20Kinami%20Baits.htm
  12. Another option, if your worried about the screw eye pulling out of soft wood like balsa, is to drill a 1/4" hole and glue in a hard wood dowel. Drill a small hole for the screw eye, then glue and twist her in.
  13. I've heard of guys slipping a plastic straw over the nozzle causing the pool up effect that Chuck is talking about. I've never tried it but it sounds like it would work. You would have to experiment on the length of the straw and air pressure.
  14. I'm with Bob P on the drill bit except after I drill out the epoxy, I them buff off the hook hangers with a small dremel stainless wire brush.
  15. Brilliant Gino! Great idea. Thanks for sharing.
  16. You can get great tips for burning in scales here. http://www.mckenziesp.com/Fish-Scale-Tips-C5056.aspx
  17. On the warts, it depends on what colors you have.
  18. I had a little meeting with the IRS at my house over Federal Excise Tax and the repainting of lures. There is no Federal Excise Tax on repainting of lures. They do not consider it further manufacturing and I have a signed letter to prove it. As far as add ons, and especially if you make the lure, I'm pretty sure that would be taxable.
  19. Be careful using a blaster if the Bagley is wood because you run the risk of blasting into the wood. Take it slow and stop when you see the thick white primer used on bagley wood baits. Blasting is better for plastic baits.
  20. I have heard of some people using brake fluid to remove paint but I have never tried it.
  21. There are several home soda blasters on youtube.
  22. Soda blasting will solve all of your problems including chrome, without removing detail in the lure.
  23. You probably need to degas your resin in a vacuum chamber.
  24. What make/model printer are you using?
  25. Is the bait hollow or does the material it is made of float? You might be better off making two halves and gluing them together giving you a hollow bodied lure.
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