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Everything posted by Mylures
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Hey all, the Neenah Lure Collectors, swap meet & show is on Sat. March 15th from 9:00 a.m. until 1:00 p.m. at the Neenah Holiday Inn. On Sunday the Muskie Magic show is at the middle school in New London from 11:00 a.m. to 5 p.m. Hope to see you there. Ken
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Hey SP, I'll be there also so I will talk to you then. Also there is another show on Sunday at New London called the Muskie Magic Show. I'll talk to you on Sat. Ken Schmitz (Creator of the Magnum MuskieBurger)
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Good job Nathan, no doubt about it. I would have to say the eyes got it and there are no nays. Thanks for the tips. Ken
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Hi there, I like to use the clear vinyl material that comes in about 4 foot widths at WalMart. You can buy it by the yard and in different thickness's. The real light stuff doesn't work real well. I think they have 4-5 different thickness's. I use either the second or third heavier. The reason I like the clear is because you can see where you locating the stencil on the lure. Spray your paint, dry with a hairdryer, remove and then wash off the paint, reverse or put the side that just had the paint on it against the lure on the opposite side. Spray your paint, dry, and then remove and wash paint off vinyl stencil with water and a stiff brush in a small pan. When I make the stencil I put the pattern on by using a sharpie pen. Then lay it on a piece of tempered glass and cut it out using a razor knife. One stencil will last for alot of lures. One other big reason I like the vinyl is that even if your lure is hard to get the stencil to fit, you can warm it up with a hairdryer and stretch it tight to fit. Just don't over heat it or you could ruin your paint job on the lure. I hope this helps out. Ken
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Hey there, I've never used the type of air brush your using but I would definitely think most any paint will work if properly thinned. You need to thin the paint to a milk like consistancy. It has been my experience that every color needs to be thinned different. Its just a matter of trial and error and it won't be long once you try it out. Also the air pressure varies on different colors. Hands on is the best teacher. Once you give it a try you will be amazed at the different color combo's you will come up with. Usually when I get to the painting part I actually don't know ahead of time what color I am going to paint a lure unless its a custom order. The one thing that I can't express enough is to make sure to clean your airbrush very well after each and every use. I hope this helped you out and if you have anymore questions, feel free to email me or post away as there are alot of talented people on this site that are willing to help you out.
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I am using envirotex lite. Its alot of work and takes along time to set up but I like the end results. Thanks and good luck. Ken
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jgrick, yes I use pvc pipe to hold the lures. In the wood wheels I drill a hole to hold pvc end caps. I then screw them tight offcentered so they can't turn on you. On the other end of the pvc pipe I pound in a short piece of wood dowel. Then drive a finishing nail into the dowel. Grind the head end to a nice taper and you can install your lure where the back eyescrew goes later on. Hope this helps.. Ken
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I used a small 110v synchronous motor that I took out of an old Micro wave oven. Make sure its 110v. They are marked on the back of the motor. Then I had someone turn a shaft adaptor for the size of the motor shaft on one end and the wheel holder which is a cut off carriage bolt with a wingnut to hold it tight. Under the shaft coupler I glued a V block to help support the wheel. Also you have to make sure you keep the wheel load balanced as this is a small motor. Any questions, feel free to ask. I hope this helped. Ken.
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Hey Goldenshinner, yes by rotating the lures end over end that keeps the clearcoat from sagging down to one end. Works great.
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I tried to upload a few pictures of my portable drying rack but I keep getting an error message. Not sure what I am doing wrong. Ken
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Donnie, PM me your email address. Mylures
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I got an email from Jerry a short time ago that he found the original disc that I sent to him and he was going to repost it. I know he is very busy so it may just take alittle time. Thanks for your interest. If this doesn't happen I will have to somehow take the time to make a new one. I have made a few changes since the last one which works abit better. Keep in touch. Ken Schmitz Mylures
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These are made from pine. They are a topwater buzzbait. All HD SS hardware is used. Triple ring 220 pound test split rings. The hooks are either 3/0 or 5/0 VMC 3x conecut trebles. The rear hooks are hand tied. This bait features a duel chopper props for a good sound in the water. One prop is right turn and one is left turn for maximum noise.
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This is a jointed Magnum MuskieBurger. They are a shallow diving crankbait. They go from 5-7 feet and have a slow natural swim to them. The baits are made from hard maple, the lips are made from lexan. All hardward is HD SS. The split rings are triple ring 220 pound test. The hooks are VMC 3X conecut trebles. The rear hooks are hand tied.
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This is a 3 jointed shallow diving crankbait. It dives from 5-7 feet and has a slow natural swim. The bait is made from hard maple, the lip is made from lexan. All hardware is HD SS. The rear hook is hand tied. The triple ring split rings are 220 pound test. The hooks are VMC 3X conecut 5/0 trebles.
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I got an email from Jerry and he found the original disc that I sent to him. He will repost when he has a chance. Thanks Ken Schmitz (Mylures)
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Hey Jerry, glad to see you up and running again. We go way back to TM when it first started. You have a great site and thanks for all the hard work. You may have lost alittle but will gain alot. You have alot of talented people here and this is a great site. Merry Xmas and again thanks. Ken Schmitz