RiverMan

I spray at about 45 PSI...........yes you can use less than that but at 45PSI you can just set it and leave it. Learning to use an airbrush is a slow process so be patient. Keep your brush very clean all the time, clean it between colors, don't overtighten anything, be extremely careful with the needle and use water based paints so you can wash them off when you make mistakes. jed

Hey Husky, tried it and you are right, works good. I had some latex gloves so I cut off 4 fingers on one of them and just slip the finger piece over the finger I need to apply the epoxy, works great, easy clean up, very cheap. Jed

I have used syringes and they do work. The only problem I ran into was that the rubber seal over time in the syringe begins to get damaged. What kind of screw are you using for the "self tapping" tap the keg method? thx. Jed

I use an Iwata but bubbling generally means the cap at the end of the brush is loose....try gently tightening it. Don't overdue it! Just snug, I tighten mine finger tight. Jed

My wife is going to have a heyday with this one, headed for the Saran Wrap. thx. Jed

I have tried the water based clears and in my humble opinion they aren't even close to satisfactory. The only CC's I have found that work so far are the epoxies (etex, devcon, etc.) and some spray on auto clears. Jed

I know of another guy that does the same thing but have never tried it. Where do you get the gloves? jed

This is a good idea and worth a try. Jed

The dimples are caused by one of two things, either you aren't putting the devcon on heavy enough or you are contaminating it with your fingers. After you prime the lure, don't touch it with your bare hands.....I wear latex gloves. If you do accidentally touch it, clean it with a new paper towel and rubbing alcohol. It took me months to figure this out years ago.......used to drive me crazy! RM

It has more to do with the physics of the resin than anything. I can make almost any wood shape walk the dog but take that same shape and mold it out of solid resin and it's almost impossible. You can get them to work "ok" but not great.....it's really weird. Maybe vodkaman can explain why this is....................I have made lures of wood that work perfectly. Mold them, then make a resin blank that weighs the exact same amount as the wood version and it won't work at all. Jed

When I first started building lures years ago I found it very difficult to get any help. At that time no one on TU was talking about building musky gliders.....my lure of interest. So after several years of building and learning, experimenting, I began to understand a few things about gliders and I made a point to try to always help others. In the last five years or so I recieve about two emails a week from builders asking questions. So here is my pet peeve............ I work long days and like everyone else my time is valuable and yet at the end of the day I will always sit down and answer questions. Sometimes it can take me 20 minutes to write a response to someone on exactly what sealers to use, how to clear coat, woods, balancing, etc. In about 80% of the cases, the guys never write me back to say "thanks". Not a simple "got it", or "appreciate it", or "thanks".............nothing! They just take the information and are gone. Some of them will write back a week later or so and ask for clarification on something and then again............nothing. I will still help builders on TU, I love this site, but after answering questions for years through email I am about done with it. It's literally "a thankless job". Jed V.

My experiece has been the same............you can get them to work "ok" but not great. I have built several gliders from molds and although they will work none of them have been nearly as good as some of the wood gliders I have built. Jed

I guess that depends on how you define "properly". There are hundreds of gliders out there being made but only a few that really work well in my humble opinion. You can get almost any shape and any wood to to work at some level but only some shapes from some woods will work really well! Body shape is important, round bodies will generally glide wider than flat sided baits. The width of the wood is very important, too thin and it's hard to get it to glide. Weighting is also impt............I generally use some lead in the front and some in the back although not always. Experiment.................and keep notes. RM

Here is one I built with four pieces. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFfpxfxsHms

You need at least four pieces if you want a nice sinuous motion. RM

The chinese often use willow. The walk the dog concept behind the Lunker Punker is an idea that has been around forever.................I fished spooks 30 years ago. You can easily make basswood or western red cedar do the same thing. RM

I find it odd that Dick Nite himself isn't actively looking for a solution to the storage problem. I have given up on DN for the time being because I got tired of losing so much of it. I was able to use maybe 20% of what I purchased. It is a good coating but dealing with the storage is a major hassle. Jed

The dimples are caused by one of two things, either you aren't putting it on thick enough or you are handling the lures after painting them. Once you primer your lures, don't touch them with you bare hands. The oils on your hands will cause the dimpling you are referring to. I wear latex gloves after I prime the lures. Use syringes to measure out the etex, mix it in a small dixie cup and make sure you get the edges and the bottom. Mix slowly for about two minutes. Brush the etex on making sure you get some of it everywhere. If you get too much on it will want to drip off, if you don't get enough on, it will leave dimples. Etex is a wonderful coating and very easy to use..........you just have to get used to it. One other thing, if you accidentally touch a lure after priming, clean it with rubbing alcohol on a clean paper towel before painting. The alcohol will clean off the oils from your fingers. RM

Thirty feet is deep on a cast for any lure! If you want to get a bait like the hyper herring that deep I would put a one/two ounce casting weight in front of it with a 12" leader and go for it. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0002176312426a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntt=trolling+weights&Ntk=Products&sort=all&N=0&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1 If you are going to troll them you might also consider a diver. I use these for salmon and they work really well. http://www.cabelas.com/p-0000051110139a.shtml RM