RiverMan

With oak you will definitely need to predrill. Put another one just above or below the one that snapped, you should be ok. RM

I have bent it by placing it in the oven for a few mins. Start at 200F and go up slowly. Watch the stuff closely and at some temp you will see it start to go soft and at this point you can easily bend it. Be careful though because it will begin to bubble on the surface if it gets too hot. RM

Cool stuff, good idea.

Shape your lure, add weight, then dip twice in sanding sealer. Next dip the lure in a white primer, let dry, paint, and clearcoat. RM

What about the straps that are used on a boat trailer winch? That stuff is tough! Maybe it is too thick though? Just thinking. Jed

I'm surprised the inner-tube didn't hold up for you Joe.........that stuff is tough! Good info. Jed

Yea, what Vodka said...............he took the words right out of my mouth!! Jed

Time for an experiment...........sounds like a good idea.

That's the first I have heard about syringe problems, interesting. I buy mine at a local farm feed supply store and have never had a problem at all. They don't appear to have any lubrication on them though. jed

I tried the plastic cup sealer a couple years back and personally don't feel it is worth the hassle. If water gets past your outside clearcoat you are probably doomed so why bother with the plastic cups? I would suggest you use two coats of sanding sealer then a good white primer. If you want something better than sanding sealer, use a coat of etex as your sealer, then prime, paint, then another coat of etex. Jed V.

Etex is a wonderful clearcoat and superior to D2ton in my opinion. If you are measuring with syringes, stirring throroughly including the bottom and edges for a few minutes, and then applying, you should have no problems whatsoever. I'm curious, is the unused portion in the dixie cup fully cured? If not in then it must be a bad batch. If so, then it is likely a result of something with the wood, the sealer, paint, etc. I have done a ton of lures with etex and have yet to have the problem you are describing. If the problems continue, get another batch. Jed V.

My experiments have shown the same thing. If the last piece of the lure is too long and rigid it kills all the action. Jed

Here is it right with all the other fishing weights.

I can get it locally here in Oregon at Wal-Mart but it is popular here for steelhead fishing so I'm not sure you can get it everywhere. RM:sauced:

I take that back, just checked and the one I am using I lost half of it.

My baby-food jars are working good so far.

Hi Mark...... If you watch a live fish swimming they really don't have all that much body movement unless they are swimming very slowly. At really slow speeds the body movement is an exagerated left to right action much like the swimbait in the video. At high speeds, the body of a live fish is more steady with just the tail going more like a Hudd. I'm not sure what vortices have to do with the motion but it makes sense that a bait with more joints and therefore more flex will provide a more sinous motion. I have found with my swimbaits that if I want a nice sinous motion at low speeds I need more sections. Three sections look great at medium to high speeds, four or more sections for slow speeds. I guess mostly I just like the way a more sinuous lure looks in the water. Jed