RiverMan

I have tried DN's for musky lures..........didn't like it at all. RM

Corey, Good to see you back again. Stick with the two part expoxies, they cannot be beat so far. I still use the same old disposable brushes with the bristles and it probably takes me two minutes per lure to get two coats on which I don't think is too bad. I have tried and tried to find a clear coat that I can dip with no success. In my humble opinion and no disrespect to others that like it, Dick Nite stinks to high heaven and goes on too thin. Component System also goes on too thin and isn't hard enough to provide good protection. I have also tried spray can lacquer and a sprayable car finish, too thin also. I considered a UV cure epoxy, tried one but it took too long to set up. If you have the money for the expensive lights this might be the best option for production. Jed

I would not recommend it....I tried it and had problems with it eventualy. It goes on very thin but even after 3 coats it can easily be damaged allowing water to reach the paint underneath. Jed V.

I looked into UV cured epoxies some time ago and the cheapest light of a proper size and quality I could find was $1000. The other problem with UV lights is it is not good for them to be turned off which leads to other problems related to UV exposure. If you leave the light on all the time you are reducing its life and increasing the liklihood of exposure. One company told me their product would set up in 15 mins with standard UV lights from the hardware store..........tried it, didn't work. What I would want is something that I can dip the lures into and hang them to dry. I get sick of having to mix epoxy, it is time consuming and a mess. The clear also needs be very safe, dry water clear, rock hard, low odor, and not too thin. I would prefer it go on about as thick as etex and dry in about 2 hours. Price would of course have to be competitive. RM

I have built hundreds of gliders from poplar without a single problem of any kind. Poplar is tough! Keep mind that many top gliders and cranks are built from western red cedar (hughes river for one) which has 1/4 the strength of poplar. RM

What air brush are you using? I don't ever thin the createx I use and I shoot everything at 45 PSI. The only time I have the problem you are mentioning is if the tip has some paint on it. I simply wipe if off with a Q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol and go for it. If you get a few specks down into the other color that's ok, it will still look nice and natural. You probably already know this but keep in mind that the distance your brush is from the lure will effect the pattern also. My guess is that most of your problem is the result of your brush. RM

There is nothing more realistic than a swmbait........... Jed

Sounds like it just needs more weight to me. When you try to force it underwater the bait is fighting to stay on the surface which is causing the weird action. Do all the joints feel smooth and move easily? If so, add weight but keep the weight forward in the front two sections. RM

Why would you thin the bill down......just leave it at 1/8th inch. RM

You can easily still move the screw eye..just twist it loose and move it. Once you find the location that works best fill in the old ones with wood filler or bondo. I would guess you will get more movement by adding another joint than you will be moving the tow point. Cut the tail piece in half and add in another joint making it a 3-piece lure. jed

I tried several types over the years and the one I like the best is a pen used by surveyors. The ink from this pen won't run even if water is run over the top of it. I buy them at a local craft shop........look for one, they come in different tip sizes. RM

I have done the same thing lots of times Jamie, making the bait over again is a good thing. I'm a perfectionist so more often than not I would just toss the lure and build it again! RM

Just use a light wood like poplar or basswood and go easy on the weight. Then set your bill at a steep angle so it won't dive very deep.......look at other shallow diving cranks to get an idea of the angle you need. RM

If you ever drop a bait like that again, get some paper-towels and wipe all the etex off and then set it aside to dry. When the bait is dry, you can primer it again and repaint or just etex over the top again. Make sure you are wearing gloves to keep the etex off your skin. Great looking lure you have there, I like the shape, you are doing a nice clean job. RM

Basswood is hard to beat, it is a wonderful wood. I also like poplar which is easy to obtain about anywhere. RM

I have never had the swimbaits I build "jam", every once in awhile there will be a slight "hitch" in the action but they don't ever stick. Are you sure the hooks aren't causing the problem? Work the lure back and forth as if it were in the water, do you see it sticking? If so correct the problem by allowing more room, take some wood off, enlarge the gap. You don't need very much body twist to get a nice sinuous action. By the way I like your drawings, well done. RM

beautiful

Cool!!

Just a suggestion, you might try bringing the sections closer together to hide the gap between them. Turn in the screw eye on one or both sides and you will still get plenty of flex in the lure. As it is now, the tapering you added to each side isn't doing you much good because the sides don't touch anyway. You could probably lose 30% of the flex you have and still get fantastic lure action. good luck....

If you get it too warm this will happen. Take some etex and put it in the micro for 20 seconds, pull it out and you will have a diamond! lol

Choose the shape you want, trace it out on a piece of 3/4" wood....not any narrower. Cut it ou with a scroll saw or band saw. Router the edges with a roundover bit or a flat wood file, sand. Decide where the hooks will go, mark and drill a pilot hole. Use two weights, one an inch from the front, one an inch or so from the back. Melt the lead in with a propane torch, be careful, wear eye protection and don't get the hot lead anywhere near water. put the hooks in, drop the lure in a bucket of water. The lure should sink stead and level. Once you get the right amount of lead let dry overnight. Fill the weight holes with plaster, woodfiller, epoxy putty, or bondo, sand smooth. Dip the lure in a sealer, I like sanding sealer or polycrylic...let dry overnight. Dip in a white primer, dry overnight. Paint, let dry overnight. Two coats of clear. Done deal. Jed V.

The stuff I bought is stainless steel and I bought it at a welding shop. RM

I didn't build any of these but I am definitely a fan of the "banana lure". These are all kwikfish in the 15 and 16 size that I use for chinook. Kwikfish are a wonderful lure, very stable in heavy current and yet they will still wobble when the tide has barely turned. The lure that is white with spots is killer! I love the lures you are making diemai, particularly those without a lexan bill. You are definitely patient but I am sure the slow process is what you enjoy the most. Jed V.

If you can make a shape that looks that nice with a dremel you could do it with other tools just as well. Next time you might try a flat wood file, that's what I like to use and it really goes fast. I have completely worn the edge off of several files over the last few years, I just enjoy watching the wood take shape. Use the dremel for the details, eyes, gills, etc. You did a beautiful job on this lure.......well done. RM