RiverMan

Maybe we lost our thread about the foamboard in the last shut down? I can't seem to find it. Anyway, I wanted to try some and I am making the long trip toward Home Depot today.....it's 60 miles from here! I live in the sticks! Anyway, some have said it's difficult to find, any tips would be most appreciated!! Thank you!! jed v.

Buy some balsa and make your own...it's fun. RM

Hey FF, ask him if it's possible to repair the seals just inside the front end of the brush. Iwata has told me it's not worth it. jed

All woods have trapped air in them ernel, some worse than others. Hard maple will hardly ever bubble while other more porous woods like poplar and WRC tend to bubble some. One thing that helps is to keep the drying temperature about 75F. If you get into the 80 and above range the wood wants to expand and out comes the air creating bubbles. RM

Dean has it right. I use syringes that you can buy at animal feed stores to measure the etex out.....they are about a dollar each. I mix the etex in disposable plastic dixie cups from Wal-Mart.....a penny each. Mix thoroughly!!! Take your time, get the edges, get the bottom, etc. I have done thousands of baits and not one of them has been "uncured". Keep in mind tho that it dries a bit slower than Devcon. RM

It's hard to avoid pinholes. I like to first seal the bait with sanding sealer...two or three dips, let dry. Then if you want to use the Devcon next that's fine, put a coat of it on full strength, let dry. If you get a couple pin holes just fill them up with some plaster, let dry, sand smooth, then go to paint. jed v.

I have read where guys will take two equally thick pieces of wood and temporarily stick them together. Trace your lure shape on one side and cut it out, round corners, shape. Now snap apart the two pieces and trace your through wire design on the inside of each piece of wood. Dremel out the channel on each side, lay the wire in and glue the two pieces permanantly together with epoxy. Add weight, sand, and you are done. I think most of the more experienced "thru-wire" guys have devised a way to drill fun length through the wood blank. They do this in one of two ways: 1. They use a lathe that has a drill bit attached to one side that drills directly through the center of the wood piece every single time, or; 2. Using a drill press. Put a piece of wire slightly longer than your lure in the drill press. Now, secure a wooden base with a nail in it to the drill press table. The nail should line up exactly with the tip of the wire. Now remove the wire, install your drill bit, and put one end of the lure on the nail. Now you can be sure that when you drill down through the wood that it will exit right at the nail...you checked this with the wire. Once you have a hole through the full length of the bait, you can drill the belly wire holes out. Make a loop in the belly wire pieces and thread the full length piece from nose to tail through the loops and then secure on each end with a loop. Fill all the holes with epoxy. You can learn how to make the loops by doing a search on "striper forums"...striped bass fisherman know how to make these loops. Or.... 3. Use screw eyes, lol. RM

Save your money, I bought one and it didn't work very well. First of all the roller is too thin and it's difficult to push the roller down hard enough to where the scales show up well. You can get a better pattern by using various other surfaces to run over the foil over. RM

Yes....congratulations, you now own a real airbrush. The following information I received from the Iwata maintenance folks in Portland, Oregon. 1. Don't use any harsh solvents on it........this will ruin the internal seals. 2. There are three seperate pieces on the front that are threaded. Under all of those is a bullet-shaped piece that fits over the end of the needle, be careful of this piece. 3. When you clean the airbrush, take off the back barrel, loosen the knurled knob then carefully pull the needle out through the back. Clean off the needle being very careful not to bump the tip of the needle on anything. Now when you reassemble the brush reverse the way the needle goes in......start at the front of the brush and push it toward the back. It's done this way so that you don't accidentally damage the point of the needle while trying to push it forward. Anyway, push the needle from the front to back. Push the needle in far enough to where you can put the bullet piece back on the front and then the three remaining threaded pieces. 4. Now gently push the needle forward from the back of the brush....push just hard enough to where you feel it stop against the bullet piece........DON'T keep pushing or you will flare the bullet and ruin it. 5. I disassemble the brush every time and clean it with hot water. Once you get the needle out and all the attachments you can use small dental brushes (available at any store) or pipe cleaners to clean in further. You will quickly get used to this brush and love it!! I ruined mine and bought something similar but wouldn't hesitate to buy another. Good luck! RM

I deleted some of the messages Jerry.....thx for the help. jed

By pitting I mean small holes in the surface Dan. jed

I have heard of folks having a considerable amount of trouble with it "pitting" and it requires a "de-gas" period too as I understand it. Have you noticed any of these problems? jed v.

Eric, I have a small bandsaw in my garage that you can have if you want it. I upgraded and the saw is just sitting there collecting dust. jed v.

Bummer, oh well, must have been time to clean things up a little! jed v.

For some reason my inbox says "100% full" again...even tho it only has 11 messages. jed v.

Anyone successfully made a Trap from wood? Jed V.

I wish the Createx paints would do a better job of covering...that is my main complaint. Jed V.

Welcome to the world of airbrushing....shoot straight createx at 40-50 psi and most of your problems will go away...assuming of course your compressor and brush are functioning. jed v.

Anyone know what the stuff is called at Home Depot? I was there and wasn't able to identify the "lexan" for certain. Will it only say "polycarbonate"? Jed V.