RiverMan

Following up on a couple contacts now guys, thank you for the help! jed v.

This evening I had the pleasure of speaking with a gentlemen that lurks at this site often. He has apparently posted several times but for the most part chooses to just read what others write. The thing is that this guy has an amazing amount of woodworking experience that would really prove helpful to others here including myself. He has techniques that I have never read about at TU. He told me that he generally doesn't like to post because many of the "experts here have their own opinions on things". If I am one of those people I apologize! Please lurkers, if you have something to say chime in!! There is always "another way" and "a better way". Jed V.

The first coat of Devcon is not necessary. Use two dips in the sanding sealer and then one in a white sealer/primer. Jed V.

I am looking for someone to cut lure blanks and was wondering if anyone here would share a source with me. I know about Zelinski and the Ebay connection cutter....looking for someone else. One lure must be identical to the next...I am very picky! If you have a source please let me know. Thank you! jed v.

The problem you are having is not with the primer. You don't need to sand between coats of paint...I have no idea where this came from. You also don't need to sand between coats of clear...not sure where that started either (etex or devcon). Paint, let dry overnight, then clear. If you are in a hurry, have a hairdryer handy and run it on low between coats. Watch the paint, when it goes from shiny to a dull color it's dry enough for the next coat. Water-based paints can be harder to spray and they dry slower but they are easier to clean up and safer to use. Jed V.

I tried the Durhams and it is good but is so hard it can be hard to shape once it's dry. I use plaster paris, cheap and works great. Make sure you mix it kind of thick so that it doesn't "settle" too much in the holes. Let it set up over night then sand to smooth. jed v.

It's a common problem with the Charlies....stay away from them, they are poorly made. Jed V.

Maybe it's that second base color coat you are using Woodieb8. I generally use hard maple but I prefer to work with Mahogany. By the way, Woodieb8 is right, stay away from the mahogany from africa, it has the consistently of a solo cup! Junk. Jed V.

That's a bummer! I had the same problem with wood...specifically poplar! Hope you get things figured out, if not go to hard maple and forget about bubbles forever. jed v.

The only thing I don't like about mahogany is that it's quite grainy. Even after primer it can often be difficult to hide the wood grain. I tried foam one time and can't really say for sure if I like it because I didn't stay with it long enough. The beauty of foam as I see it is that the lures would have a perfectly consistent shape and weight from one to the next. However, as far as time is concerned, I can cut out a musky lure from mahogany or maple and have it ready to go to the weighting stage in about 10 minutes...that's going to be pretty hard to beat even with foam. jed v.

For topwater? Basswood. For cranks, I would go with the Woodie's suggestion honduras mahogany or poplar if you can avoid the bubble trouble. jed v.

Those are beautiful baits Dan. jed v.

Great looking lures, do they swim ok? jed v.

I believe the front of the package on the long cure Devcon says "two ton" on it. Jed V.

What an amazing swimmer, wow! Some of the swimbaits have an action that is just incredible. jed v.

Very nice........you put a crazy amount of work into that lure. jed v.

I am wanting to try some water based Testors paints. Does anyone have a source for them that they are happy with? I found a few sites online but they have a very poor color selection. Any help much appreciated. Thank you. Jed V.

Sounds like good stuff....this is one I haven't tried. RM

I love the paint, beautiful job! Beause the lure is short and relatively tall from back to belly it wil be more of a darting bait than a big glider. I am guessing you can get this bait to almost turn completely around if you want it to. I like darters better anyway as I think they look much more realistic than say a wide glider like a manta. Have you given it a try? Jed V.

Beware of using AutoAir with Etex because it reacts in a bad way. Stick with createx. jed v.

Looks like you have a great start. Just my humble opinion, why use thru-wire? I would guess the weight you have near the front might be a bit light too particularly with basswood, maybe skeeter or blades will chime in here. jed v.

If the bait is falling level then it's weighted correctly. If it still wants to come to the surface that's odd unless you don't have it falling fast enough. The eye placement is generally more critical on topwater baits. My guess from what you have told me is that you are going to have to change shapes for your bait....don't let this bother you, there are a million options for lure shape. The last thing I would try is to move the eye up...when I say up I mean toward the back of the bait. Camel, I have turned the front screw eye vertical and horizontal and could tell no difference in the action. jed v.

You shouldn't be using a specific amount of weight for your gliders, all must be tested individually. I test every single one of my lures to make sure they remain level while they sink. Asumming the lure is falling level your problem is one of two things: 1. Your screw eye is a bit too high; 2. The lure isn't heavy enough. jed V.

Man that is sharp, great job!! jed v.

Cool!