RiverMan

I have a drawer in my garage (my shop) in which I have tossed "reject baits" over the last few years. The drawer eventually filled entirely up and since that time I have tossed the bad ones in the garbage, in the corner, etc. The rejects were thrown away for a variety of reasons, some wouldn't swim, some the paint wasn't right, some had a horrible finish, etc. Anyway, I emptied the drawer into a 5-gallon bucket this morn and they barely all fit, dumped them on the floor and took a snap-shot. So if you are struggling with the 1st or 41st lure you have built, you are not alone, welcome to world of hard-bait building!! It's a blast! Here is a link to the picture: http://photobucket.com/albums/c48/RiverMan1/?action=view&current=junk.jpg jed v.

Great looking lure. I am curious too, since gliders "glide" then pause, glide, pause, I am wondering how well the tail wobbles. jed v.

Yea, makes one wonder why it can be so difficult to trick something with a brain the size of a pea! jed

Woodie I am assuming you are using WRC? jed

Here's another: http://icefishing.outdoorsfirst.com/play_flash.asp?clip=487

I still use it for topwater lures....western red cedar. Basswood is good too. Eastern red like the stuff they make hope chests from is good wood for sinking lures. Jed V.

http://icefishing.outdoorsfirst.com/play_flash.asp?clip=486

I'm pretty sure it actually said "bikini bait company"....people get my name mixed up with S.Hoor all the time!!!! jed v.

We have discussed materials such as this several times on the board. I am surprised to be honest that the topic isn't brought up more often. Many of the plastics available to us now are superior in most ways to wood and similar in cost to the more expensive hardwoods. Plastic doesn't shrink or expand, is impervious to water and therefore doesn't require a sealer, generally comes in a variety of colors including white and therefore doesn't require a primer, and can be shaped, drilled, etc. The downside is that many of the plastics are quite heavy and therefore won't make a good topwater. I have made baits from HDPE which is the stuff that cutting boards are made from and it works fine. Let me know what you find out Woodie, sounds interesting...thanks for posting the info Cliff. jed v.

Cliff, Does it float or sink? thx. jed

There are lots of sources but keep in mind they are nearly all copyrighted. It's ok to use them for yourself but if you intend to sell them you must have permission from the owner. jed v.

I don't think either of them have a whole bunch of maintenance. One thing to consider tho is weight, the 4-stroke will be much heavier. I have a two-stroke Yamaha kicker (8HP) that mixes at 100: 1 and has been a wonderful motor...think it's a 1999 or 2000 model. I change the plug about once per year and the lower unit oil twice a year, that's it. It has run like a champ for 5 years. My big motor is a 140 Suzuki 4-stroke and it's a great motor too but I am not taking it on and off the boat, lol. If you plan on carrying the motor much to prevent theft I would look seriously at the two-stroke...just my humble O-pin-yun. jed

Do not thin the createx.....it should spray fine. jed

Thanks for the info. jed

I think I learned this from Skeeter. Take your scale material and put it into an embroidery hoop. http://www.joann.com/images/catalog/C/A/K/021/p_CAK021-d.jpg Lay the bait flat on a table, lay the hoop over it with the neeting on the downside of the hoop. Hold the hoop steady so that it cannot move. Spray through the hoop with light strokes two or three times. Very carefully lift the hoop so as to not touch the painted lines......perfect. You can buy an embroidery hoop at Wal-Mart for 1.00; the one I am using has about an 8-10 diameter. Yeehaw!!! Jed V.

Do you have a pic of a bait coated with it? And, how are you applying it? Jed

The only thing that scares me is your mention of the "slight amber".....I like a "crystal clear" water-like finish. RM

For what it is worth I have found that I make better cuts with a blade is that is not too thin. This goes against what some others will tell you here but keep in mind that I am cutting out musky baits. If you are working with bass lures the smaller blade might be better for the tight radius corners. Here is a little tip too that has really improved my cuts that someone shared with me some time ago. Trace out the lure and cut right on the outside edge of the line. By doing so you can see if you have moved away or toward the line. Once the bait is cut out then go to your belt sander/drum sander, and even out the areas that aren't perfect. Jed V.

Jerry, I voted for the "I don't need no stinkin store" just because I have my own web page. If I didn't have a page tho I would most certainly favor a store....I still think it's a good idea, particularly if the info is passed around some here and there so guys know it's available. Jed V.

Yea it is cool isn't it, something about flying along in a boat on a small river, like a carnival ride. I have never fished the Smith, heard many good things about it tho, have fun! Jed V.

Those are as nice as I have ever seen, wow. Jed V.

Shane, If you can't get it figured out write me and I will help. jed

I bought mine at Wal-Mart in the kitchen gadget section for about 20 bucks. It weights in pounds, grams, tenths of grams. Jed V.

Savacs, Yes you can attach the weight with elastic but I don't do this anymore because the action of the lure with weight held in this way is not the same as if it's in the wood itself. Jed V.

Savacs, Yes you can attach the weight with elastic but I don't do this anymore because the action of the lure with weight held in this way is not the same as if it's in the wood itself. Jed V.