RiverMan

Lapala, I think there are several factors to consider when choosing which type of hook to use. I personally have found the single siwash on the back to be considerably "more" effective than trebles on "some baits", the heddon tadpolly being one of them. This bait rarely misses a steelhead strike with a single hook, it's quite amazing. Other baits, particularly those that are a bit wider may indeed have a reduced hook ratio as PC has mentioned with the singles. I'm guessing this is a result of the fish having their mouth open wider to accomodate the increased size of the bait when they kick free from it...mouth is open wider and thus it misses the single as the bait leaves his mouth. It may be possible to improve the hook ratio of fat baits with singles by moving the hook back just a bit further. By doing so the fish will have closed his mouth a bit further after kicking the bait free and should result in more hook-ups. From what I have read fish that "slash" from any angle like musky and bass are more likely to hook up well on trebles while fish that approach the bait from the rear like salmon, trout, and steelhead will hook up very well on singles. By the way I always set up my singles so the point is pointing straight up! One other thing to consider is the speed at which the plug is fished. Last spring a friend and I were anchored on the Columbia River fishing for spring chinook with flatfish. He had changed out the back treble with a single siwash. This strategy had proven very effective a year before on fall chinook in which he went 7 for 7 with the singles. Anyway, over the course of several days he missed several fish with this set-up and we finally figured out that the current speed was so slow the single was hanging straight down instread of extending out. My point being if the plugs is moving fast enough and the hook is extended to where it needs to be I think you are more likely to hook the fish than if it's dangling somewhere below the bait. One other thing...there is a certain group of folks that feel two trebles on a bait actually make it easier for a fish to pull loose once it's hooked. The theory goes that the second hook provides the fish with a point of "leverage" to work with. Jed

I switched Corey maybe a month or two ago. The Bulls-eye as you know is just a sealer so then I had to go to a primer after that...another step I didn't want to do. So I started looking for something that included both the sealer and primer and also something that I could dip the baits into as I was tired of trying to spray them. Kilz is working just great for me thus far. Jed

Sounds like you are a "bit of a perfectionist" woodsac....so am I!! I'll tell you what, can't help ya with your question but that is one good looking bait my friend. Have you swam it? Jed

Hey welcome to TU and congratulations, those things are awesome!! jed

Larry, I think if you put two split rings on the belly and then put the treble on it would be about perfect. The important thing is to have the treble points just behind the end of the lure. Take a look at this hotshot which is very similar in shape. The other option would be to go to one single siwash off the back hanger and do away with the belly hook. The siwash hook should be pointing upward by again using two split rings and the the hook. This is how I se up all my tadpollies and man are they ever mean...if a fish takes you have him every time. Jed

I use a method that I learned from Funny Farm....a wooden dowel with a screw drilled into one end of it that then screws into the belly hook hole. I tried the x-acto knife idea and it works fine for small baits but won't hold large musky baits. jed

Welcome apb, those are some beautiful baits you have built. Jed

I'm curious, do you guys using Kilz thin it some as I do? I tried once without and it seemed to be a bit too thick. Another nice thing about the Kilz that I have found is it will actually dry in extremely cold temps. My shop is in the garage and it's not heated......yikes! Anyway, I dip the baits and then hang them with some newspaper underneath to catch any drips. After one day they are completely dry to the touch, even in 25 degree F weather! I then bring them inside and let them sit another 5-7 days or so in the warmth to insure complete drying. I have tried many other forms of primer/sealer and am the most happy with this method. The Kilz really sticks to the wood, hard to even scrape off with a knife and like I said above it has a somewhat plastic feature to it. Jed

Great looking baits! jed

I used a water-based product called Kilz and buy it in gallon jugs. I dilute it some with water and then dip each wooden bait in it and let it hang until dry. This stuff is really great, sticks to the wood fantastic and is somewhat plastic-like. In this way you have both a sealer and a primer and are ready to go to paint. Make sure you wait a few days after using the primer/sealer as you want to make sure it's complete dry. Jed

Yes we do that out here in Oregon on some Salmon Plugs. The other thing we do is use swivel chains, have you seen them? They are nothing more than a small chain that has a swivel on each end...I use them on all wiggle warts for salmon. Beyond that if you are worried about fish pulling loose try single siwash hooks instead of trebles.....get em with a siwash and they aren't coming off! I would show you some of my plugs but my scanner died yesterday! From what I have read I'ts important that the back hook on your plugs is about 1/2 inch behind where the lure body ends. It's thought by having it here it will maximize the liklihood of a solid hook-up.........goes like this. Imagine the fish taking the bait in his mouth. Once he realizes he's been had he will let the bait start sliding back out of his mouth. Once the bait leaves his mouth his mouth closes down at the tail of the bait and Wham!!! The hooks hit him!! I actually conducted an experiment on my ex-wife to prove this works and indeed it worked great, got her every single time! Jed

I have been thinking the same thing TBait. I have a friend that just went from a VL to the eclipse and says the difference is huge when it comes to spraying fine lines. He did say tho that unclogging it was more difficult with the Iwata and that it did still clog although not as often. If you do some shopping please let me know where you find the best prices. Thank you! Jed

Well I guess maybe some see it as an "argument", I see it as "discussion" and that is what this forum is about. So far as as "repetition" is concerned, what isn't repeated? You can probably find a hundred posts on how to weight cranks, cut out crank bills, paint choice, airbrush types, it goes on and on. Are we going to start censoring posts about each of these subjects next? This is how we learn, particularly newcomers to the site. I visit this site because I enjoy the people here and the topics but anymore I rarely see something "new", it's all been discussed over and over again, devcon and etex is no different. It should be left to the individual to read each of the posts and then decide which method he feels will work best for him. I think I visit this site as much as anyone and since the day it started I can only remember one or two times where things were a "bit abrasive". I suggest that when this occurs you delete the post rather than "ban" a subject. This isn't my site but it's my feeling that so long as people are not rude to one another let the discussion flow. Jed

Woodsac....the Devcon vs Etex issue has been on this board since the day it started. However, I don't ever remember it being "abrasive", it's just good ole fun. I like to tease some here about using Devcon and they in return tease myself and others back. I sincerely doubt that anyone here has hard feelings about someone else because of the "clearcoat they choose", lol. I have never seen it be an "argument" and in fact I have seen it lead to some very good discussions. So long as people aren't being "rude" to one another what does it hurt? The devcon/etex issue just adds some "personality" to the forum that is all. Lapala, I do think there is probably a "better" topcoat out there and I am surprised someone hasn't announced it yet in this forum. I've said it before.....I know of at least one builder that uses something else that is dry in 4 hours and is rock hard...he won't tell me what it is. In fact he just had a lure come back to him...the bait had been underwater a solid year and after cleaning off all the slime it was a clear as the day it left his shop. Lets keep looking. Jed

I am disappointed too. I was reading that Ebay did more than 800 million dollars in the first three quarters of 2004...guess that wasn't enough for them. I very much wish that a competitor would start up...this would keep Ebay honest. For you guys that have stores on Ebay I looked at that once too and didn't think it was worth it either.....Ebay dings ya on everything. I would suggest building your own web page as I did...it's very easy and cost me next to nothing per year. I don't advertise so Ebay has helped me in that regard. Jed

Tom, Use exact equal amounts of the two bottles. The stuff will be dry enough to handle in 8 hours or so but will take at least a solid day or two more before it fully hardens. jed

Keep after it woodsac, soon you won't be able to stop! jed

I would add to the list Lapala, "dry in one hour". Jed

I would agree with Skeeter, why compromise the quality of Etex by using a sub-standard product like Devcon with it! (oh that was too easy). jed

I generally let the etex set for 12-15 minutes after mixing before brushing it on. This allows most all of the bubbles to rise to the top and lets me put on thicker coats. If you are only finishing a couple baits at a time you can wait longer. Jed

I have never had this happen with Etex either. Are you measuring the amounts with a syringe? Jed

I drill all mine with a cordless hand drill by just eyeing it. The most important eye is the one in front, particularly for cranks. The hooks underneath and in the back are much less critical, don't worry yourself over it. Jed

Great idea, thank you for sharing! jed

You mentioned the wood being light FF...could this be a peg float? You know what I am talking about right? The hole these types of floats may or may not go all the way through, the line was held in place by "pegging" it in the float...just an idea. Jed

Seen this one Lincoya? Scroll down to the "video roar through indonesia"..this is down right terrifying! http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story2&u=/ap/20050110/ap_on_re_as/tsunami_video jed