Mercury

oh no Red's been brain storming again...... :-)

8 oz plastisol, 5 drops pumpkin seed 10 drops flo yellow ( yes add a touch of stabilizer) cook til ready to pour, Add 1/4 tsp med. black flake, dont forget 1/8 tsp pearl white.... Bon appitite` Jeff Alt recipie instead of using flo yello use chartreuce, then substutie the pearl white with green hi lite's Awsome golden green punkin seed!!!

The pics are taken. If you havent seen Coley's work just lookie here..........

My Lee pot will over heat the colors even with heat stabiliser in it. I went to the mictowave to stop it. Heat stabiliser is great for keeping the colors from changing with continued heating. So it could have been several things. The glitter like Chris was saying or the pot doing it.

When ever using florescent colors be it calhouns, LC or who ever I add heat stabilizers. If not the colors will change and not be so bright. Standard colors are no big deal, but bright colors are somthing else.

Gee I had just the opposit reaction. The plastic was not thin enough when melted I have to add about 1 - 1 1/4 cup softener per gallon. LC plastic (536) gets verry thin when its cooked, so it flows into thin mold cavitys easialy.

Coley if you want I will try to take a few pics of the work you did. My better half now wants to get into making spinners after seeing your work. BTW I will send you a few unfinished banannas so you can play a bit with them.

Man I have to tell you, I got a few spinners from Coley, and he can sure lay some paint down. Great job Coley! And I thought you were just into plastics.

And theyhave been "improved" since then! I thought they were a great looking product.

I have used a Q tip type swab, cut the shaft down to sometimes less than 1/2", and insert that into the plastic lure for some extra attraction. The cotton swab holds the scent longer and gives a more defined trail for actively feeding fish. Just like using the cotton balls for deer hunting. Just on a smaller scale. I have also thought about using a small "hole" that you would add a power bait into the bait too.

WidowMaker, Great tip. That can really speed things up. But let me ask you. Are you using worm oil with your plastics or are they just salted? Jeff

Check out mold sealers, and other previous posts. Tons of thoughts and comments in them

Pick up a candy thermometer at wal mart or your local grocery store. As long as it gets up to 400 or so degrees. If your plastic gets hotter than that you will know it.

THe detail is just as good as teh master. But it still has to have a sealer on it. I didnt like the plaster molds much since they are very brittle and easialy broken ahd I have a gorilla fist it seems when handeling the plaster molds. Strong cast that I picked up was in Michales crafts store. Same area as the plaster o paris stuff. 2 lb was 4.49. Personaly I think I like the watter putty better. It is easy to work with and more cost affective. 4.79 @ 4 lbs. Detail is great on it too.

I have done the silicon mold and used the cheepest silicon I could find. It never for like a maple syrup or white syrup for thickness. But it did get to be more smooth as far as a texture goes. Does that help?

I was working with strong cast, a product that would be better than plaster for molds. ( I thought) A 2 lb container was about 5.00. i was able to get 1 mold of 3 6" swim baits. even have about 1/4 of the container left. Mixed at a 2-1 ratio with water It is a heavier medium when set up. At first I thought somthing was wrong with it. Verry runny when mixed. But then it starts to set up and will do so after sitting for about a half hour. Over night it not only turns into a very heavy and solid mold, It is at least 3 times heavier than plaster. It feels very solid but still is porus. But not as bad as actual plaster. After I make a pour in it I will post a pic.

I have over heated plastics before and the glitter can and will shrink, deform and all but desolve.

Yes you do get the concave affect of the bigger baits. I have a 5" shad bait that I have to wach or it will do just that. My 6" dock slingers (slugg-o's) do it to on the thicker end.

Agreed , I have gotten away from the pots due to scorching the plastics and can do better with the microwave and hot plates. Jeff

I seen the banner with the fish protesting the tackleunderground, Man that is FUNNY! Fish picketing the website... Good going Jerry!

Hey Rob, I thought someone offered this tid bit up earlier, If you take somthing like modeling clay, push the lure down to the half way point,, Then when you add your casting material the lure will then be set to the correct depth. (dont forget the alignment pins) When the resin hardens up, remove the clay or what ever you were using, Use a release agent, put this on the face of the mold as well as the bottom of the lure. and the pins too. Pour on your top layer and poof. be careful with the resin, it is harder but also brittle. I hope that helps a bit. More info is on 2 part molds if you use the search feature,

Shoot mike, that bites.... Good luck on the job search. I know its not easy right now. And again thanks....

Well Chris for your sake I truely hope it doesnt cost you anything more than asprin. and just a few moments. Good luck on defending our baits name.

Basskat, if im not mistaken it is the resin that is poured on bar tops. He posted it earlier. Most places like Menards, home depo, etc should have it. How did the resin do as far as detail loss? I lost some with the epoxy, when brushed on. ( I have to admit I didnt thin it as much as others do)

You dont want to sell a exact duplicate of the senko, Gary has been sue happy just over the name, let alone the actual product. The Molds turn out great product and its up to you as the lure crafter to make it act like you want it to. Jeff