Skeeter

My experience has been that you should do the entire lure. For sharp edges, you can just touch sand them enough to take the sharp edge off. Skeeter

MBY, If I were you i would practice on an old lure. Skeeter

LMAO.....You have to admit.....it was both fun and entertaining. Skeeter

Just got done reading this whole post.....lot of stuff and thoughts. One person posted here in hard baits that they are here to start sharing everything that they have learned from the FB sites. Please start doing so sir. I am ready to learn. The Japanese did kick painting up a notch as far as looks. The lures are definitely pretty. It's just too bad that the paint doesn't stay on on the bait for long. I have baits that Tally and Coley made 9 years ago and they are stll holding up and look great. Many folks are here to help. I know that for a fact, because many have helped me. A lot of work goes into what they have suceeded and failed on. Personally, I feel if folks want to be a true craftsman they need to do the work too. I am always glad to help folks get over a hump or help with thoughts to get around a sticky problem, just not always give it away. It's just business. There are a few on this site that shoot more paint in a week than the rest of us do in a year. Many here have worked 60 hour weeks and still put the time in their shops to figure out how to make something work. I guess an old saying says it best.... "How bad do you want it?" Skeeter

Wrong Mark.....I give guys. For over 16 yrs. clearcoats have been a topic and and there is still no real agreement. You guys have at it. I agree.... BobP knows epoxy. My hat is off to him as well. Skeeter

Yes there are. Skeeter

Don't get me started Mark! Skeeter

Nice !! Skeeter

Let me save you the time. If you want tough and durability, nothing will beat devcon for the hobbyist. Skeeter

Bingo !! Many also use UV cured clears. These are much better. However they are cured by UV lights. It's expensive if you do it right. One of the most overlooked parts is the UV bulbs themselves. Their intensity degredates over time of use. Even though they come on, their original intensity is not there. The quality of the bulbs that you use is important. Unless you are doing a high volume of baits at a time it may not be worth the investment. Skeeter

As Bob said, most quick cure epoxy will turn yellow and set too quickly to level out. The reason is that the hardener is too hot. Skeeter

I just use gloss Minwax polyurethane. In a pint can. If it gets too old or not seald back correctly it spoils. Skeeter

All I do is put 2 coates of heavy polyurethane and then sand it smooth. Tis just keeps the paint from soaking down into the balsa and fading your colors. If you clearcoat with epoxy then this is about as good that it is going to get. Sanding a bait sealed with super glue or epoxy to get it ready for paint can be a lot of work. However it does seal the bait well. If you really want to make a balsa bait bulletproof then clearcoat the bait with epoxy, paint it, then clearcoat again. Lacquer will stick well to epoxy. Skeeter

Lately I have been doing a lot of reading on this because I can't seem to consistantantly get great flow even with the same brand of paint. One of the things that I have learned is that acrylic paints are the hardest to get a good consistant shoot. The reason is that the pigments are large. Not that you can't shoot well with it, but it is the most difficult. Additionally, how old, temp, humidity, and how you keep your paints will make a difference. Skeeter

I have used different types of clear coats. The bottom line is that there is nothing tougher than epoxy. Period. Skeeter

From reading this I gather that you want the entire bait to weigh 1/2 oz. So you have to make up the body of the lure and weigh that along with the hook hangers, hooks, and all split rings. Then see what kind of weight that you have left to play with. What I mean is, if your body and all of your parts come up to 1/4 oz, then you have 1/4 oz. left to play with for the ballast weight of your bait. No knowing what you are making is kind of tough. Some baits, such as jerkbaits, can have more than one weight. Personally, I would make the bait and get it to work properly, and then worry about the overall weight of the bait. Skeeter

Amazing isn't it Nathan. I started making baits when I was 40. I will be 61 in Feb. so I guess your are right. To me, it is a wonderful thing to have a hobby that carries on for so long which also results in such great friendships that last as well. Skeeter

I got out of making crankbaits for the past 2 yrs. I just plain got burnt out. I am going to get back at it again soon. What I have decided to do is make baits and just enjoy making them again. What I make is for sale if someone wants them. Anyone that really makes baits for sale can tell you is that you have to be there for your customers. Even if you aren't making baits at the time, you have to make yourself available in case someone needs something. This is especially true for pros or the truly dedicated. My phone blew up so much with calls that the fun went out of making the baits. When I got to the point that I was having trouble keeping up with demand I sat down and re-thought how to do business. For me, when I got to the point where most of my free time was ate up with making baits, the fun went out of it. So my new plan is to just make them when I feel like it. The fun needs to be put back into my hobby. That is one of the reasons that I started making baits in the first place. Skeeter

This site is the result of a few DEDICATED craftsmen that were tired of paying for crap. Eric gave many the first place to start. But it was Red that really made it reputable and the number one place on the web to learn. Red was probably the most dedicated person that I can remember. In my eyes he created this wonderful playground that we all enjoy. The dedication, skills, innovation, and the willingness to settle for nothing less than perfection gave this site the reputation that it has. I have always been thankful and proud to be a member of TU. I have learned much and made many wonderful friends. Skeeter

If you want something done right....... do it yourself. Build your own. Skeeter

Stop knocking your brains out on crap. Cut your losses and follow the advice of Woodieb8, Travis, and Bob P. There is a lot of wisdom and experience in those guys. Skeeter

Moving the line tie towards the bait will give a bait more action. The opposite for moving it toward the end of the lip. I use split rings because, to me, it allows the bait to swing more freely. It has no restrictions like the end of the curve and then hitting the flat sides of a snap. And like Hughsey said, rings are definitely stronger. If there is anyone on this site that knows how wiggle warts were made and why....... it is him. Take it to the bank. Skeeter

"If you use hand tools to shape lures you have to develop a sharp eye to keep them symmetrical and consistent. That just comes with experience." Words of wisdom there. There are many Crankbaits that are made by companies that have put out the money and paid the engineers to make them by automation are not as good as one that is made by a skilled craftsman. Their 'sharp eye" and "experience" is what makes them that exceptional. Look at the old Poes, Zoom, and Bagley crankbaits. Really look at the symmetry and the way that the screw eyes, ballast, and lips are installed. 95% is garbage, I don't care who makes them. I have always remembered one lesson that I learned many years ago. I was at David Fritts boat dealership. His tournament boat was there and I looked inside of it. There were probably 25 crankbaits laying in the floor of the boat. Many of them were vintage Bagley squarebills. Many of them would have fetched a pretty penny on Ebay. I looked at one of my friends that worked there and said how surprised I was that he left such expensive lures laying around out in the open like that. His reply was simple, "Believe me, if those baits were any good they wouldn't be laying there in the bottom of the boat." Money can kill you as a bait maker. The desire to make as many baits as you can to maximize your profits, will most of the time, result in taking shortcuts or downgrading they quality that you make by hand. Once that starts, you are on the way of loosing your reputation and you will soon go by the wayside like many before you. In my opinion, Greed is the number one killer of excellent work. You won't get rich making crankbaits, but you will have your name and reputation. Choose wisely. Skeeter

There has been a ton of innovation done on this site (some good and some bad). I don't recall when it ever stopped. To be quite honest, there are some on this site that bait companies should hire. Some of the best craftsmen in the industry are already here. So many come here to learn so that they can be the next deal. In my opinion, in order to shine, you have to be the whole package. You have to do it all and you have to be exceptional at all of it. It's not complicated. However, it is up to the individual to decide how far he/she wants to take it. Now especially, there are some really excellent crankbaits that are out there. The way that I look at it...... when you make a bait and put your reputation out there it better be exceptional or you won't last long. In my eyes, it does no good to take a bait to the average fisherman and watch him drool all over your beautiful crankbait. It is the opinion of your peers that counts. When you get approval of someone that really knows how to make crankbaits, and get an honest opinion, then you are getting somewhere. Skeeter

It was caused by air bubbles in your mixture of epoxy rising to the top and popping while curing. Skeeter