Skeeter

cranker, I have been using the VL for 5 yrs. It is a professional gun that will give you professional results. Air brushing is an art. It takes patience and time. If you are not getting the results that you want...... it isn't the fault of the gun. Skeeter

No, I did not make it. This plug knocker is the standard issue here in Lexington. They are not made any more. Fritts had Bass Pro Shops making them years ago. They were plastic coated. This is one of the originals that were sold here. They were not coated. Skeeter

I know it is dissappointing. But as you well know.... it is part of the game. This is the plug knocker that I use. Skeeter

It is my experience that overspray is caused by either not enough pressure or the paint not being thinned enough. Try jacking the pressure up to about 30 psi. and learn to shoot thin. On the paint try a 3:1 or 3:2 mix. 3 parts paint and 1 part thinner. The thinner in your case is water. If 3:1 doesn't get it then try 3:2. This is just something that you have to play with and learn. I have been shooting baits for 5 yrs. and still have my moments. Skeeter

Tim, Other than the FUSION.... what do you think was the lightest rod that you played with? I have never seen a Rogue. I see where they sell their blanks in catalogs, but I am not familiar with their rods. The old silver and purple Diawa light and tough were very light. So is the Gloomis and St Croix. I have also seen some of the new tour edition Quantum rods and they were very light also. Kistler is another rod that I have not had the pleasure of playing with. I want to build my own crankbait rod. I want the lightest blank that I can lay my hands on. What is your opinion? Skeeter

Most of these blades are just stamped out of aluminum and bent by some machine on the ends. I guess that they could be poured into a mold also. But those are just my thoughts. I have been throwing buzzbaits for over 18 yrs. There is really not much you can do about the blades wearing out. They do make plastic blades and they will not slop out as quick. But they do not make the noise that an aluminum blade will make. You can replace the rivit on the end with a glass bead. This will keep the back of the blade from wearing through. But some want the rivet because of the so called "squeal" that the bait can develop once the blade and the rivet wear into each other. But you still have the problem of the hole enlarging where the shaft goes through the holes on the blade. There is nothing you can do about this. The blades are cheap enough. I would just buy some extras and just replace them as you see fit. You can get them at Janns Netcraft of some other tackle parts place. Make sure that you get the rivets or some glass beads to go with them. Skeeter

Stickers are not a bad idea. I know of folks that have used them. Most dot their eyes or spray them with templates. You can use an old drill bit or something round and dip it into some latex house paint and just touch it on the bait. This will make a perfect circle for you. The latex house paint is good because if you make a mistake you can just wipe it off with a damp cloth and start over again. Also that type of paint won't splatter. Lacquer and some other paints get a bubble in it and will splatter when you dot the eye. You can't wipe that mistake off. Once lacquer or most acrylics are laid down it is there for good. Those that use templates to paint eyes use lacquer. You can shoot the eye and it will be completely dry in just minutes. With the latex, you have to give it a couple of hours to dry. The choice is yours. Skeeter

I have sent you a private message. I included an email address to someone that definitely knows. Skeeter

If you already have some grease on the washers, then I would just wipe them off with a dry cloth and put them back in and try it. I would not try any solvent on them. A little bit won't kill them. Test it out and see if the drag holds with the little bit of grease that will be left. If that does not work the get back in touch with me. I can get you the proper answer. Have you tried to email Shimano. I am sure that they would answer you. Skeeter

Normally the clutch realease has alittle grease on it. The clutch itself should have alittle grease also. If you get too much grease then it can sling around inside and get grease or oil on things that should not have it. Now if you are talking about the drag and the washers in the drag then I would leave them dry. On some reals Shimano will use some drag grease. But I am really not sure about the Curado. If you are going to fish for something that makes a long run then you might put just a Very Little dab on the washers. Otherwise I would leave them dry. I would use factory lubricants. Or you could use Quantum Hot Sauce or Yellow Rocket Fuel. I believe that the Rocket Fuel is made in England. I use the Quantum Hot Sauce grease. It is red and has tackifiers in it. This stuff is really slick and sticks to the gears. Do a search on the web for Yellow Rocket Fuel Oil. Skeeter

This is really nothing new. Years ago some guy was making tied hooks like the ones on a pop r and called them Doo Dads. He sold a bunch of them. Got so busy he quit making them. I still think alot more rests on having a well made crankbait and a good mind for locating the fish. If you present a crankbait properly to a fish that is in the mood, I don't think that the tail will make a difference. But like the pros use to say about fish scents for plastics....." It can't hurt". Skeeter

OK LP, it is my turn....... Forget about field testors. You should know whether the bait is good or not. There should be no flaws in your baits. If there is, then fix them. The biggest gripe that I have about bait companies and many bait makers is that the people that make the baits don't fish them. They do not take the time to really understand what makes a great crankbait. This is why many of the "hardcore" bait makers on this site get pounded with questions on "how exactly do you make your baits?" These people are just in it for the money and they are not willing to invest the time to really learn how to make a great bait and what a great bait should do. They will get some pro that has won money on spinnerbaits to test, give recommendations, and endorse crankbaits. This is garbage!! My thoughts are "What does this pro know about crankbaits?" You are the one that needs to know that the bait works and functions correctly. It is "your" job as a baitmaker to know what it takes to make the bait the best that it can be. Forget about guys that will take free baits from you, tell you stuff that you want to hear and walk away with your work for free. You put in alot of time and work at making your baits. You have the tallent and knowledge. Perfect it and make your baits with confidence. Once you do not question your work and the performance of the bait, then it is ready for others to use. There is no bias.... only fact. The bait is either right..... or it is not. That is my opinion. Skeeter

The reason that it peeled is because it is Latex paint. Latex is a rubbery substance. It does not really sand well. You can just touch sand it with fine sandpaper to knock off the sheen so that other paint may adhere better, but it is not really necessary. If you want to sand your basecoat then I would just use a plain flat white. Skeeter

BB, My suggestion would be that you start with a flat sided bait. Just find a picture of a flat bait that you like and trace it out. When you start "rounding" bodies it is very hard to keep everything straight. Do a search on the web for Flat Sided Crankbaits. You should get plenty of sites to get ideas from. I would start with balsa because it is very easy to work with and is very forgiving when you weight it. Then you could go to other woods if you would like. Skeeter

The problem is from the fact that lacquer has thinners in it. These thinners are what ate you enamel. Like Coley said.... you can shoot enamel over lacquer after it is dry. This is because the thinner has evaporated and is gone after the paint is dry. Coley's advice of using one type of paint is a good one to start with. Making these baits is not easy. It is hard to swallow when something messes up the bait. I would use a water based paint to learn with. But you can start with lacquer if you want. If you have any questions I would be glad to help you with a paint selection. Or as you have seen, Coley and the others are great for help also. Just let us know. Skeeter

What ????? Skeeter

Corey, Send me a PM or email. I live in Lexington and would be glad to help you. I have made a few crankbaits. Maybe I could help. Skeeter

Polycarbonate is actually what the stuff is. Lexan is the trademark name given to polycarbonate by General Electric. GE invented polycarbonate. You might also check glass shops. You do not want plastic, plexiglass, or acrylic. All of them will crack, especially in colder temperature water. Skeeter

They are beautiful!! I also like the colors that were chosen. Excellent work Coley. Skeeter

Bass Pro Shops has them in whatever size that you need. You don't get a mixture of sizes in the package. You get what you need. Skeeter

I only put one bait per section. But I have never had hook rash that bad. Get some hook protectors from Bass Pro Shops. They are very cheap. Skeeter

When I introduce people to the site, the picture of that lure is the first thing that they notice. They all look at me and say that they want to paint a lure like that. They all want to know how you did it. It is an impressive piece. Red knew what he was doing when he included. Geeezzzzz, the tallent that is on this site. Skeeter

Acri CryL huh? Your spelling is alittle off isn't it JT ? You bet bud.... the EPA found your stuff. When you run out I would be more than happy to answer any questions that you might have. I may not be able to paint as well as you.... but I can clearcoat the hell out of a bait. Skeeter

I sign the lure. Skeeter

What!! Skeeter