Skeeter

I have 2 Mama Cats. One is black and yellow and the other is Tn. Shad. Skeeter

Here is the link to the tutorial. http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/24488-how-to-apply-devcon/page-1#entry185471 For some dumb reason when I type a certain word then Plaster of Paris replaces the word in the document. Can't fix it. Don't know why. Hope the tutorial helps. Skeeter

Really enjoyed the video. I think you did an excellent job. Skeeter

I think you did a wonderful job. Congratulations. Skeeter

You know Bob.... I am getting tired of this "I'm just a hobby builder" garbage. Strike King would be much better off if they would just hire you. Sorry brother, I am just too stubborn. No MCU for this kid. Skeeter

As always brother....... your exactly right. Skeeter

I agree with BobP. Skeeter

"In other words, what do I need to do to make a better blank that in the end catches fish?" Work hard and have patience. Skeeter

I tried a very popular MCU that guys use on this site. I have brushed it on and even shot it through an airbrush. The only problem that I experienced was that it took 3 1/2 weeks to FULLY cure. In 24 hrs. it looked hard, slick and clear. However, I was able to take my finger nail and crease the clear for over 3 weeks. Once it was completely cured it was hard as a rock. I just can't let a bait go to anyone until it is ready. That is just too much time for me. If it did truely cure in a day or so then I might use it. But all of the precautions (bloxygen, storage, shelf life, etc.) that you have to consider with it is a show stopper for me. The stuff is just too unstable and complicated in my opinion. Skeeter

Save your patience, time, and money. Get an airbrush. Skeeter

No Sir, we have had tons of rain, snow and ice her over the past 3 weeks. High Rock is a mud ball. Water temp is 46 deg. However, I do expect to get out in the next week or so. IT'S TIME !! Bless you all. Skeeter

To my knowledge the cancer causing agents in solvent based anything is isocanates. It is my understanding that there is NO FILTER that can catch it. I do wear a respirator when I spray. The main reason is to keep solvent based paints from getting into my lungs. They are not water soluable. Paint can stay there for a long time if you get enough of it. I have gotten PLENTY of lacquer paints, thinners, and clears on my hands over the past 16 years and I haven't grown a third arm yet. However, I do wear a glove on my left hand (the hand I use to hold the bait) when I mass shoot primers and undercoats. I have never worn the glove while shooting scales and finish work. They are cumbersome and just get in the way. I just need my fingers free when lining up nets and stuff. I am still alive and have not experienced any physical problems from shooting lacquer paint. Hughesy is still kicking. He shoots more paint in a week that I do in a year. Just take the proper precautions and shoot, mix or brush on your clears. You should be just fine. Skeeter

TU just can't seem to get rid of me. NC is just as beautiful as always. Skeeter

To me anything horizontal causes drag. That is just a bad word to me when designing or making a bait. Skeeter

Anything Hughesy says is gospel to me. The only thing I would add to his suggestion is to wipe the bait with a wet rag to get the thinner off so that it does not eat at the plastic once you are done. It doesn't take long for thinner to get the paint off. Skeeter

Take your piece of square balsa and draw the profile and the top outline of the lure on the block. Cut out the profile and then cut your lip slot. Then cut from the top to shape the top profile. From there the only thing left is to shape your lure. Get a sharp knife and a piece of 220 sandpaper and get to work. There are no shortcuts to making handmade baits. It takes patience, dedication, and skill. You develope these with time. Take your sweet time and get just one right. Learn from your mistakes and correct them. Eventually you will be able to train your eye and shape your bait more quickly. Get an E1 in front of your face and start shaping your lure to look the same. The only complicated part of the entire process is developing your skill. Developing your skill will test your patience (believe me) and dedication. To truely be above the rest takes hard work. There are no shortcuts. Get busy and good luck. Skeeter

Hughesy is right. Makes no difference. Skeeter

My advice would be to get a Paasche VL kit. Comes with everything that you need. Jars, cups, hose, etc. It is a really good gun. There are better. I also shoot an Iwata and if I had to choose just one gun it would be the VL. If you like to shoot glitter in your paint the VL is your best bet. Iwatas can't take it without clogging. You can really lay down some paint or lighten it up if you take the time to learn how. You can use a cup or use a jar, it is a versitile gun. Plus, they are really durable and you can get parts cheap and easy. It is the way to go. I use an Iwata to shoot the scales and the back stripe. If it is a paint with no glitter then it works beautifully. Shoot with the VL. Then if you feel you are ready for a better gun then get an Iwata. Skeeter

Anything that is abrasive should not be used to clean a needle. Anything that removes material changes the dimensions of the needle and will eventually affect spraying. You should need nothing more than the thinner that you use for the paint on a paper towel to clean it. Unless you rinse your gun thoroughly after using chemicals to clean your gun then you are leaving residues to mix with your paint. This could affect all kinds of things including color, adhesion, and durability. I clean my entire gun after each color. That way I am sure that there is no contamination of the next color to be shot. I am not a fancy painter. But, my paint jobs are clean. No over spray, grainy surfaces, etc. Keep your gun clean and choose good paint. Cleanup should be a snap. For lacquers and enamels use lacquer thinner or acetone. For water based I use hot water. If I have to I use hot soapy water with dish detergent. Then the gun gets completely rinsed in hot clean water to remove any residue from the soap. All of this may sound time consuming. But, most of us that shoot a lot can tear down our guns and put them back together like a marine. Clean guns produce the best results. Skeeter

"To be honest, the only people worth sending baits to, are other builders, at least they know what they are talking about and understand about the need for feedback." Excellent !! Skeeter

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone. God Bless Skeeter

I remember the Ron E baits. The only problem that you may have is that Richard Manley (from what I have been told) learned from Ron. So unless their designs were different or they signed or marked their baits in some way you may not be able to tell them apart. Seems Ron made a bait called the Little Pig or Baby Pig. From doing some research, some say that Ron made the good ones and the ones that Richard made were not as good. If the baits you have were made by Ron, then they are desirable by some folks and worth some money. Skeeter

I am not sure.... but I believe that it is a Yozuri Pins Minnow. I don't know if that lure is still made. Skeeter

I am with Ben about the nurses. Hope you are doing well buddy. My prayers are with you. Skeeter