Skeeter

Thanks Hughesy, You are correct. I have been VERY HARD at it. I still am. I have made about 7 different designs of crankbaits. They all caught fish. However, in my quest to make the best crankbaits that I could possibly make, I decided to put in alot of time studying what I believe, is the perfect crankbait. It is all open to opinion. However, after spending 3 years throwing crankbaits 90% of the time year round, I have learned alot. I thought I had it all down. But, I didn't. Of my 7 designs only 4 cut the mustard. And even one of those 4 designs had to be slightly modified to run properly. I have quit selling the other 3. I am back to the drawing board on them. You and Jeff have put your time in on your baits. They must be right because they are putting checks in the bank. I have some touring pros that are thowing 2 of my deep running cranks. They have not yet won a tournament, but they have definitely paid some bills for these guys. Come the first of the year I plan to have a web site to sell my baits. Believe me, the ones that I put on that site for sale will be correct. Skeeter

Since I started making crankbaits and participating in forums such as this one, a large ammount of concern has been toward weighting crankbaits. Many, including myself believed that good crankbait action is greatly affected by the ammout of weight in the crankbait. The trend is to get the crankbait as light as possible to achieve optimum action. WRONG!!!!!!!! Crankbait action is achieved through proper lip design, line tie placement, and angle of the lip. Now don't get me wrong...... proper weighting is a definite factor in a well made crankbait. However, weighting is there to give the bait the proper position in the water so that it can obtain maximum performance. Straight bodies, properly aligned hardware, and perfect ballance, is what separates excellent crankbaits from good ones. Just because a crankbait is custom made, made by hand or is designed by some pro does NOT mean the bait is made correctlly. The proper action is something that you learn through countless hours of throwing a crankbait. Many of my own baits that I thought were correct.... were not. I took a dozen of my own baits and tested them in my pool. Only 7 passed my testing. I took the other 5 and reworked them. The action greatly improved. I took those baits to the lake and I caught more fish on them in 3 days than I had in the past year. Take the time to throw some wooden cranks in a pool and really pay attention to how they act. Throw something in the bottom of the pool for them to hit and watch the reaction of the bait when they hit it. You will really be supprised to learn just how much you don't know. I was. Skeeter

A few weeks back I spent alot of time testing different crankbaits in my pool made from several different types of wood to test the properties and characteristics of how they act it the water. I learned a ton about different types of commercial made baits as well as my own. One of the things that I will share is that this deal about balsa being the only wood that will backup and quiver when the crank hits something is crap. I have been told by some of the finest crankbait makers in the country that balsa is the only wood to use for making crankbaits because of these properties. WRONG!!!!!!!! Every commercial balsa bait that I tested floated up like a rocket. They all spiraled on the way up. As a norm, all balsa baits rotated 360 deg. for every 5 ft. that they rose. None of the commercial crankbaits quivered. The weight in all of them is too light to allow it. They all rose very very quickly. The thing here, is that all balsa baits, regardless of how you weight them, will spiral. They will just spiral quickly or more slowly depending on the way they are weighted. Heavier weighted balsa will rise about 1 - 2 ft. before the spiral starts severely. All of the commercial baits that I tried are really not weighted properly. This includes those made out of cedar also. However, the ones made out of cedar did not spiral when raising. They still come up way too fast. None of the baits that I tested "quiver" on the rise. They don't have time to quiver. They come up way to fast to allow it. All hardwood and balsa baits do backup when they hit something. The more dense the wood the less they backup. Balsa will backup about 1 to 1 1/2 ft. for every 5 ft. it raises. The poplar that I use in some of my baits and cedar backup the least. They will move about 6 inches for every 5 ft. of rise. The biggest problem that I did notice was that the majority of commercial baits are weighted improperly. Sure, lots of fish have been caught off of these baits, but that does not make them right. If I sold 30,000 baits a year, I am sure a fair amount of fish would be caught on them throughout the country. This does not make them correct. One commercial bait that was designed by one of the nations top crankbait pros for deep cranking, was a total flop. It is suppose to be specially weighted for the task. They are not made anymore, and I was able to get about 20 of them for $2.00 apiece. The bait sits almost level in the water before you start the bait digging. This is totally wrong. The placements of the extra weights is wrong. I redid the weighting and put one of my own special lips in the bait and can get that bait to dive quicker, deeper and run more accurately than it did out of the box. The action is much better also. Another thing, all of this stuff about how difficult it is to hit the 20 ft. mark with a crankbait is garbage. I make a crank that has a much smaller lip than anything that is sold commercially. It does not look like a frying pan hanging off of the front of the bait. It will consistantly hit 24 ft. with 12lb line. So far this summer, I have caught over 130 lbs of bass off of one of these plugs. My point here is....... Don't believe everything that you hear. Pros will not truely give you what it takes to make the perfect crankbait. If you think that a pro that is paying the bills and making good money through competition will share his secrets with you.... you are crazy. If you think that the pros that are making a living from cranks are throwing stock crankbaits, you are crazy too. If you were a pro and you won $250,000 this year throwing crankbaits, would you share with a national magazine or reporter the bait that you were using? Would you tell them what makes that bait so good? I don't think so. Skeeter

I don't know if you saw it or not, but Erik put that he was looking for someone to volunteer as a moderator to the forums. He said that with his day job that he didn't have time to do it himself. I think it is a real shame that the site died. There was a ton on info on it. But folks were having real trouble reaching Erik or anyone else on the site. Some of the problems were dealing with money. For a long time the site just ran itself. I don't think anyone was really watching over it. My guess is that it is lost. But for folks to make alot of promises and then just walk away is just plain bad. No one to ever answer you back. Those folks should have made an attempt to let us know what was going on in some fashion or another. If it is handled that way then "good riddens." The folks that run this site really do keep track of things. They always respond and listen to requests from all of us kids. I really don't know what happened to the other site. Maybe Red or one of them has an idea? Skeeter

Getting down to 20 ft. is not a problem. Weighting plastic cranks for that kind of depth is a waste of time. Most of them just aren't made for weighting or that kind of depth. If you are wanting 20 ft. from a plastic crank, then my suggestion would be a Norman DD22 or a 20+ by Manns. Fish them on 8 to 10 lb line. Normans deep little N will get to 16ft. on 8 lb line. For wooden cranks, cut the lip out and put it comming straight out from the nose. This will add the depth you are looking for as long as the bait is perfectly ballanced and tuned. Weighting a crank serves only one purpose, to change the diving angle of the plug. The steeper the diving angle the faster the bait will reach maximum depth. You will not obtain greater depth by just adding weight unless you are only looking for an extra 6 inches of depth. Take my word for it, weighting won't get it regardless of what anyone tells you. Pro or not. Good equipment will surely help. Long casts are necessary to reach those depths. Skeeter

Great article. I read it twice and then save it. Skeeter

I can probably help you with this one if it is a wooden crankbait. First I need to know what kind and brand of crankbait, and how deep you want it to go. Also I would like to know if you want the bait to keep the same action that it currently has or if you want to modify it. Most modifications can be made fairly easily. Skeeter

Delw, As you can see you are not alone. I have hit my limit at times also. I use to take orders and have time deadlines to meet. I killed myself trying to satisfy folks and still keep the quality of my baits. This year, for the first time I quit taking orders with time deadlines. You can just plain kill yourself working a job and then comming home and working another one. You can do it for awhile, but eventually you become tired and the one thing that you love to do becomes a chore. A friend of mine that makes pottery says that he has to have his ZEN going for him to do his best work. I think that is true for anyone that makes things by hand. Many of us have tried to make something when we don't feel like it. It never seems to come out right and then we get mad about it. All of that work to turn out a piece of crap. If you can, work on your baits when you feel like it. Like the others said, take some time for yourself. But most of all.... keep you bait making an enjoyment. That's why most of us started all of this to begin with. Don't ever loose sight of that. Skeeter

Coley, I saw the pictures and thought that the bait is wonderful. It took alot of skill to put that thing together. Everything matches up so well. You have a definite talent. The shape of the bait is very unique also. I really do like it. When I saw it I thought..... where did he come up with that design. Then I saw that the bait is being held with a roach clip . I remember when you were asking how to make your first one here on the board. You have really come a long way. Keep up the excellent work. Oh, by the way, I made my first vote on the gallery tonight. Skeeter

This is simple to answer. You really have to love crankbaits, and you MUST HAVE ALOT OF PATIENCE!!!!!!!!!!!! If neither of these fit, then make something else. I have been doing this for three yrs. I learn something every time. I have made copies of just about every wooden crank out there. I have modified tons of baits for folks. In the past 3 yrs I have spent over 1000 hrs throwing nothing but a crankbait. Just last week I spent over 8 hrs studying crankbaits in my pool. I learned a ton. A truely well made crankbait that sits and runs properly in the water takes time. Just because someone makes a good looking plug and catches some fish on it does not mean it is right and performs to its optimal potential. It takes time, dedication, and you just plain have to love it. Without a doubt, it is the hardest of lures to do right. Stick with it and stick with the guys on this board. Your questions will get answered here. The regulars are all very talented and are happy to share with others. You don't need alot of money or equipment. However, I would suggest either a scroll or band saw and a drill press. You can get these items fairly cheap at www.harborfreight.com If I can help you in any way just let me know. Skeeter

I would like to see them too Ken. That would be the perfect size for me. Skeeter

Ok Dude, relax, I got you covered. To start with you did good with the scroll saw. You are right, you don't need high tech stuff to cut balsa. Working with balsa is easy on your equipment also. You can use the 1/8 Lexan for your lips. What Coley put on the board for you that I wrote to him is what you need to do. Personally I think that you need about a 30 no more than 40 degree slot for your lip. For your weights try 3/16 to 1/4 oz. of weight for that size bait. Most of us that make cranks probably all started the way your are. I would try making a Poes RC3 or RC1 crankbait to start with. It is basically flat and you can take your measurement easily with that bait. Cutting slots with the saw takes practice. You will have to learn to make several cuts to cut it out. Cut the top of the slot line and then the bottom. Make several cuts down the middle to remove the rest. The side of a bastard file is generally 1/8 inch thick on its side edge. It will make the slot square if you need to. Be sure that the platten on the scroll saw is flat. If is is adjustable then it has to be at 90 deg. to the blade. Do not sand the sides of the bait. Your wood is already cut square, therefore, leave it that way. You should only have to sand the top and bottom edges. If you sand the sides then you may have cut the slot just fine, but threw it out of wack if you started sanding the sides. I know because I've done it. You have picked the toughest of baits to start with. Making cranks by hand is a lesson is patience and skill. Stick with it. It will come. If you would like to discuss anything, send me some email. I would be glad to help just like the rest of the guys here. Skeeter

OK, this is just my opinion and I will probably get blasted for it....... but computer board for a lip looks like crap in a crank. It is no easier to work with than lexan. I have played with a piece of it and it will get the job done. However, just get some .060 lexan or polycarbonate and use it. You cut lexan with a fine tooth saw blade and leave the plastic or paper coating on it when you cut it. This makes it much easier to draw on and keeps the edges smooth. I am really not sure where folks get it. And you are right..... it seems to be a Tn. thing. But computer board will also wear alot quicker than lexan. It is breakable also. Skeeter

I don't know what the problem is but I am having trouble with getting the site up every night. I have to check stuff from home when I can. First I need to know some things. What is the bait made of? How big is it? What style of lip are you using? Where is the line tie located and how are you making it? How much weight are you using and where is it located? Every one of these is a factor. Use Devcon 5 min. epoxy to put in your lip. 1/8 inch lexan is hard to work with. It is thick and gets hot as you cut it. The edges melt and are really rough when you cut it. For me it is hard to keep straight. Use blades in your saw that are very fine teeth. I use blades ment for PVC pipe in my scroll saw. You can get them at Lowes. Try .060 lexan. This is about 1/16 in. thick. Leave the plastic coating on the lexan when you cut it. It keeps the edges cleaner and really reduces the melting. Cut the slot for the lip in the bait before you cut the bait out of the stock of wood. Then cut the outline of the lure out. This is the best way to keep it square. If you are making flat cranks, and the wood is square, then don't sand the sides of the lure. Sometimes sanding the sides of the bait can throw it off. Just round the top and bottom of the lure. Before you glue the lip in, just slide it in the slot and take a look at how it wll sit. Also, try setting it in there with the wire line tie on it. This is a BIG cause of making a lip sit crooked in a slot. If you need too, cut a channel down the center of the bottom lip slot for the wire to set in. If the slot is wide, then glue the lip in and keep eye balling the lip as the epoxy dries. Sometimes as epoxy dries, it will twist the lip. Keep adjusting it untill it is right. You will only have to watch it for about 10 min. By then the epoxy is set. Your main goal is to get good glue on the top and bottom of the lip. You can worry about the sides later. Answer these other questions for me and we can get you fixed up. Skeeter

You can just shoot a white undercoat over the existing finish, repaint the bait, and then clear coat the lure as normal. If you feel the existing clear coat is not very good then sand it off. Some strike king lure use a film and it will peel off easily. If you paint of these then you take the chance of paint peeling. Rapala does use some decals. But I think their clear coat is fine to shoot over. Skeeter

Sounds like you got it all right. Now it is time to sell them. Skeeter

I agree with Hughesy about the regulator. That is a must. You can get one at Lowes for about $24.00. This will allow you to adjust the pressure of the air that is released from the compressor. His point on a clean tip is right on the money also. Sometimes while spraying paint will dry on the tip of the needle. This is a good one for causing splatter. After the regulator, I would try to switch to a #3 tip and needle. I use this needle in my VL for all of my shooting. Adjusting the needle in or out of the tip can help also. Take the back cover off of the airbrush and learn to shoot with it off. This way you can adjust the needle, if needed, as you shoot. I don't shoot but one color of acrylic paint. Most of my painting is with water based latex house paints. I thin it with water until it drips off of the stir easily and consistantly. They say to thin it to the consistancy of milk, but that doesn't always work for all brands of paint. I do shoot the createx water based paints. I shoot them and other water based paints between 12 and 18 psi. If paint builds up on the tip, then I just back the needle into the gun and the clog will usually sit on the tip. Just take a toothpick and lightly take it off. Push the needle back up and continue shooting. I usually don't have this problem with lacquer paints. I use acetone to thin them with and it seems to keep things clear. Lacquers I shoot between 21 and 24 psi. As a general rule you thin lacquer at 3 to 1. 3 parts paint and 1 part thinner. If the lacquer shoots with a WET look then you about have it right. My experience has been that certain pearls and translucents do not need thinning. Createx, even though many of us use it doesn't need thinning. I find it kind of hard to shoot also. Of all of the painting questions that I get, createx is the one brand of paint I get asked about the most. Don't feel alone, there are many folks out there fighting the same problem that you are having with createx. Like Hughesy says, you just have to play with it. Skeeter

Those are some very nice looking baits. You have done a good job. On the gills....... I don't paint them on mine unless someone requests them. To me it is just another thing to worry about. I do shoot some red on the chin of the lure. If red is what they are looking for, there is enough there to get their attention. Skeeter

Coley, You can get crank bodies like that at Janns Netcraft. www.jannsnetcraft.com I believe you can get them either clear or white. They are also real reasonable on the price. Skeeter

The guys are telling you right about the mixing. Make sure that the epoxy is mixed well. You do not have to thin Devcon. I never have either. From what you say, I believe the problem is the temperature. Devcon spreads best between 70 and 75 deg. This is also the best curing temperature. The hotter it is the faster it sets. The colder it is the harder it is to spread and the slower it cures. Devcon can be kept plyable for up to 3 days at temperatures around 40 deg. Do it in the house. No need to use heaters and all of that kind of stuff. Just spread it on, rotate the bait for about 20 to 30 minutes and then hang it to dry above 70 deg. for 24 hrs. before use. Skeeter

mlamb7, Refinishing old lures is not too bad. If the finish is all that is dull or scratched, then just lightly sand the lure to make it smooth. If they have holes and gouges then sand off the clearcoat, fill the holes and gouges with wood putty and then sand the lure smooth. You do not have to remove all of the old paint. Just what is loose and jagged. White undercoat the lure and then shoot your colors. Clearcoat with Devcon 2 ton epoxy. If your lips are crooked, the belly weight is off center, or the body is not straight, then before you paint the lure is the time to do these things. If you are not sure how to do these things then send me some email, tell me what the problems are, and I will tell you how to do this. Skeeter

Truely beautiful baits Blackjack. I still think that the Fyer Tyger tapp is the best firetiger paint job I have EVER seen. Excellent work. Skeeter

If the bait is a spook type bait, then this was started by Zell Roland. Nathan told you right on the idea behind this. The thought is that since the current hangers on the spook only allow movement of the hook to go from center to the back of the bait that the fish can gain leverage to throw the bait. By using the split rings, the hooks have more freedom of movement making the bait tougher to throw. This is probably the reasoning behind Tim using split rings on his Boing lure. To do this... remove the current hook hangers. Fill in the holes with epoxy. Drill a single hole in the belly and the tail. Put in some screweyes with some epoxy on the threads and put on your split rings and hooks. The pros in Texas started this stuff about 15 yrs. ago, around the same time they came up with shaving Pop-r lips. They use to put two screweyes in the belly and one in the tail adding an extra hook for better hookups. This is where the Super Spook came from with the 3 hooks on it. There was an article in Bassmaster in the past year or two on this. It was on Zell Rowland and topwaters. In it he explains the placement of the hooks and how to do it. Skeeter

Very very nice Coley. Keep up the good work. Skeeter

99% of what I shoot is water based latex house paint. I get it from Lowes. I tried lacquer to see what the deal is. I do like it. It seems I can be more accurate while shooting scale patterns with it. It also gives you that fade effect that everyone wants easier than with water based. It dries very quickly, so that you can remove templates or scale patterns easily without having to worry about smearing the paint. However, I have my own problems with it. You see..... I make mistakes. With lacquer, the mistake is on there. You really can't fix it. The only option you have it to shoot white base coat to cover it up and start again. You will use tons of thinner. Buy it by the gallon. If you don't have a ventilated spray booth then GET A RESPIRATOR!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are a fool if you don't. You can get respirators for about 25 to 35 bucks. Your lungs should be worth that. Water based paints dissolve. Lacquers do not. The thinners are highly toxic, I don't care what anyone tells you... none of it is safe to breathe. Make sure that you get the right filters on the respirator for shooting lacquer paints. Now that I am done preaching...... I have some of Dick Nites paints, some taxidermy paints, and some Testors Pactra paints that are all lacquers. Dick's paints need to be thinned 3 to 1. They spray real nice. The taxidermy paints are just pour and shoot. You can see them at www.taxidermy.com The Pactra paints work well also. I don't thin the Pactra pearl paints, but I do the rest of them. I keep a 2 oz. air brush spray jar full of acetone for cleaning the gun between colors. Snap it on and shoot about 1/4 of the jar through it and then snap on the next color. When I am done completely shooting then I shoot acetone through the gun to get the paint out and then tear the gun completely down and clean it with hot soapy water. Acetone as a thinner is the hottest. It evaproates extremely fast. This allows the paint to dry quickly. Some use MEK or Xylene. I have used them all. I prefer the acetone. The cheapest place I have found this stuff is at Wal Mart. Which ever you use, be careful with it all. These are very strong flammable solvents. Skeeter