Delw

you didnt cook your plastic throughly. it should be clear when cooked. shake container then cook it the plastic will start to turn clear and gel up like snot, then keep cooking for a little bit and it will get thin. Make sure you stir it well onces its clear its good to pour

a really good re enforcement material is yellow dry wall tape. its meshed and very strong.

This is funny, but its funny just cause I have known Curt personally for a few years when he lived in AZ, now he is up in corn country and stirring the do doo LMAO. But people do need to lighten up, it seems that once someone says something everyone jumps on the band wagon, whats funny is people that got uptight about it are doing the exact same thing Curt and his friend did but in reverse. Vodkaman you need to lighten up a tad, maybe grab a beer or 2 or a gal of vodka perhaps. you tend to be getting way to uptight lately and nitpicky. Delw

Yes I pour them salted, I believe that one is as well, the skirt is a 221 yamy skirt and the bait is one made with nightcrawler. to be honest I dont remember how many drops I use. I usually mix in 2 cups increments and just pour the colorant in as I need to. My self I dont care as long as it close so I couldnt give you an honest answer. I use that color alot. Delw

I use night crawler only. heres the pic http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/120137-post2.html

it doesnt hurt them one bit, we have had it here in AZ since the early 90s late 80s? they change it during the winter and summer. its more hype than anything else. and more general BS from people who just like to complain Delw

Its called oxidation and it doesnt happen that often unless your water is alkinliny(sp?) Storm wraps theres for the simple fact that ugly lead doesnt sell but a nice shinny foil in there makes the bait look better to the customer.

No the lead doesnt corrode plastic, I have a dozen swimbais with lead inserts that are over a year old and fished the inserts look just fine to me.. if anything the oxidation will get on the lead , but never heard of plastic corroding. the plastic will form a pretty much air tight seal to the insert on the hand pour molds, I think the factor molds get the inserts pushed in them after they are poured not sure but have noticed that the org babe and tiny "e" are a little sloppier and loose the inserts quite often. however once you start getting whacked on the swimbait the fish twisting and turning will alow the plastic to bend in a way to get water between the insert and plastic.

Thats the typical mind set of "Gay Bass" fishermen ( we call them gay bass here in az). These numbnuts and people like them will use any excuess to help there cause and blame it on this or that. Bass fishermen do the same thing look at guys fishing in the west coast for bass and heavens forbid they keep one. Ive seen trout and bass and pretty much every fish crap out hooks worms even a dropshot weight still attached to the hook. some make it some don't too bad so sad. if you look at the picture its just a dumb fish it ate something way to big bass do the same thing all the time, maybe we should ban crappie and bluegill from our lakes as I have seen many fish floating on the top with a 1-2lb crappie in its throat. Delw

how are the modifications expensive? your making the master out of clay it looks like and the molds out of a pop or something. its manly time not an expence. if your hobby is making baits than there is no expense on time as thats what a hobby is.

in order for the bait to swim right the fins must be perfectly symetrical if its off in the smallest way it til spin. thats when even the factory ones spin from time to time, Lining it up by Eye wont work. in order to make it work and make up for the spin you can throw wings on it it will help level it out, however if your bait is too far out of wack even wings wont help. the only way to make a perfectly symetrical bait is via a computer and a machine either making a master or a mold. this is one problem with using resin Pop and rtv and swimbaits. put the wings in and you should correct the problem unless your way off.

not true, your signature will be taken out of every post that is made once you change it. it just takes a few mins, usually its when you( the person who made the change) log back on and make a new post it will all disapear, or if the host does a vb refresh it will be gone.

someone else mentioned a while ago to just use a golf tee.

just add blue or red. you can do the same with pearl powder to make silver, chrome, black chrome, black pearl, gold etc etc pearl powder is a pretty cool powder to have as you can make almost anything with it. one drop of black in pearl powder will make silver. of coarse that depends on how much pearl you use.

with that kinda price on RTV you cant beat it. the count you want per hour is no problem, you will just need more molds than 4-5 more than likely double. RTV and pop takes a long time to cool as they don't dissipate heat. you might be able to put some pc case fans on the molds to help them cool also. the whole key is when your done pouring you last mold the first one should be set up. if you have to wait you lost valuable production time. even with alum molds and fans your probally looking at around 6-8 molds pouring before the first one cools. I have some customers that pour over 5k baits a week. he's running 40 molds at a time. using sta- warm pots. presto sta-warm or what have you will pour fast about 5-8 seconds per cavity if that. ( I am just going based on what he has told me as time wise. Delw

30 seconds after the top that you pour into doesnt stick to you finger., unless its a big cavity like a swimbait or something.

pop would be best and cheapest. rtv isnt very good for 2 piece molds. you will need about 8-12 to meet your quota cause of the longer curing time in pop and rtv. RTV cost about 1/2 of what alum molds cost. I would make them out of resin as its cheaper and 100 times better than both RTV and POP and easier to work with.

Plastic has mositure in it. almost everything does. A microwave works off of moisture h2o to make it work, so if something has moisture in it it will get warm. Metal of any kind does not hurt a microwave that was a urban legend do to when the microwaves first came out lots of women used tin foil which caused a spark. hence the urban legend of not using metal in a microwave. as tinfoil is alumin foil. anything shiney in a microwave will cause it to arc even very shinny plastic glitter. on reheats its best to cut the glitter that sank to the bottom out, then after the plastic is melted drop it in chunks in the cup and stir it. a clump of glitter will arc and does catch fire in a microwave.. reheating plastic with glitter in it is not a problem as long as its not in a clump. Myth busters did awsum show on microwaves a few years ago, well worth watching if you can find it. they proved alot of bogus stuff using microwaves and pretty much cooked everything they could find. wood will actually catch fire in a microwave no mater how dry it is. for those that have acring on the top use steel wool to take the shinyness off it works perfect.

Kelly how do you know its true? you don't and there is NO way to prove it. You use your real Name so do I. but I have nothing to hide, like you. most use just nick names they made up. I have many people on some of my fishing and hunting forums that Don't like people using fake names have tried to get me to make people use there real names. which BTW is impossible. so is a location more important than a real name? the again how do you know its true? there are guys on this forum with 2-3 names even though its not allowed and all the prevention is there they do it. of course fictisous names emails locations and even different ip numbers. you can tell by the way they type, when they type and how they type. requiring people to put a real location out there just wont work as you have no proof that the person really is from that place, thats his/her name age etc etc. kinda makes as much sence as a soup sandwhich to require someone to do that.

WOW you guys really get into the conspiricy type stuff LOL who cares were the location is as you will never ever know if its real or not, even doing an ip search wont tell you were its coming from. AOL ips come from Virginia so if every aol user had there real location how would anyone know its true? Remember its the internet, you can't trust anyone n what they tell you even if you have emails and Ips if you coudl there would be no such thing as spammers. I wont even know were mine is from until I make this post cause I never look. Edit: Mine says peoria however I am in glendale, so now maybe I should make 2 log in names one for peoria and one for glendale? what happens if I am in texas fishing and online at a hotel room or driving to a lake 5 hours away down the interstate. just food for thought

I forgot to mention the whole cat I was looking at was a 2004 edition, I thought it was my new on but thats in the shop on my gambler. I think the prices have come down about 15%

What do you consider a reasonable price? I have installed 30-50 of them over the years for guys that were remans and there all about the same price. but you wont find good stuff cheap nor will you find cheap stuff that lasts. depending on the year your looking at anywhere from 2700 for a crossflow 1977-1991 reman only v6 carbed 1991-1993 and the 1994-2003 4500reman 5400 new that includes core charges and dont plan on getting anything back on a core as its not worth the shippng cost to save 1-2 hundred at the most. I don't sell them now as I am too busy with machining. if your run into a pickle let me know. its approx 6-15 hours to do a swap. carbs must be rebuilt, VRO pump MUST be replaced with a new one and a new water impeller MUST be NEW. if you dont do the above things I just mentioned you just wasted all your time and money on a new power head. Most power heads have a 1 year warrenty I have never had a omc reman or aftermarket power head go out nor even a merc. if you goto OMC for you add 2-3 k just for the power head to the above price

when 3x first came out you used to be able to get it from Calhoun for about 45-60 a gallon,. then there was some issues with it and calhoun will only sell it by the 55gal drum at about 100 per gallon. last I heard 2 years ago they would only make it on a custom run. its the exact same stuff as 3x. the stuff does not heat the same, it doesnt work in the microwave and the colors need to be a powdered format. Its been a long time since I played with it. If I remember correctly you heat it to about 300 degrees then pour it at around 200 degrees.( you do have to heat it then wait till it cools to pour just forget the exact temp). it pours pretty thin but shrinks alot. its very light 1 gallon weighs I think 2-3lbs

Figure 3oz per gallon

Worm oil worm oil has NO UV prohibators in it, so it will turn yellow over time, it also does evaporate as well. worm oil is more slippery than Softener by far Softener works just as good even better, it also doesnt turn yellow, for the longest time calhoun was selling softner aka DINP as worm oil Both should never be used in any baits that have salt in them as the salt will absorbe the oil thats in the bag. if there is salt in the baits both will cause leaching of the colors Ie bleeding. Adding oils to the baits in the bag are used for one reason and one reason only and thats to sell, It has no other purpose. when people buy baits they buy them cause baits look pretty shinny cool colors etc etc they will buy those before they buy something that looks dull and ugly even though both will catch fish. adding a oil to a bait makes the baits feel alive so to speak in the package. Baits will not suck in the oils if you dont use salt or any porous material in the baits. for example a pour bait with only plastic after its hard and cured will not absorb worm oil or softner This reply is pertaining to putting oils in a bag after they are cooked not before.