Delw

Kevin if your going to burn the 5" ones in you will need to run the salt water plastic the 500 regular will work pretty good for most swimbaits. Super soft(536) is way to soft for for the baby e style, at a slow roll the tail is too eratic to were it moves so fast you dont see it moving. the 500 will give you good vibration with but will wiggle semi fast, the hard will allow the tail to move slowed at very high speed retrieves. but might be a tad to hard. might want to add a little bit of hardened to the 500. When I say "burning in" I am using a 6:1-1 reels and reeling as fast as I can, like with rattle traps and and skinny dippers Crawling a baby e style bait with with soft( not super soft) plastic gives you a perfect action. to were it actually looks real in the water.

Me personally No I wouldnt have a problem with it. I have gel coat and fiberglass that I am using for a boat restore project on a gambler. I bought it for my other restore boat, been sitting for 1.5 years. Fiberglass was crusty on the top, I call my self a dumb**** for not storing it properly and went and bought another 5 gals container for 125 bucks. Never said a word to the guy I bought it from. I got gel coat laying in the shop unopened thats been sitting for 2-3 years. its no good I can guarenetee it. hot and cold in the shop during the years its my fault for not using it with in a reasonable amount of time. Same thing with plastic. you leave it unopened for 1-2 years and you finally open it and its hardened on the bottom or is full of bubbles is it the venders fault? if so why? Vendors have no control over how it is stored. leave it in a garage or in the shed we all know it will have issues, Can't blame a vendor for that. what about if someone bought 100 bags of baits from you lets say stik baits. 1 year later you get a call that the baits faded in color you going to replace them? how about if the customer left them in the back yard on his patio for a full year in direct sunlight and heat and cold. I guess what I am trying to say is we all need to take some responcibilty for what we do or don't do, its not always someone elses fault, some ( can't think of the word..?) needs to be used, Any liguid should stay a liquid in a sealed container doesnt apply to this type of liquid. for the simple fact is is way above and beyond a normal liquid. Your talking about a liquid that is highly highly flamable ,and highly evaporative( forget the proper term). Just a a few degrees of tempature difference changes the characteristics. When that stuff first came out my buddy had some we were in his garage, right then I knew I didnt want anything to do with it, the smell reminded me of some stuff I smelt when I was a kid as in highly flamable stuff more so than Jp-5 and ether. My 6th and 7th grade D.O.D. (Department of Defence in Japan) chemistry teacher Mr.Green taught me alot about chemicals,( I wish they would still teach this in schools) plus working with dad in the navy in fuel and chemicals that they played with and the testing of these fuels and chemicals I had the oppertunity to learn alot about different liquids and gas's and how they worked what they needed to be stored in and how long the would last amd the best of all how loud they Flash and go BOOM etc etc. Yes I really had chemistry class's in the 5th and 7th grades and I mean real chemistry were we got to play with everything that is hazardous now, mercury, all acids in both concentrates and diluted forms 6m 12m etc etc, chemicals that make bombs, fuses and some really cool stuff. Potasium permaginate and glycerin was always my favorite, I had jars and jars of that stuff. there was always a neighbor that didnt like kids so why not a better way to cause a small semi explosion under his bedroom window at 2am when we were all asleep at 9pm,all it took was a small dixie cup of Postasium permaginate few drops of glycerin setting on some ice wrapped in plastic and 2 cherry bombs. Yeah I always enjoyed hands on chemistry

come one man were talking about something thats been sitting for a long time, would you feed a baby babyfood tahts been sitting for a long time? I think customers need to start giving some vendors some slack and use some common sence, if your going to have something perishable sitting for a long time expect it to go bad, don't complain about it. just like any plastic. paint etc. try going to a paint store and return a gallon of paint 6 months or a year later try it at a food store try it anywere they will tell you they can't replace it, why should vendors be responcible for a product that is way out dated especially perishable stuff. I can tell you why they shouldnt be. cause VENDORS HAVE NO CONTROL ONCE IT LEAVES THE STORE, ABSOLUTELY NONE, that goes from shipping to what you do with it, for all VENDROS know you could set it outside in the snow for 2 months then boil it. bottom line is its always really easy for someone to say a "Manufacturer should do this or that? reason being its NOT yours and its NOT your money, but man are we the first to complain about a price being to high. I just don't get it.

I worked around chemicals like this for a long time, this paint and the chemicals in it will evaporate very fast, I am surprised that it doesnt dry out sooner once its opened. we used the same basic stuff in rebuilding cnc machines on the repaint side and it comes in a 1 gal chemical can ( which are expensive) with in 6 months the can is 3/4 full. the more air in the can the more that evaperators. Tape won't work for sealing jars gas will still escape. chemical jars are very very costly and will probally cost more than the paint itself. also if you open the stuff you should always replace a seal as once a seal is opened it doesnt always reseal correctly. look at a seal on a jar( any jar baby food for example) after you open it the edge of the jar leaves an indentation, so the seal is pretty much garbage onces its been opened. using a rubber seal is what works best however this stuff will deform if not eat most rubber seals so a special rubber needs to be used hence the cost of chemical jars On non opened jars the chemicals in the paint will break down the seal over time. Oh forgot to add. like all chemicals they will build a gas in the jar a gas will cause pressure, this can be caused by minute temp changes and barametric changes the weakest link is the seal the pressure will escape from the seal over time.

So far the only thing I found was this Fluid Bed - Ohio Game Fishing Community there was a much better one somewere but I havent been able to find it.

Paper clips are great for suspending wires and hooks and such. or you can take a dremel and cut a hook pocket in it. As far as putting the plastic around the jighead and glass bead, you might just drop the glass bead part cause it won't serve any purpose imbedded in plastic. it wont be heard so to speak. Don't forget covering lead in plastic also takes away the sound the lead makes when hitting rocks. They are nice like that if you don't worry about sound. Westy worms here in AZ were really good, they started covering the lead head a few years back and they don't work near as good. most guys cut the plastic away from the head.

I understand what he is talking about I think its packaging. I assume you mean when your putting the worms in the bags they are bending and kinda stick to the bag. just use a few drops of worm oil. for example what I do is pour a bunch of worm let them cool toss them in one of aprils tupperware containers drop a few drops of oil on then and mix the worms up. then they slide into the bags nice and easy. a few drops of that stuff goes a long way and won't be noticeable Is that what your asking? Delw

Worm oil is basically used for one thing and one thing only and thats to get people to buy baits. worm oil makes baits look alive in a store people like to sqeeze the packages if they see a bait nice and shiney and moves easily they will buy it wether the bait catchs fish or not. On store shelves bags of baits dont last very long so generally people don't notice it. anybait with salt in it will absorb the oil and swell the baits also one other thing to look at is worm oil doesnt have UV inhibators, why I have no clue but the don't so leaving bags of worms with worm oil in them they may show a slight yellow tint to them if contacted with sunlight Its pretty much the same for all oils, especially with salt in the baits that will ever draw moisture. ever leave a senko on the deck of your boat for a long time? it will grow1.5-2times the size in dia. think of a bait with salt as a sponge. personally I would just drop a few drops of scent and be done with them or nothing at all.

yeah I should have mentioned that better. I got side tract. that comes with the camera automatically, the one I was talking about gives you photoshop like features in your camera before you shoot the pic at least thats the way my daughter explained it to me. you can adjust color right on your big screen monitor and basically what you see on the screen is what you get when you hit the button to take the pic.

I was hoping the SLR I got shot videos and SLRS dont which really sucked. I mentioned the pc camera thing to my daughter last night, she said that there is some program or attachment to photoshop that will let you ( if you have the camera option, mine was listed) go directly into photoshop and shoot the pics from there with all the tweaking that photoshop gives. Didnt make any sense to me cause she was talking in tech terms she goes to a local CC for photoshop and some other things.

Gary yup the remote shutter cable, I was really surprised not to see a place for it when I bought a digital SLR, then my daughter was reading the book and said I could use the computer and a usb cable and do everything from the pc. That just blows my mind. Cameras have come a long way since the old 35mm stuff. it took me a bunch if years before I would even consider a digital, then Mom and dad got me one for by birthday it was cool hadnt used a 35mm since. then about 4-5 years later I got a really nice cannon. Now I am ready for a newer bigger one

I have one of those wal-mart tripods I got as a gift and I have a full size alum one that I bought long ago. the wally world one moves a little bit and is not sercure when you click the button. make sure all the joints and everything are screwed down tight I use it when I am shooting the pics from my computer instead of actually touching the camera. however when I am touching the camera or not near the pc, I use the heavy duty ones, you can run a really slow shutter speed and have crystal clear pic. I end up setting the light tent on a dinner table and the bigger tripod works perfect

you can buy it at a fiberglass or body shop, I believe its its chopped up fiberglass. it will make your baits stiffer. flour will do the same thing as well as salt. cab-o-sil will cloud your baits up. Delw

no flash, set the camera to the type of light you are using and adjust the shutter speed. use the camera on manual settings and also try to use the macro ( butterfly picture is macro) Thats what is nice about digitals you can keep shooting and not waste money.

You must shake/mix your plastic every time before you use it no matter what brand you are using. The plastisizer is heavier then the softner they use to make it with so plastic will settle/spererate heavier stuff being on the bottom lighter stuff being on the top. Some plastic settle/seperate faster than others but they ALL settle/seperate. If you don't you will not get the same results each time you cook it.

pouring when cold is not the problem just make sure everything is room temp. The problem lies in that if your pouring in a cold enviroment and you sit you anchor or pyrex with hot plastic down on a cold counter top is will more than likely explode. thats the only explosion I think you will find.

heres the one i made a year or 2 ago, actually found the org link on a search it took me about 20 mins tops. I didnt glue anything as the PVC was tight enough fitting. the lights you use are very critical in how the picture comes out. white bed sheets work fine for a cover. I have 3 lights on mine. if you go cheap on lights you will see what a difference it makes. also make sure you have the correct setting in your camera. I am able to hook my camera up to a PC and take a picture form there so I can go a very slow shutter speed. Light Box / Light Tent Photo Gallery by Bill Huber at pbase.com I just searched pvc light box

There should be a post on the board somewere were a guy was getting the inside coated with ceramic, and or teflon. the outfit if I remember correctly was in texas.

Heat gun and point the tube top towards the top. Or make one last dip and spin the mold while its pointing upwards

I believe it was before the server crash, it was pretty detailed and had pics, may have been 2+ years ago? I can vaugley remember the post and it was by someone who used to post alot and hasnt been around in a while.

I've looked and can't find it saw it last year but not now. were is the link on how to build a fluid bed? I need to build a bigger one for some bigger parts . Delw

Theres a few things that will cause these types of bubbles, if its the ones I am thinking of. They been a pain in my ass for the last 4 years, havent seen them in 2 years, not seeing them as of our last shipment either. This problem has cost me thousands and thousands of dollars in the past to find the cause in outside testing and cure. There are so many different things that cause bubbles that no one can really trouble shoot them with out actually seeing them. Calhoun doesnt even have a clue most of the time. If its the ones I have seen its a viscosity issue like on one batch in the past(2 years ago) viscosity issues are basically the formula is in specs but as at the top limits or bottom limits, and the plastic is a little to thick to let the bubbles rise and pop freely especially in a microwave. I've touched on it in the past and kajan just mentioed it as well. An oven works best to cook all plastics no if's an's or Butt's about it, second is the hot pot and third is a microwave. The microwave is believe it or not the worst thing to use out of the three. It heats plastic way to fast and doesnt allow a even heat to the plastic, you can notice this by watching it heat and then you will see most of its perfectly clear but on the sides and bottom its tinted white. this is un cooked plastic, just haveing it sit for a while will actually cook the uncooked plastic, it needs to be stirred. Don't get me wrong a microwave works great but its not even close to being the best, you will get clearer and deeper colors if you use an oven or stove and have less problems. if its not a viscosity issue (aka Surface retention)its more than likely moisture, moisture is a funny thing as most people don't understand it. just having you container sitting on the floor will cause condensation in any plastic. haveing sunlight hit it will cause condensation, hot and cold enviroments will cause it( fluctuation in temps). The microwave will cause it faster than anything else. if your house is 60º your plastic is lets say 60º then you pour it into a cup and ut it in the microwave and hit the button, 3 mins later your at 350º in three mins you went 290º in tempature that causes mositure. were as on a stove or in an oven the moisture is burned off over a longer period of time. right now the eastern USA is experiancing drastic weather changes warm hot ice cold, this all effects the plastic. in the winter time is typically when you will see bubbles exist and in high humidity times as well but not as often as when its cold. Can it be fixed? Yes and no, the typical fix for this is let the plastic set for a few mins just till it starts cooling off then zap it again until its to the pourable stage that you like. a Temp guage won't help as its does nothing to begin with except just tell you what temp your plastic it. during certain times of the year and always from batch to batch and hardness to hardness your temps will be slightly different, its best if you going by pourabilty and how it looks. Harder plastic will also cause more bubbles that softer plastic in most cases. but I have seen it in the reverse as the batchs are never made at the same time. Sometimes but not always you can thin your plastic out by adding just a few drops of softener and missing it very well. Now I assume your are just pouring straight plastic with no additives like salt or scents? if you are using additives such as salt and scents then disreguard everythign which I just wrote as you have a different type of bubble problem. Its not limited to Calhoun I have seen M-F do it and Lurecraft have do it. Calhoun tends to have more problems with surface retention than others and only in the winters with extream cold, this winter is one of them.Usually the Lurecraft and M-f are moisture related issues and not surface retention. One other thing sence bubbles rise to the top this is why sometimes pouring pots are a good thing as they won't put the bubbles into your plastic like pouring them from a pyrex or anchor cup. Delw

you know thats cool that you brought up laminates I never seen a dent in one as well makes one wonder doesnt it.

this might help the coversation quick search found these pics this pic is a dent or what I would consider a dent, as the plastic hit the side then was pulled away during the cooling process. this would fall into daves deal about the vaccum same picture but closer view this is a void or what I would consider a void, trapped gas cause this. I get mixed up and takling about them and should be more specific as to voids or dents.

wait wait, we were talking about the diamond tail not stiks huge difference. Remember he wasnt using salt in the diamond tail, salt will cause a different type of dent. I guess I should have gave a definition of them as I see them. A dent will have the form of a the bait but dented in like the org. picture of the stickbait in the guys pop mold. shanes Sf mold was dents not voids. what I should have called 152nd streets was a void were its just a missing section.( I have seen it before on some diamond tails) its trapped gas causing the plastic not to be able to flow to the mold surface. happens on some claws and pinchers of baits as well. I got some pics I am sure of many different dents voids and other imperfections from over the years. I will look for them tonight and give a definition. when I hear dent I am thinking of something like the picture in the org post. bb in a few let me see if I can find some pics. Delw