Delw

amber with some brown or black added to it is pretty nice

Flo pink( red will work also) with a touch of black grape then in the highlight add a few drops of black grape

She is always looking for bags, she had thought of doing some custom orders but thats a ton of cash to lay out only for one size and to be honest everyone has a different size they want. You may want to talk to April, she does all that stuff. only thing I do is run machines and get in trouble

Mike put it up on ebay there has been a few people that have doen it over the years and sold lots of it.

to make your own motor oil you need about 6-8 different colors. motor oil has these colors in it as far as I can tell purple, a weird shade of red, chartruse, a light green, yellow, blue which looks to be black grape a green that looks to be transparent. sometimes when we get our colors in bulk they are not mixed 100% so I see the different colors they mix in them to make them. what is weird almost every color has chartruse or yellow and a purple in it.

most swimbaits are open pour so injection wouldnt work. if this is an open pour bait ( sounds ike it do to 2 and 3 color pours) the ONLY way to do it is to have lots of molds and multiple pouring pots. ( you can inject it if the molds are remade for 3 color and its costly). California swimbabes and most if not most of the other big swim bait manfacuters use labor and lots of molds with a person at each pouring pot, they just fill it up to what ever depth then slide it down to the next person. ( like an assembly line). then manufacture fans to cool the molds off for faster turn around time. if you have a good master make your molds out of resin in the long run it will be more expensive due to you have to remake them after x amount of pours as they were out/break etc. you also wont get the really fine detail. but it works and works very good. The master needs to be made out of something hard, wood aluminum steel brass etc. this way it wont bend when pouring resin and every bait will be exact. if you use a soft master your baits will never be 100% correct because you wont always be able to get the master in the mold perfectly. if your mechanically inclined a few stepper motors a control system some pots and a few odds n ends and you can be running pretty cheap, if your not mechanically inclined then your going to have to pay someone who is or do it like some ways mentioned. if 20-50k is no problem then looking into a automated set-up like robo worms is a possibility and one - two people can run it. or you can inject them. in the high end swimbait workd the robo worm system is the best and most effeciant set up avail. again that all depends on what your bait looks like and the bottom line of how much money you have to spend. if you don't have 20+k start small and work your way up with molds and high quality pots and maybe a helper or 2. There are a bunch of ways to do it, its just how you want to start it off.

Stephen For someone who owns a bussiness in mexico your the first honest person I met ( thats a compliment). I am guessing the only way your going to get the answer on a formula is to do alot of searching, No one ( manufactures) will tell you how to make it.

King if you do see him this weekend Kick him in the nuts for me and tell him I said hi. Fins a good friend sucks taht he had to move to nebraska, but on the brightside maybe I have a place to go deer/pheasant hunting this year

Quality pouring pots and enough molds that by the time you get done pouring the 1st ones are cold enough to take out of the first mold. Quality pouring pots are a MUST. Stay warm pots are good pot.

Thats what it was baby oil

no only dip up to the edge of the colorado blade, the tail in the back will always have a hole in it. its no biggy as it doesnt hurt anything and the org bass trix baits are the same. did you see the pic on how the back of the tail part is narrow? Thats how big the hole will be.

Most people add it like they do glitter, some guys that make stik baits don't add salt and add the glow stuff only as its very heavy. Its kinda like a ghost greenish/yellow color. it works but only if you charge it, charge meaning give it intense light either by sun or better yet a flash from a camera after it sits in the sun. I used to use it for spoons and painted the stuff on the spoons through and air brush. as far as it working on fish I think its all confidence, there was 2 years of fishing tournies were I couldnt catch fish spooning with out it spooning. My partner was using a regular spoon I was using the ones I painted left them in the sun that flashed them with a camera flash. I would catch alot more fish. I thought they were the best then I didnt have any for one seaosn and did all right so I think its confindence.

you might wat to look into the post office, sometimes(but not always) the post office is cheaper and less hassle to ship over seas than UPS and brokers. canada, south africa australia and every other country has tarriffs and tax's, the post office for some reason doesnt charge those or at least full rate.

That size is impossible to find in a 7"x5" laminated bag April has searched for years to find different sizes, she has even looked into buying a machine to make the bags and still comptiplating it. you can special order laminate bags but you need to order 20k-30k of each size (I guess that is one run) for it to be cost effective. also be careful as the make 3 types of different laminated bags, the ones we get don't leak They are a pain in the butt to open but dont leak, others leak when you turn them upside down. I always assumed finding bags in those sizes would be easy ie short height and wide, they are the hardest ones to find, go figure.

Ed there are 2 very good threads on this about last year early this year(just search bass trix and posts by Delw), i will try to find them later this evening. there are pictures and the stuff you need to make them and how to make them. the best and cheapest way is to braze them using a kitchen knife and a spinner bait blade. in all honesty I would just buy them cause its not worth the time to make, thats just me though. I dont sell the dippers any more and won't took way to long on the machine and it wasnt cost effective for me to do it on a cnc, not to mention it backed me up 3 months.I have to finish up 2 custom ones then anything left over if anything will be sold. I am only making the molds now. it normally takes 3-4 dips, with the last dip being the tail some guys dip twice on the tail to have it thicker. the whole key is how hot your plastic is. that will determine the thickness, the way you hold the dipper will determin the shape. I know guys that have made perfect ones there very first time, and I know guys that it took weeks to get right. Just remember the way you hold the dipping wand after you dip it and heat and you will be fine.

you may be able to look it up on google, no one that maufactures it will tell you whats in it. You may want to try to get ahold of scott over at sr plastics he makes the california swimbabes stuff in mexico, he may or maynot share the info on how he gets it hrough DONT Smuggle it in Gas Cans south of the border either cause if you get caught its big time fines and jail time

look for some post from alworms a few years back, if I remember correctly olive oil makes the baits hard or bleed or something. It might be another type of oil to, I just remember them all talking about it a bunch of years ago.

were are th voids squigster? can you put up or send me a picture? I am thinking the voids are caused do to the plastic cooled while shooting it. the netcraft bait I couldnt help you on it cause I don't know what it looks like. be really careful with an air compressor, anything over 3-4lbs of pressure with Haunt you for life.

squig, I am not following this coversation really well are you trying to inject plastic into a alum grub mold so you dont have to pour the tail seperate? if you are you need to drill a 1/32 hole at teh very type of the tail 1/16 is best because most guys dont have a drill press and only have a hand drill. hand poured molds are not made for injecting as they dont have bleed holes, you DONT need to pre heat the mold either as it wont make any difference. if you put a bleed hole in the tail you could pour down the body then shoot air into it with the hand injector then finish pouring the body, just keep your plastic on the hot side. with out a bleed hole you just cant do it. Vaccum wont work on a alum mold with a long tail like that due to the plastic cools off to fast

The company I used to buy all my fiberglass for boat work sold pretty much everything to make molds, they had hundreds of different products ranging from high to low. alot of it had to due with shrinkage as to how it was priced. as far as color its hard to say cause every product has a a few different colors. we used the RTV cause that was the in thing back then (2001-2002). it worked and served the purpose we even tried the dental stuff ( cause we used it by the case for our inspection dept.) that stuff had very little shrinkage but after a few weeks it got brittle and cracked plus it was pretty expensive. I have heard of guys using window silicon some say add a little water and its suppose to work really well. Delw

King are you sure you got RTV molds and not another type of resin or other mold? RTV is very expensive even if you buy it in 5 gallon increments. Lots of people call other flexible molds RTV molds and there not the same type when bobby and I were making them when back when for our personal use, RTV molds were costing us like 15-25 bucks each to make and that was just enough for 5 dropshot worms with a 3/8 of rtv between the bait and the bottom and 1/2" on each side.

A knife is dangerous if you dont take precautions in using it just like everything in everyday life. While I dont reccomend the plastic injectors, due to there melting point is around 350-375 degrees. I do know they work and you wont get hurt if you wear protective full length gloves and a face mask. Just like your wouldnt gas/arc weld without gloves and eye protection. I burned my hand extreamly bad back in 2002 or 2001 cause one melted. it wasnt the injectors fault is was mine and Bobby's. I was stupid enough to hold the mold together while bobby was using the injector and squirting plastic in. one way to use them is too pour your plastic in then use teh injector to shoot air in, then finsh pouring. bottom line is you still have to have common sence when using anything

someone on the board might, I only make aluminum molds

I dont know about breaking down, but they will start to give off a dull finish after a while. this can be fixed by sticking them in the oven for around 100º which brings out the oils and gives you a shinny finish again. I think you can do it up to 5 times? I have one at the house that is over 7 years old, it still looks new and is flexible Chris with al's worms knows alot about RTV and the shiney finish, he has posted alot about it in the past.

an aluminium mold you won't crack or break one in half, UPS even tried to run one over and the only thing that survived was the mold. they won't bend either unless you use a press.nor will they wear out, they will also bring about the same amount you paid for them 7 years later when you decide to sell them. if you drop one the only thing you will do is nick and edge, then you just take a file and file it flat. Molds are like tools the better the quality the more they will cost. that all being said there are some baits that alum wouldn't be justifiable to make and RTV or pop would be much better and cheaper. as far as RTV being cheaper, its a toss up RTV isnt cheap and it takes a bunch to make a mold, getting 10-20 molds out of a 100 bucks worth of RTV seems like alot, most guys get 2-3 out of the $25 jar ( 16oz?). The cheapest would be pop and the baits are just as good if not better than RTV. RTV does have its advantages and one being able to pour very small extremities with out the plastic setting up. RTV lets the plastic flow extreamly nice and into thin areas which with a aluminum mold maybe difficult or not able to do at all. the biggest difference in a alum mold vs a pop or rtv mold is the perfectness of the bait and it being symetricle(sp) on pop and RTV and other stuff you have to pour over a master to make your mold its only as good as your master, if its crooked then so is you finished product. alumin is computer drawn and is symetricle through out.ie all extreamities match etc. The detail on RTV doesn't come out near as good as POP becuase RTV is thicker. if you want to make lots of molds for cheap use fiberglass resin, just dont drop them cause they will shatter but for 100 bucks you can get alot more than 20 molds. Also fiberglass will give you very good detail if your master has it. I've made quite a few molds with fiberglass and RTV a long time ago and the fiberglass was the one I liked best