Delw

that was the post.

someone posted a heat lamp melting pot on here a long time ago( and I have been told by some of my customers they use them to keep plastic warm but not cook it that way), even showed some pics and explained how it worked, They said it never burned plastic to.

The insert I am talking about is a line insert which is just basically a straw. its a line guide so to speak. I had a picture up a while ago on the bait that used them but can't find it. it doesnt act as a weight or anything just something to slide your line through to hold the treble hook on the bottom so your line doesnt cut the nose of the bait to crap. They are made out of soft plastic like explained above. 3:16 uses them on some of there baits I forget the exact name of the bait.

I was just reading the wire thread, Guess what the plastic outside would wok perfect for inserts on swimbaits. in the past we talked about using RC car antena stuff but it does melt in really high heat, wire coatings on the other hand would be perfect. So some of you guys that use a plastic line insert for certain types of baits might want to consider wire insulation, just get some GOOD strippers and strip off a section. besides you can use red and simulate a blood line

Not everyone gets the cracks and lines. if the molds are left at room temp you should be fine. the heating up molds got a little blown out of proportion so to speak. some molds with fine extremities will be helped when the mold is warm, however usually the 1st pour will warm the mold enough(not always). alot also has to due with how hot the plastic is and what volume of plastic the mold holds. Ie more volume with allow the plastic to stay hotter longer and reduce cold cracks. now guys that pour in the winter in there garage or live in cold climates have problems but not everyone and its usually more in the winter than in the summer when the problem exist.

in most case you dont need to warm up alum molds to pour. if you want fancy colors its a good idea to make the blends work better ie looks like its part of the bait. A griddle works perfect and they are pretty cheap, plus you can pour while the heat is on.

use a spray lube for rilfe case's dillions works good thats a great releacing agent. April has the 10" and a few others in less cavities too

never buy any cameras/electronics through ebay or online cause its not like you can go into the store and kick there #$$. I paid 200 bucks more for my cannon with alot less accesories and bought it local just because of this. Online though I do trust Dell Computers, they also sell cameras and Tvs and they are just as cheap as places on ebay and online. My wifes lap top is from Dell and we have had no issues and when we needed something for it it was fixed immediatly.

Heres the part number page 3 post #21 http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/11363-making-presto-pot-stirrer-3.html and down 2 posts is how to make the paddles

Yamamoto twin tail on a 1oz football head with a matching skirt, both shallow and deep

Lee makes 2 pots one for softplastic and one for lead, they are both Identicle (or were 2 years ago) the only difference is the thermostat inside. DONT use the lead pots for plastic as they wont work even on the lowest settting.

bait casters are fine, spinning reels tend to roll frogs when they get close to the tip

I have come to the conclusion that anything round will work so its just up to your imagination and what junk you have lieing around LOL every time I make a tube they come out perfect, lol I only mess them up when I cut the tails. so now I give them to my 7 year old she likes to cut stuff up lol. I dont make many tubes maybe a few here and there before a tourny, I just started getting into using tubes( meaning I am going to use them alot this year) here in AZ most guys don't use them here.

Squigster, something got me to thinking, are you using a spinner reel or a bait caster?, a spinning reel will cause a frog to roll the closer its gets to the rod tip, what you do in that case is turn your rod 45-90 degrees from the bait. does the frog always roll the same direction when its closer

nordoor I havent tried the carbons but the xx75 arrows burn your fingers after 2 dips. a pencil can be shoved in one side to hold it so it doesnt burn. I am betting the carbons wouldnt get hot to fast

push rods from a car would work really well and if the rod was coated in light oil you could use a airgun to blow the tube off the rod instead of pulling it. push rods are pretty smooth, good idea I never thought of that. They are also about the right dia,

typically they are dipped 3 times to achieve the thickness,how hot your plastic is will determin how thick they will be. Basically you will dip it until you have the desired thickness. a #2 pencil or even a round tent stake works fine. if you have a home depot close there are lots of things that will work.

ooops Bar sounds good about now and I don't drink, but it should have been a bag

its humidity, baits with salt sweat, they need to be kept in a bar or a dry place out of the sunlight. they are pretty much shot, you might be able to dry them out in the oven if you run 100º for a while

Teh waterdogs are like a med. brown /black with a lighter brown streaks. Oh wait I have a pic of one but it has a hook through its head let me get it. if you look at the back part of the tail on the left side thats what color they are most of the time, this one is a early spring one and is green. also the browner ones have the strips that you did. when I first saw the pic of yours my imediaty thought was hey that looks like a waterdog, including the shape. Disclaimer: the waterdog in this picture was a stunt double, he was not hurt or harmed in anyway shape or form due to his training, this is what waterstunt dogs do for living. He was swimming beautifully after 5 3lb bass at a local pond. he did look a little tired however when we last saw him he was in the mouth of a 6+lber fighting furiously to get out.

Dude you just made a bait color combo that looks almost exactly like a waterdog here in AZ if they were browns it would be Identicle

as long as they are dry you are fine

Smallie, only if the oxidation starts, oxidation is the biggest problem. that why the should be dry and also dont leave baits sitting in them for months that have salt in them. the salt will absorb moisture over time and that will start the oxidation process. Delw

Alum molds never use water or a damp cloth unless you dry them off 100% immediatly and 100% dry, keep the pins slightly lubricated with oil. If the mold is going to set for a few weeks or longer in the garage or basement and your in a place with high humidity don't keep the pics in them and its best if you keep the molds open. or at the very least keep those pins oiled in the holes. Silicon Molds: Damp cloth is fine or nothing at all is fine just make sure you don't pour hot plastic into your damp molds. POP Molds: I would assume that if they are sealed a damp cloth would be fine, but if they are not I think a damp cloth would eventually wear down the detail due to the water and rubbing.

to put the padidng on you have to reccess the floor or add 5/16 to the edges in height. I hought about it but damn thats alot of work.