Delw

Eric france and the central europe areas are extreamly expensive on there taxs for plastic, I heard they had another tax just with in the last year as well? didnt they BANN it from some parts also this year? the shipping isnt bad and the price of the plastic isnt bad, but once you toss in the taxs and tarriffs it exceeds over $500 per 5 gals in some towns and countries, I thought bosnia was bad, but france and some of those other countries are extreamly expensive. you. the other thing you can do is if you know someone that has a factory over there, they can get it shipped by freight to there location and its cuts out alot of the red tape, still expensive but I heard that its less than half of what it would be to private party. get a drum or 4 and you would be sitting on a healthy chunk of change for your investment. I know a few guys we have sold to over there sells it buy the pint for what we in the US pay for 2 gallon just to break even USPS on 1 gal overseas isnt bad as far as shipping, and I think you still have to pay the tarriffs and taxs which is what add's up, even if its from a member or someone that isnt a business I belive your still liable for the taxs and tarriffs correct?

It all depends on the bait. RTV POP Fiberglass and other Molds along with alum all have there place. Alum. molds will cure faster and give a perfect bait due to most of the time its made on a perfect machine using a cad system so every cavity is the same not to mention symetrical. the DOWN side to alum molds is one the cost and 2 you cant pour very fine grooves and tails like you can in a pop mold as the plastic hardens up faster in alum molds. RTV you can pour some very small features as well with other NON-Metal Molds, there really is NO best unless you specify a particular bait your trying to produce. for example take a 1 pcs open pour mold that has alot of fins on it. the fins are approx .025 wide and theres like 20 of them ( canyon plastics dropdshot bait with that zipper style head) its impossible ( yes I said it) to pour in a alum mold open face mold even if you heat the mold to 250 degrees on a griddle, you will never get a good pour. with a RTV mold and a pop or fiberglass mold you can pour it pretty easily just by filling the body and letting the grooves fill up RTV is almost a cake walk due to rtv being ver slick and smooth. injecting a 2pcs one with a hand injector isnt too bad but the molds needs some special features put in it so it works and fills the cavities, the problem is the time it takes to cut those little features and the little grooves as well. Delw

Ya'll forgot one other senerio. EMAILS using HOTMAIL, AOL,MSN ect accounts some severs are blocked, due to named servers for the most part considered spam. so the replies may go into the trash heap depending on there settings. AOL is ruthless for blocking emails from named servers. on the same note some emails dont come through all the time on foriegn countries do to the server is considering them spam ( works boths ways) especially mail servers like hotmail, my mail and some others free email accounts. Madeye. if this is from us, I checked with april and she has no emails from your part of the country that have gone UNanswered, I have no idea who you are by your nick. if you ordered from us use this email addy as it dont block anything del-mart@cox.net or goto my forum and post it under personal customer support. Phone sucks for these guys out of country and they have to rely on emails or forums, then on top of that alot of foriegn emails are blocked by servers do to spam. Oh and I am the bad one for emails, as I spend most of the time in the shop and dont check them in my office but maybe every 3 days or so, thats why April gets all the emails cause she will answer them in a hour or so if she gets them. Delw

did you by chance get that mold off of ebay? reason I ask is it looked like a scrap one that was made many years ago. as there are no airvents in it. There should be airholes in the wings, and at the end of the feet, the later modles had a few others as well. they poured fine from the begining the smally one poured the best of all of them. as far as injecting then theres a few problems. first it needs a air vent between each cavity the width of the mold, then you need to scribe a airvent from each wing to the airvents between the cavities. for the airvent between the cavities use a hack saw as its no big deal. for the wing ones use a slotted screw driver tip and scribe the line( pull towards you its easier) then you need to press those screws out and hand lap the faces of both sides flat. lay a pcs of 180 wet dry paper on something very flat. coat the paper with wd-40 then do a figure 8 with the mold. a few times. then press screws back in and your ready to go. the reaosn you need to put a airvent in between each cavity is so when your shooting one cavity the air wont got to the one you just shot causing dimples another reaosn why injection molds need to be very flat. one other thing, you may want to delete that pic so you dont get a letter from Andre's Lawyer. I got one thats why I quit making them. Delw

anything in the forsale section gets moderated ie I enable it. I have gotton a spam bug and get about 200 posts a day that my spam catcher catches and most of the time I miss the good nes for bad ones and delete them by mistake. I also got some corrupted files in there somewhere, and to to make matters worse I havent been there in 2 weeks YIkES. We been working on our new shopping cart for the last 2-3 months and its pretty much taken every bit of time we have, so between me being in the shop working with NO internet and april handling the shopping cart and emails, Ive neglected it. I am upgrading it here soon as the shopping cart is finished. hopefully by nov1. you can always shoot an email or phone call if there is something you need. I only get online while I am in the office having a cigerette. or very late at night when I go home Delw

I dont know man, with your vast knowlege and experiance in glitters, microwaves and pouring baits I guess I should have listened to you. BTW I never said it was Safe nor have I ever said it was unsafe. I said metal glitters work fine in the microwave and Has been for years. I bet in 10 years I have only heard of a handfull of people having issues. like I said thousands of pounds of gliiter has gone through my shop in about 10 years, but what do I know Delw

one last time. it all has to do with reflectability thats makes the mirco waves bounce it has nothing really to do with color nor does it have to do with metal vs plastics. it was already aired on Myth busters they did a show. a very lengthy one too. they even put 4 microwaves together in one unit to blow it up. and heat metal bars, but since the metal bars had no H2o in them they didnt get hot. take a piece of tin foil and put it in the mircowave it will bounce and arc. explained in detail on mythbusters as well. also go get some very shiny mylar in silver or gold even black. it will arc as well if you crumple it up. Dave cool info and link thanks Mark we have been selling alum glitter since day one almost 10 years, so if you got it from use its alum, unless it was a holocolor then its the high temp mylar type. it sparks if dropped in clumps especially the black holo. which is the coolest color glitter around. If I ever buy my new Gambler it will be in the black holo color. Delw

Frank its not your supliers fault no matter who it is. is the nature of the beast, wether it did it once twice or never. shinny objects are not microwave safe, they never have been.and there used to be/still are? warnings (in the manual) not to use shiney stuff and metals in a microwave we ( the user) just makes things work. reheats wont help any either as there is still glitter in it,and its shiny. you know plastic was not meant to be heated in the microwave either, it was tried out of cuiosity back in 2000/2001? by Chris(on the board here/Al's Worms) then me and a few other guys. we were talking about different ways to heat plastic on the old tacklemaking.com board. someone mentioned it and I think chris was the first to try it. its been used ever sence. still to this day a microwave doesnt work with plastic 100%, your colors are duller the baits are a tad stickyer, the plastic is thicker etc etc. it works but not near as good as it does with real heat. compare them with heating plastic in a oven or pot and you will notice a better plastic and brighter and truer colors. A microwave however does work really well if you heat it hot then stire the crap out of it let it sit for a while, not letting it get cold then heat sit and heat. And when you think your done heating it in the microwave its still cooking, there could be a 50-75 even 100º difference in the middle to the outside. you can see this on the edges of your pyrex dish as the plastic is still white ie uncooked. The microwave really aint the best thing to use unless you need it fast and and to look ok, kind just like the way food in the microwave taste's. Delw

Frank I found out the hard way also, Just dumped it in hit the but turned around the the thing was arcing like a monsoon storm, one time it even caught fire.. found that the plastic glitter from the craft stores( milar stuff) is even worse and catchs fire quick. The culprit has nothng to do with being alum anodized glitter or plastic/mylar. it all has to do with reflectability thats makes the mircowaves bounce. its actually hard to get clumps to spark the angles have to be just right. Alum foil is the same way. The Warden has been selling alum glitter from Day 1 and I am talking thousands and thousands of pounds over the last 10+ years, while people always thought metal was a bad thing in a microwave it was not it didnt discolor like non alum glitters, Over the years pretty much everyone changed to alum glitter as it doesnt bleed near as much or melt near as much as the other glitter. Delw Delw

Glitter sparks due to reflectiveness only in a micro wave the cups and the glitter sparking are more of a coincidence more than anything else, as glass wont break du to sparking especially Pyrex. if your glitter is sparking try to stir it before you put it in, clumps of glitter are tons worse then when its coated with plastic and or mixed in. on reheats if your glitter is on the bottom in big clumps break it apart and rehear the other stuff first then slowly drop the chunks of glitter in it. plastic glitter is far worse for sparking then metallics due to the shininess of them(mylar glitters)? I caught a few microwaves on fire by just dumping the glitter in or during reheats and not nixing the stuff before I heat it I microwave is pretty cool in the way it heats things, it uses water molecules to heat with. no water present nothing will heat. having say that the shininess of any object will make microwaves bounce which in turn it will show sparks. a bunch of years ago on myth busters was a really cool show on microwaves and everything we thought we knew about microwaves was 100% false.

because a Iges file can be manipulated if someone wanted to screw with a vendor a PRINT its a bit harder to doctor up. I dont trust electronic files . Also using different programs to open a iges file made from one program tends to give differnt dimensions when they use polylines. ie it depends on how the incoming progam splits them into segments. On bait molds and other stuff + or - .005 is usually ok, however if your running stacked dimensions or true positions to a file that was turned into a polyline you will get some different results, when running angles off of certain reference points the angles are a tad off. Maybe its just the way the ORGS were drawn but my buddies shop usually has to redraw in ACAD and prints then resave to get the proper EXACT dims. Delw

The best way to do this is to shread it after you cook it, No glitter should be in the color at all. Glitter is what really messes up reheats. I have a few customers that use a meat grinder and shred the plastic. then the heat it up slow. one of them even uses the micro, most use sta warm or big commercial pots but all do shred the plastic to be successful in it. If you do it with salt in the plastic all ready the salt mixes alot better after shredding it. there is a huge benifit from what I am told to doing this when you have weighted plastic with salt. one of them is your colors will come out clearer. Delw

Dave I was kinda shocked too. there is a spec for fillets chamfers and tolorances, this was also R&D a complete assembled part, that might have something to do with it?. I hadnt done boeing and hoenywell work for a few years and alot has changed sence then. we used to get a operation sheet(more like a book) for the entire part proccess as we always made the parts complete before. Delw

Fishoey when making a "CAD" file remember a few things, the bait you are drawing is going to be completely reversed to produce a mold. so lets says you have a sharp corner on the outside of the bait, in the mold it will need to be a radius as a tool wont cut a sharp corner. as the tools are round. this is for a CNC mill to run them, if you get your molds burned ie EDM, the shop will make a electrode exactly like your bait then burn it into the metal making a cavity. however the cost is high due to the fact they have to cut a electrode just like your bait then burn it into the mold. also any chamfers and fillets you have on edges try to design them the biggest that you can use. Basicall all outside radius and chamfers ona bait are the inside of the mold lets use the "BEAVER" body for example you know how the ribs on the body are pretty sharp? the radius looks to be approx 1/64 a 1/32 endmill will run extreamly slow due to the diameter is very small so light cuts need to be taken. light cuts and slow feed = more time on the cnc and more time on the cnc = more money it will cost. I try to get people to use no smaller than a 1/16" dia which is 1/32 rad. this will run decent but still cost more than using a 3/32 dia endmill. to give you a better example a 1/16 ball endmill will feed 2-2.5 times slower than a 3/32 endmill. and depending on the bait your running could add up to and hour or more of time. on occasion I will use a .046 dia endmill. Dont get me wrong if you need a part that is very sharp then people will make it however it will also add alot to the part due to time. bottom line is the bigger the tool a shop can run the cheaper the part will be due to time. Dave, When I posted that I made some typos or got ahead of myself, these were machine files people wanted to send ie NOT the cad files. But like Ed said below a cad file can give someone a nightmare if its not made correctly. CNC Mills generally don't use a DXF file at the machine the will use a file generated by cam system. Haas machines had a option in the machine to run DXF files, I played with it and disconnected it as it was dangerous and unstable. if someone sends a DXF file to a person with a cad-cam system they can convert it to a machine file that the machine will understand, machine file meaning G-CODE file that cnc machines use. stp files work the best and are more dependable, Iges files are nice and I always thought the were good till I got one from being that was a nightmare. the part had alot of un attached segments and missed line, we spent 3 days reworking the iges cad file. Boeing doesnt like to use REAL blue prints anymore I guess, as they sent them only for reference and instructed us to ONLY use the IGES file. Unfortunately the designer who drew the Iges file winged it as he must have been using the same "Referance prints" we got as his dimensions were all made up LOL Solid works files are pretty darn nice.

Its a pretty simple Deal to make, you just use a revolve option in your cad-cam system and it will create the proper radius, or you could write it by hand in just a few lines and loop the program for xxx amount of lines making the length. Bob were do you come up with this stuff? pull up some You tube vids and see what a 4th axis is and how it works. Any milling machine that is decent will do it. it can and WILL make a perfect circle with in a few .0001 yes three zeros and a 1 aka tenths roundness. A 4th axis has NOTHING to do with it nor can it even DO it any better, on a mill it only takes 3 axis's to produce a "perfect" round cavity. if you think a 4th axis is like a lathe thats not entirly true, a 4th axis will basically hold parts in a horizontial plane LIKE a Lathe. Most 4th axis's are indexers and not full 4ths meaning its for indexing only, a full 4th axis requires a driver and the proper software in the machine to make it a full 4th. then on top of that you need 4th axis software and a 4th axis code generator. not to be confused with 4th axis indexing. besides that a mold is generally 2 halfs meaning your only cutting one half of a circle so a 3 axis is perfect. 4th axis in the case( the way you explained it) would spin completely around 360 and cut the other side of the mold. if your talking about just rocking a 4th axis 180º with a ball endmill in the spindle it would be a oomplete waste of time and money not to mention your set-up would be a pain in the butt. and with backlash at a "few thousanths" you would get a worse finish and roundness out of the part then you would if you did it on 3 axis's. matter of fact you can cut a perfect circle for mold on a hand lathe using the a ball endmill and only sinking it in half the diameter. ie if you wanted a 1/2 tube you would sink a 1/2" ball endmill .250 deep into the part and you would get a near perfect 1/2" circle when the 2 molds are closed. perfect enough for a mandrell with some cuts outs for skirt legs would set in there and not get any bleed over or flashing. this is how the made tube molds way back when before they had cnc'c and cad-cam, systems. the cavity would be as good as the endmill is round. remember on a part like above your theroretically using 2 axis and the 3rd axis is just position to the next line to start another ARC.. ie your using your "Z" and your "Y" axis to interpulate the 180º circle or ARC, then you step over the "X" axis depending on the finish you want, and you wouldnt need a cad-cam system to do it either it could be in a sub rountine and just defining a g18 arc then looped x amount of times Having said that you can and I have done it and seen a 4th axis rotary table used as a lathe, however you wont get any speed, maybe 100rpms tops , then you have to mount a boring bar in a collet and lock your mill spindle down. this is not good to be doing on a cat 40 taper or anything less as it puts a tremendious amount of side pressure on the bearings. we did it on an acroloc with a 5 3/4" spindle( close to a cat 50) on inconel and it was only taking off .005 with a ceratip insert to give use a specially round part dimensioned to a protrusion out of the round part, that was mainly a mill job but requiered a roundnes at the very front edge. Back to the 4th axis stuff. There isnt to many molds that require a 4th axis especially for baits, I would say 99.99% of all the baits I have seen only need a 3 axis machine. the ONLY thing a 4th axis will do for a mold it make it do production faster. and save a set-up or 2. but a indexer will work just as well. I have a full 4th axis on one of my machines it was a 2k option plus a 9k rotary table, I have full 5th axis drives on the same machine but elected not to get the table cause it was running about 33k, it kick ass and its nice, However in the 1.5 years I owned the machine and literlly running thousands of parts I have only used it 3 times on the full 4th axis and about 4-5 times for indexing hole patterns,. Delw

John, I am guessing you dont need them that long? cut them off to the lengths you need with a abrasive wheel. a trick to using bits that long is drill guides I even use them on my cnc's when we have long tiny holes and have to reach very far down. a drill guide can be something simple or complicated, basically is a predrilled hole that is close to the dia just a tad larger. you can make your own drill bushings. on wood just peck drill as your flutes will build up fast when using non wood drill bits and seize and snap your drill. with a small dia hole always center drill your part first. Delw

McMastercarr used to sell cork. and theres some onther places as well. I'm guessing your using it for the corkey baits do a search online its hard to find the right size that was used in the corkey bait so you might have to turn it down a tad with a rasp file. oh yeah if this is who I think it Is your phone numbers dont work(disconnected) and I havent been able to get ahold of your for 3 months, I have some items for you that we discussed a while back. leave a msg or shoot me an email with a new phone number Delw

CaptRodney I got a email from you that asks however it wont let me reply, so i will post it here. The reason for the groove in the tip is so that you dont have to aling the drilled hole every time to the tube drilled hole, which can be a pain in the butt. attached is a small picture that shows were the pin/hole needs to go which might help Delw

Oops sorry about the spelling LOL was on the phone and typing.

I had posted last year how to do it, its very easy and for guys with just a hand drill this will help. put the injector together. on one of the sides us a 1/16 drill bit and drill all the way through. this is easier said than done so this step is important. find the spot you want to drill the hole at, turn it up so the drill bit is drilling down only drill just a tad for a starter hole in the tubing. then turn it so you drill down the left or right side. The starter hole is hard for most people using a hand drill on a round part going through a corner/side of tubing. so now that your hole is started get LOTS of WD-40 hose the bit down and start drilling, peck at it DONT drill all the way through in one pass and DONT go full bore on the speed, use LOTS OF wd40 for lubrication. now you have a injector with a hoel through the side. and it goes through the injector tip as well. take the tip out of the injector put a long bolt through the hole. double nut it and tighten it down. chuck one end in your drill IE redneck lathe. get a hack saw blade or saws all blade and run the injector tip WERE THE HOLE IS and make a slot. get some scotch bright and put a tad of wd-40 on it and turn the drill on it will take the burrs off. take bolts out of nozzle , take scotch bright and rub it on the inside of the tube taking the burr out of that as well. now put it together and you can drop a nail, pin or what have you through it. Always if possible put the hole and groove between the face of the tube and the o-ring not after the o-ring. quite a few guys use the pins that hold trailer pins on( the smaller versions) or they bend a nail so it doesnt fall through the hole. Hope that helps Delw

I made the post here first before I made the one on my forum. it went on for 2-3 months? quite a few pages long with very detailed info from alot of people. I couldnt find it either, but I know its here. however a while back Jerry Lost alot of info(posts) during a system crash or something and the host he was using had a corrupted back up so he couldnt save hundreds of posts. the post had the org one made with a knife blade and I also gave the spinner bait sizes to make the tails. it was before any molds or rods were out and just about th time when Basstrix made it big. I also think someone mentioned they worked for basstrix in the thread. maybe if someone has time they can search by date? I may have a copy of it burned on a cd somewere but it will take a while to look. Delw

Try purging your injector before you shoot the mold, you can be actually shooting air into the molds( your were saying you had 10 vents) to purger your injector suck up the plastic and hold the injector at a 60º angle, (spin it if you can) then slowly push the handle up till you get only plastic coming out, Kinda like what the doc does before he sticks than needle in ya. The other problem can be you have air bubbles in your plastic if you do than thats going to cause you problems as well Delw

if you have a drill press you can do it yourself. grab a 5/8 drill bit reduced shank. put the mold together and clamp it to the table . also use a C clamp amd make sure you put it between the 2 cavities that you are going to drill. go as slow as you can 100-300 rpm lots of wd-40 and you will be fine. remember a large drill bit will bite when it contacts a hole already cut so the mold must be fastened down very good. A dremel tool I would have to say NO but it would work it would just take for ever and wont be perfectly round, Not that you need it perfectly round. Delw

INjection will work on oldschool molds just fine however there are a few things that need to be mentioned. hand poured molds are not as flat as an injection molds, meaning when you put the 2 halfs together you will have a slight airgap on some of them. Its fine for hand pouring and actually helps flow the air though however on injection it tends to give you slag( if you want to call it that) and also it could force air into the next cavity that you just injected. to fix this is quite simple if you have to fix it. Best Way Take the bolts out using a c clamp and a socket ( poor mans press) then find a flat surface, Counter tops works, get some 220 grit wet dry sand paper, hose it down with wd-40. lay the face of the mold half on the paper and do a circle 8 or a circular motion with it. Try not to go a straight line as this throws ones side of the face off. Second best ( acceptable) you can also use a sanding block like they use in autobody with the same paper DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELECTRIC OR AIR OPERATED(Must be manual) of you will scrape your mold. To be honest everyone that has any alum molds should have a sanding block as over time you get nicks and dings on the faces and they dont close flat. with a sanding block you dont have to take the bolts out however it does help. if air is a continual problem from one cavity to the next then you need to cut a small groove between each cavity its easy not that hard, but just make sure you Lap aka Sand it afterwords like mentioned above to take the nicks out. NO scotch BRIGHT remember you are lapping the faces flat so what ever holds that sand paper MUST be flat No Air or electric sanders Wet and dry PAPER ONLY ( the black stuff) 200-280 grit is best anything more and you will be wasting your time, anything less is fine but it will look like crap. Must use wd-40 or some lubricate .motor oil is not a good idea as it will stain the mold if not wiped off, Water degreasers( example zep floor cleaners and degreasers) DO NOT USE it will stain the alum also in a matter of a few mins. also dont worry about taking to much material off and making your bait thinner cause you can't,well I guess you could but it would take a few days to notice it For the injector part you will need a injector tip with a chamfered end, as most of the hand pour molds have a chamfer on them. Hope that helps Shit man sorry, I thought you were talking about using a injector on a hand pour molds. I didnt see the part( didnt read it) about the 2 color injector stuff. The molds would have to be reworked for that. Delw

Yours doesnt count, Yours was a custom mold that was way to small in dia for the rod size and I informed you MANY TIMES about it in the first place, but you still had to have it. so we made it to your specs and I ate it The tube molds are a little tricky to pour they plastic must be hot ,they inject nice, very hot plastic is needed. Injected tubes are the way to go unless your running a big dia tube , Tapered tubes pour with ease. Delw