Delw

I had one customer that fishes the delta a lot buy it, I didn't think they would sell no never put them online. In the next few days I will make one up and pour it get some pics. swampbaits its a big one no doubt about that. Delw

The 2 cavity mold runs about $160 its about 6" 3/8" long

Glue your eyes on then dip the bait in clear plastic. Delw

The vacuum pump doesn't work as good as one would think, We made one about 4 years ago using a AC vacuum pump the mold was for those small berkley trout worms. One of the major problems is the mold cools the plastic way to fast. this might be fixed by using POP or RTV since they stay warm longer, Alum tends to cool off too fast. the other problems are once the plastic gets down the the bottom were the vacuum port is it cools due to the air rushing from the top to the port. The one Guy I made the mold for used it but it wasn't as good pouring the bait then shooting air through a syringe from the top forcing the plastic to the bottom. Any air movement in the mold will cool the bait causing the plastic to harden up. If you want to try it you can get Vacuum pumps from Harbor freight for around 19 bucks. then home depot will have hose's and fittings and so will harbor freight. Or you can goto a local pawn shop and get vacuum pumps pretty cheap. use 1/8 fittings with 1/16-1/8 hose ends. or you can use a set of a/c gauges with quick connects. Let us know if you get it to work successfully as it would open some doors on different baits. we played with it for a few months and it wasn't 75% successful so we scrapped the idea . Delw Delw

Madtrapper heres a link with good info on it. http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9973

Here you go, one of my customers made this

5" worms probally about 800 depending on the thickness and depth

call me tomorrow at the shop, I am usually there really late 8pm-2am az time. On the lee pots they are really easy to do. pop out the 4 screws on the bottom turn the base and screw the screws back in. then raise it to the height you need. Make sure you screw it down some how other wise it will tip.

The berkley june bug red and black grape just like blue fleck but more bluefleck than red and then of course green glitter. or you can buy the junebug color and not mix it. every manufacturer has a different color Delw

Just raise the pot up in the air some, its very easy to make a stand out of 2x4's most people do it that way.

Try this for a visual take a round something and glue it to the thin part of a knife, O--- <<------looks like that that goes in the center of your mold. Hope that makes sence for the ease of explaining put that in a senko mold and pour around it.

its really easy make a mandral and use a very very thin piece to hold it place it in the mold pour the plastic. then pull the mandral out threw the section that was very thin. you will have a little gap, you can do a few things. leave it alone take a solder iron or hot knife and fuse it together or glue it together the slot in the bottom is gennerally made with .0625 flat material or less. I have a few hollow ones laying around like that but didn't think they would be a seller so I never put them online

This is a hard one to type but try to understand. There is no difference in the plastic but yet there is ( told you it was going to be tough) Some plastics will allow you to get hotter MF Calhoun and Lurecraft have different types of plastic as far as hardness m-f super soft wont be the same as lurecrafts super soft or Calhouns soft plastic. softener or hardener can fix that , that is why all three sell softener and harden cause everyone likes a different hardness In the heating if you heat one plastic to lets say 350 another plastic might turn yellow(start to burn) at 350 Having your plastic at 320 to be pourable for one manufacturer and then using another manufacturer you might have to adjust the heat to get the same viscosities(sp) The most common problem that people complain about is consistancy. What ever plastic you get you still have to make sure its mixed extreamly well, this will eliminate the consistancy part of it. l. Thats pretty much how it works Delw

The bait was sent to me by a guy back east, said it was discontinued, after we released I had some guys tell me who made it, a little while later it was re released. Its pours nice with salt. I pour them with salt. your plastic needs to be hot but not boiling hot.

my email has been slow today and yesterday. I only got 30-50 porn emails, 5 I can make you a multi millionaire and 2 when you coming home for dinner emails did you send me one Jim, as its not here. Email sucks. Hey I got one from 2 years ago from Idaho, just came in over the weekend, I have never recieved a 2 year old email

I been checking my email a lot and never seen one from anyone from sweden. shoot me a pm Delw

heres a place that you can get them from, this was on a board I frequent

What I am thinking he means is, there is a few guys that run around from shop to shop, plastic supplier to plastic supplier, bag supplier to bag supplier and things are happy, then BOOM for what ever reason they are the worst, then they move to the next guy, everything is fine then boom he gets slammed and so on and so on. its a never ending soap oprea with a few guys on this board. Basically it boils down to your going to make it right for me and give me a good deal and if you don't I am going to slam your butt on tackle underground or somewhere else on the internet. what these people fail to realize is that the people who sell and are doing the work are watching and reading and hearing things. Delw I've seen it happen been involved in it many times too

I should have probably stayed out of this BUTT... There are 2 sides to every story always remember that. when it comes to custom molds there are competely different circumstances that should be known by all. WE ( machinist) get drawings, put togethered baits ,ideas off the phone from the customer,fax's etc. if the drawings are not perfect and in 3d you will never get anything exactly right. sure you can get it pretty darn close just like a sample bait or on the phone. but it will never be exactly right. so the problem lies in who is going to pay for it, if its not exactly what the customer wants? If someone has a blueprint they get what they have on the print other wise its called scrap and they don't pay for it. If someone comes and has you build a part with no print and it doesn't work its not the machinist fault as he made it to the best he could from your description, so why should he have to loose money. In the 3d world(like molds) its a huge difference in that everything is pretty much left open unless the customer knows how to do 3d cad and supplies a machinist with a Detailed Drawing and or a detailed Cad drawing. We ( machinist can only go by the info you tell us and hope to heck its right on the money) when I do custom work I explain it if they ( customer) can't live with close then it gets done like this. you send me what you have avail. I make it as close as I can, I pour a bait and mail you the sample. you get charged for the first mold and the mailing. if its a Mold that they want to pour then they pay for the mold up front and I send it to them. they pour it and make any changes they need, then send me back the changes and I make a new one or sometimes modify that one and they get charged for shipping back programming time and set-up time run time etc. The machinist shouldn't have to EAT the cost for someone not suppling them with a exact blue print? I've made hundreds of custom molds and I get a problem here or there, and after a lot of conversations the designs usually change leaving out the name or adding in the name etc. sometimes in that conversation one of us might miss the part were the customer said to leave this part off or add that part. Whats hard to do is make the customer understand that it came out like this cause thats all we had to work with in the first place.Most customers do but there are a few that don't. there are a million different ways and dimensions, curves contours that could have been been used. how are we suppose to know which one someone wanted.? heres a perfect example of what machinist have to work with. I get an email asking for a custom mold 3 size's , the bait is described to me and is needed in 3 different sizes. I designed the org. bait for the guy in the first place. Tooling will have to be changed do to the size of the new ones is a lot smaller. he wants all 3 size samples on one plate, so he can test it with his prostaff and if they like them then they will purchase 10+ molds of each one. So I shoot over a quote explaining how, why, how much, delivery time etc., and this is the email I get back. This email just baffles the heck out of me cause I am told I have to eat it if he or his pro-staff don't like it. But It makes good business sence to stick it to the machinist??I eat $20 in material 1-3 hours of programming $60-$180 set up time $30-$60 run time $80+ shipping fees $10+ back and forth sending for the final The sample plate was a pretty dang good deal for the simple fact that I had designed the bait to begin with. the molds were going to run $60 or less each depending on the amount of mold actually ordered A few things for customer that want custom molds made, that might make things a little easier when talking to one. Drawing: A cad file with all 3d dimensions, if not that a glued together bait. A drawing on a piece of paper is not a good idea if you want something exact. A bait sample is always the best with the exception of a 3d cad file, this way the machinist can see the bait from all angles. I realize a cad drawing can't be done by everyone, there are very very few people that can do 3d cadd, not to mention you have to buy a cadd program and learn how to use it. Action: Remember the action of the bait is up to you, For example a paca craw. we can make an exact mold of that bait, however if you don't pour it with the same plastic and everything else that the factory use's you will get a completely different action, thats not the person who made your molds fault. Pouring: we can't guarentee if you can pour a custom mold or not, some guys pour plastic hot some plastic cool, some add salt. sometimes a pot doesn't work, or a pyrex doesnt work, sometimes certain brands of plastic won't work ( like hard plastic won't pour like soft plastic will etc) its always Best to ask the person making his mold his opinion and be very specific on what plastic you use and how you pour. most machinist will ask this even before they give you a price on it. Price: This is a tricky one. Cost for alum molds are going to be high. reason being the machine cost is 40+k up to 200+k insurance for that machine maintence on that machine, if that machine breaks we have to fix it, parts are not cheap and neither is labor its pretty much a $500-$1000 bill every time a tech comes into a shop. tooling on that machine way oils coolants electricity a building to store it in Material 3d Programming software someone to write the program were as making a mold out of RTV or pop you can do in your house on the kitchen counter with your wifes kitchen appliances . this is why Alum molds are much more expensive. Delw

Ben. I don't do enough rtv molds or pouring in RTV to even guess, the only thing is when I first saw this pic and the problem you described it came in my mind to be A "Normal problem", like I said if I remember correctly chris was the one who helped me out on it a very long time ago. I havent poured RTV stuff in a while except maybe here and there but they are for me and I don't care what my personal baits look like, edit: Oh you know one thing I am thinking, is did you have any water or moisture in that mold? Ie clean them out with a damp towel or something?

I had that same problem when I first started using RTV and pouring, to be honest I never figured it out. I am pretty sure it was do to the oils in the RTV or spots that the plastic was just voided from kinda like fish eye in paint. I am sure Chris from als worms has an answer cause if I remember right way back on the old tacklemaking board he was the one who helped me out ( hopefully he is not to old to remember LOL) bubbles in plastic doesn't usually happen on the part that touchs the mold as bubbles will rise in the heated plastic Delw

Its a tube type bait, no slots, the only slot is in the back of the end of the tail. I had them for a few months before I even knew it was hollow inside, one of my buddies showed me how it was. They do some awsum painting on these baits

as far as fishing? its one of the best kept secrets in az and a few other states, BassTrix can't keep them in stock and when stores do get them they are sold out with in 1-3 hours. They make some really nice baits and the hook up problems that you have with regular swimbaits you wont have due to its hollow.

There is a thread on this board that has 2 guys makeing these baits 152street and Xcite baits, pm them as they sell them

very easy to do Grab a kitchen knife, mold the shape of a tail out of epoxy ,bondo or something stick that to the knife. then dip the bait a few time leaving your last dip for the tail. we played with a mold of it making the body close , pull the Knife( if you want to call it) out of the mold, with the partial body then paint it and pop your eyes on it and make one dip up to the tail. let it cool off and your done. making a mold of it just makes it faster and gives the body a better shape. it can be done with just a kitchen knife but requiers you to have a few pots of plastic at different temps so it will dip correctly and build up. also and having to make a tail section for you to dip.