Delw

I posted a pic in another thread about swimbaits on this site

take a 3/4 inch piece of copper tubbing, cut it about 1 -2" long then cut a slit down one side with a bandsaw or dremel tool flatten it out with a hammer. then braze it or silver solder it to the tip of the soldering gun. when brazing it cut a small slot with a bandsaw down the center of the tip. then shove the piece of flattened tubbing down there. silver solder wont melt at low soldering iron temps, you will have to use a flame to put on the silver solder

The rc car antenna clear vinyl works pretty good, I have seen it in a few swimbaits, I got piece here that didnt melt into plastic. its has to be pretty thick. It did melt a tad on super hot plastic. Think about it this way, sometimes people put to much effort into reinventing the wheel. for example a swimbait might only last 2-3 fish, ive had mission fish last only one fish some 2 and some 4 but usually 1-2 then the plastic comes apart from the lead head.

Teflon will work howevere teflon leaves a extreamly shard corner when cut. If not cut properly it will leave a sharp burr were the chamfer meets the hole inside. the best way to cut it for most guys is to chuck a extreamly Highspeed steel 30º chamfer tool in a drill and spin it at low rpms, you can do it by hand too. Make sure you have a new one as old dull ones will do more pushing than cutting and it will leave the sharp edge. if you used the chamfer tool on any metal throw it out don't use it on teflon. The only problem with teflon is that the insert will slide out unless you put a few grooves in the tubbing so it will grab the plastic and not slip, however because teflon and very slippery it more than likely wont work and after the first fish it will probally slide out. ( unless you use a big Dia with a small hole and big grooves)

the "k" stands for Kalin the 3k is there 3" grub and the 5k is there 5" grub different companies measure the grubs in different ways. some to the back of the tail and some when the tail is stretched

You can also heat up some plastic and hold the edge of the ika or skirt in in then press the 2 together

The best way is to get a flaring kit at an automotive store store and flar the edges. the flar will put a nice flare on the ends with out making the inside sharp. Make sure you also by seamless tubing as some of the seamed tubbing is sharp inside.

goto a hobby shop and by antenna tubing, they use it on rc cars. for the stuff that goes into the lead you use brass ferrals or alum insert. we are making the alum inserts and the lead molds for our swimbaits

it should be back up the new york data center had some issues. Lots of sites were down this am. Thanks Delw

To wear it will still pour ( I dont do the temp thing) Also add your glitter into a cup just before you pour the bait. only use enough plastic that you have cavities for. for example if you cook up a cup of plastic and have one 4 cavity mold, it obviously wont use all the plastic. so pour enough into a separate cup then pour your glitter in. Hope that makes sence.

Unless you use high temp glitters and/or low heat on the plastic all glitters will bleed. Remelts are the worse pretty much for any glitter unless you remelt your plastic the proper way. The proper way to remelt plastic is to cook a batch of plastic then cut up the remelt plastic into small chunks, then drop them into the hot liquid plastic, stir it up letting it melt into the already cooked plastic, then heat it some more. Anytime you remelt plastic and don't do it this way it could easliy burn and make the glitter bleed.

Use high temp glitters and/or don't heat your plastic so hot

Travis, I have found that some baits poured in POP and especially silicon are a lot eaiser to pour then in alum molds. of course you don't get the detail like you would in a alum mold especially with silicon pouring.

Dean the mold is a pain to make and make it work for hand pour guys, as most of the top piece is contoured. more work means more price about double of what a regualr swim bait mold would run. I got one and played with a few variations of it the problem is if it doesnt have the arc on the top just right it spins like a SOB. making that arc on the top piece is were the cost comes into play. you also have to make them so they pour with little to know trimming. Guys dont like to buy molds were you have to trim in 5 different spots, nor do I blame them. They cannot be poured through the nose with the same thickness of the org bait, that has to be opened up big time so it will pour all the way to the tail. if the web thickness is double( which would be an absolute min to pour if your lucky) the bait swims wierd, any bigger and it doesnt swim and does weird stuff and spins. no all that being said, make one with POP (Plaster ) or silicon and they will pour fine through the nose. I know silicon does and I was told by one of my customers that plaster does as well but I have not seen the plaster one. Silicon tends to flow the plastic through smaller openings rather easy alot easier than Alum. I don't know if its due to the slipperyness the smoothness or the heat it holds but RTV does pour alot easier through small openings as compared to Alum. I got them in alum, I am not 100% happy with them, I am definatly not happy with the price that I need to sell them at. Once I can get them under 200 bucks then I will be happy.

The only way to do a paper turnament is requier everyone in your club to purchase a golden rule scale $20. , it also needs to be a draw tourny due to teams partners always stretch the truth. your draw partner needs to buy off and whitness every fish checked. The golden rule has a lbs scale next to the inchs on the scale. its the best scale(ruler) in the world and extreamly accurate as far as one bacth to the next. No tournyment guy should be with out one. if I remember correctly most if not all tournaments use the golden rules as the official scale when you have a slot limit or min and max size fish. Delw

mike use a drop or 2 of orange and a transparent red and be heavy on the red.

Calhoun and mf you only need to shake as the separate not settle, Lurecraft settles all the plastic is pretty much the same main thing is mix it good, if you dont mix it it wont be consistant

We can still make it work, don't use it till you call me or at least we talk. shoot me an email with your phone number and a time to call del-mart@cox.net Delw

Jason, its just black and white, you can mix your own, we have guys that would rather not so we made Grey. its grey almost like a aircraft carrier grey,

Did you mix the gal of plastic extreamly well before you started? if they are too soft like a wet noodle then you didnt mix it. when usinga microwave for the first time only use 30 seconds at a time, yes its a pain but it will get you used to your microwave, then you can go for a min or min. and a half etc. if it turned clear its paste the gel state shake the plastic up really good in the gallon container then put it in for 30 seconds at a time. what happens if you dont shake the plastic up very good is you run all the softener out of the gallon jug. then you next batch will be harder. I'll be at the shop tomorrow, feel free to call me or shoot me an email with your phone number and I can calll you back. and I can guide you through it step by step. only takes about 5 mins and much easier to do it on the phone than on a pc .

Noves 100% yup you can tell with the first pic what the real color is

use heat stabilizer and it will keep mf plastic from burning. heat stabilizer is the first thing to burn off, usually in 10-15 mins, so you need to add some every 20 mins yes it works in the microwave Delw

The reason it shows more brown is due to the picture being taken and not having the proper light. and the background. I know that color and have seen it, matter of fact it looks like a worm I have sitting on my desk. I could be wrong though. I think its a berkly worm color, at least this worm I have looks like a berkely Novas pretty close to being right on the money however you want a blue glitter that bleeds other wise you wont get that exact color. the blue will give it that tint that you need.

thats a very nice website, I like the layout. loads fast too

Saint, I think you got the cheap version of photoshop with out all the toys like cs has, the thing you want to edit the backround is called the magic wand I believe.. you wont have the editing stuff like the cs versions does, however you should be able to blow a pic up to edit the back ground pixel by pixel. color one pixel or a few at a time to a background color.