Delw

heres one I did with out adding the black flake to it, ( the pic was to just show off the bait) I didnt feel like adding the black glitter. the skirt that is on it is a yama #221 skirt you can see if I would have added the black flake the color on the body would be a tad darker and matched perfectly then

if your using salt it was I wanna say 45 per cup. make sure you shake that night crawler up very well as that is one color that settles. I have teh exact recipe I posted somewhere, let me see if I can find it.

Tourny fishermen are the worse its all about color to most. ive seen guys taht are good sticks go to the crapper cause they forgot the baits at home or in the truck etc. Delw

if your looking for the yamamoto #221 color then you use del-mart nightcrawler for the cininamon it matchs almost 100% the fleck will change the color to match so when you add black and purple it will look exact. #221 is the #1 color I use on jigs and senkos and this was the match I have found to be the best. Delw

Sorry, I messed up, those wouldnt work for tube rods. For some reason I was thinking they were hard rods. these teflon rods are the teflon ( plastic rods) we use them for dielectric washers on electronic componets in the aerospace industry. they would work as a stirrer but get the 1/2 size as the 1/4" is pretty flimsy and bends very easy. Delw

Oh even better, I bet those rods would be killer on tube molds, and for dipping tubes as well. might be an answer I am looking for, thanks for the heads up. Delw

RX Thats cool, Ive been wondering how that was going to work, might make using a lee pot worth it now. those lee pots have a very good purpose for pouring creature baits and other baits that have small openings. did the teflon help disperce(sp) the heat evenly ( ie no hot spots) TAE if you put rod on the grinder it will take off the coating.

dont worry about messing it up, cause you can fill it in with bondo or epoxy and it will work just fine. Delw

if you use it go the slowest rmp you can go, or around 1000 rpms and lots of OIL

the dremel tool is the emergency rooms best friend Remember those round saw cutting blades. crap those things took alot of fingers and other body parts halfway off. Delw

rumor has it dugeonhawk pours in the nude

do-it molds are made out of cast alum, they cut extreamly easy. you need to use lots and lots of oil to cut 6061 molds

Mike I suggested a hack saw for the simple reason most people have one. that and most people useing a dremel will hurt them selfs cutting alum ... Abrasive wheels load up and break IE explode in alum and using a little cutter it will grab the metal and run the cutter into your chest, hand face, leg etc. a bur tool will work but it must have a lot of flutes so it does grab if you want to really do it right get a router with a sharp bit and lots of oil( smallest bit possible) then mill a 3/8"s wide slot .006-.008 deep. if you don't use lots of oil you are wasting your time on Alum and will wreck the mold.

Dont forget that adding black glitter will also make it darker via reflection. Delw

Pumpkin with black and gold fleck. That color looks jut like a chockolate shake every time I mix it

Yeah the curl tail is one you have to pour separate.

Take a hack saw blade and cut a small groove down to the end of the mold from the tail you can do one in the center and one on each side also. Just out of curiosity how much salt are you useing? we have lots of customers pouring them with salt and they pour fine with out any modification, I think they are light on the salt though. for production some guys have been cutting .004 out of the bottom of the mold that meets the tail for faster pouring. how ever if your using to much salt venting will not help. try the hack saw deal first and let me know how it works, also send me a pm on my board with your forumla and I will try it here and see whta I come up with) Yes they will, people been doing it for 3+ years now and hundreds of those paddle stick molds. I pour with 1/2 the amount of salt I normaly use in a senko.Delw

dont worry about the rating, the thing you want to do is heat it in 30 sec intervals until its cooked. and stir it between intervals do that a few times and when you have it down you can adjust from there. NEVER Rely on someone s else's time when cooking plastic, even with the same microwave brands you will get different cook times

exactly keep that spout filled also make sure your salt is mixed extreamly good. the 8 -12 stik bait molds due to the amount of plastic will shrink more than a 3-5 inch. also the 8-12 make awsum laminated baits, we use them for jerk baits with no salt in a rainbow trout pattern/color

In my experiance fading is generally not the color, no matter who's it is (unless its floresent colors some of them bleed but don't fad) its more the plastic or the addtives that are added into it. BTW shaking the colors won't help for fading, it will only help in getting a more potent color. in colors the pigment settles and always needs to be mixed extreamly well. there is nothing you can do to keep the colors from settling no matter whos colors they are. some will settle more than others, blues, reds and flo colors are the worse for settling. we always recommend that the customer puts a few 1/4-20 nuts in each bottle of color and shake the heck out of it before you use it. one nut wont work 2 is best. if its cold make sure you warm it up first. on methiolate and chartruse colors April found that if you pop the bottle in the microwave for 10 seconds its a lot easier to mix especially for the methiolate. The methiolate will also settle hard on the bottom so its a really good idea to break it apart with a screwdriver then mix it very well before use.

The only thing I can think of is your plastic was to hot, but even then you been pouring for a while, so I doubt that was your problem. I have watermellon baits that I have had poured and sitting for years ( seriously) and they are still green wth black fleck. did you use scents or oils in the bag? if you did that could be the culprit. or if they hit sunlight than the plastic is short on the UV protection inside of it this is one reason why its a mush to mix your plastic well no matter whos product it is. one other thing, did you oil your molds or have any other oils touching your plastic in or out of the bag? Ive never seen watermellon( any brand) turn to blue before.

snake molds are cool , if you use very soft plastic and pop a few of the floating bubbles in it they work excellent. the best plastic for snakes is the stretchy plastic (forget the exact name of it) how ever it doesn't work very well for the hand pourer.

if you want I could ship them to you, but shipping would kill you. I sell them for 79.00 each for the group 27's and never had one go bad yet, when they do they have free replacement for one year. I can run a 36 volt motor guide tm for 2+ days with no power loss.

joe its not that complexed, you need to remember I am selling these so I have to make them as fool proof as possible. so I do get a tad carried away. you can use aligator clips and or wire fixture, and just make sure you get it close all the time. but in all honesty i would consider getting some balsa wood, some super glue and some drill rod and make one like that( very cheap and very fast) then if it works coat the balsa wood with epoxy or something. reason I say balsa wood is due to its cheap and very easy to work with plus superglue makes it almost an instant setup., if you dont liek it try it again and again. your out about 10 bucks if it doesnt work.

thats a big problem on my end also, I was ready to release the swimbait molds and make them so they will hold the leaded hook. in my case I am using drill rods ( pins) but they are 2 peice molds so its much easier. I did a 6 in trout one a while ago playing around, it was a single piece mold. I made a fixture to hold the hooks. you can make the same fixture, but using balsa wood and the coating it with fiberglass.. on the bigger molds its easier as you have the room to pour the baits then drop the fixture over the mold holding the hooks, however on the smaller wildeye type baits you will need to device it in a way the it wont interfer with pouring. I think you can accomplish this via using drill rod but in longer lengths and sitting it on the side of the mold instead of the top ( ie stradling the mold) one drill rod goes through the hook eyelet and the other goes through the hook bend, by the barb. side play can be fixed via using a small oring on the drill rods. you would basically put your weighed hooks on the fixture and use the o-rings to keep the from moving side to side. when I did my first one on the bigger mold I used the alligator clips, they dont work because you will never get the hook into the same position each and every time. one other problem and something you might want to think about is you also need to make the lead mold to hold the weighted hook. cause if your shape and or size or even hook size changes your hook holding fixture will be different. which is kinda a good thing cause then you can add different types of hooks sizes and different weights as well and have a fixure for each. Ive been through the process a million times in the last year, and found the only problem is the hook fixture and type of hooks and weight you use. I thought I had swimbaits all ready , now i have to make the lead mold for the hook too.