Delw

work oil will turn color if ts left in any direct sunlight. worm oil does not have uv protection at all.

you can add water based scents to plastic when and only when your plastic is below 212 degrees that is what the boiling point of water is. listen to nova on this one, another way to add water based scents it to get a plastic bag, take a razor or pin and put some cuts into your baits, pour in the scent, seal the bag get another bag and put it around the first sealed one then pop it in the microwave for 15 second. the scent will work its way into the cuts in the worms. or just fill the bag with scent and let them soak lots of people do this. what you head is probally some shop talk via a manufacturer of water based scents to keep his product going instead of the oil based scents. another thing is that the oil based scents will leave a trail so to speak and since water wont break it down it will stay in the water. Again listen to nova on this one.

Thats my thinking, you tell me which would you rather ingest crushed glass with sharp edges or smooth round microscopic glass. you going to let your kids play with baits that have crushed glass in them. yeah I didnt think so. BTW the bubble are really dangerous to inhale as they get in your lungs cause they are light. there are many things in manufacturing that are dangerous to make an end products , what people need to do is realize whats danerous in the end product and end user. sorry but common sence will tell you crushed glass is definatly not one of them. heres one example. equal sugar. there is one product that is put into equal sugar that will destroy your lungs if inhaled its aspertane it has extreamly sharp edges, however the process to make equal sugar. the end consumer doesn't get even close to what can be harmful in a box of 100. instead of trying to disclaim, trying to compare this to that ,look for loop holes in something, or post a post claiming a post was too harsh. start thinking of another way to use something else your wasteing too much engery and time trying to argue the point, when it could be used in other projects. pretty much just like the patent issues, some people will try anything to get around it. people will post what they know, have experiance with or was told by individuals , most people are fine with, that others have to put a spin on it to try to find a way to make it work for them even if its illegal or dangerous. you all should be happy someone posts these things cause they could keep you from landing in court. most people that post here are trying to keep your butts from ending in court so you can take that for what its worth. I havent seen anyone in all the years on TU and the old tackle making.com site say something so they could steal the idea and use it or just make it sound like a bad idea. some of you guys will try anything to get by logic/ common sence just to sell something absolutely amazing. Dont get me wrong some of the ideas I have seen are incredable and come out really good. but some are just down right dangerous. bottom line frank can walk down the hallway of the hospitol he works at and ask how safe crushed glass is.

it wasnt to harsh, if you guys want a lawsuit more power too ya but dont say that someone didnt warn you. jeff your talking crushed glass vs solid glass a completely different thing. floating bubles have no problems mixed in plastic to the customer as you cant inhale them. but buying floating bubles themselves is very dangerous. Tungten could be radio active, As a matter of fact lots of metals are radio active. this was taught in highschool chemistry class. we used to cut tugnsten at our areospace shop me and my employees for 10+ years , Been cutting cobalt for 20+ years I have yet to glow. as far as lead causeing I will probally get it pretty soon if I dont have it yet. Ive been reloading shotgun shells since I was 6 years old. I worked for my dad at a refinery when I was 10-20 and unloaded PURE liquid lead out of 55 gal drums( we had to wear special suits) and sometimes it spashed. I painted miles and mile and miles of oil pipelines with what th called redlead this was a protective coating for steel. and dont forget about everyone in the military especially the navy, redlead was used on everything. and base houseing has asbestos and lead paint everywhere. heck most are still alive. not to mention all the mercury I played with when I was a kid cause I thought the stuff was cool. this is completely different your talking crushed glass used in baits, when swallowed you stomich acids with break down the the plastic leaving only the crush glass to go through your digestive system, as glass cant be digested. while it may not kill you it will mess you up. yes its thinking out of the box of main stay , but there is still common sence and responcibility that must be thought about, especially if your selling baits to the public. somebody somewhere will sue you for something. crushed glass would be the easiest case to win.

Most shot can be bought at any gun store that sells reloading equipment for shotguns. they come in 25lb bags, shot size varies and so does the type of shot. Shotgun shot has been used for years and years in softplastics, usually its in guys hand pours, kinda a so called secret. we have alot of customers that have been using them in th tail ends of dropshot worms, bass asassine tails for the action, I have a few customers that use them in there stik baits as well. if your going to use a copper or yellow type of glitter in your plastics goto a local machine shop and ask for some brass shavings. you will get a clear bait with a nice glitter. there are a few metals that will work for glitters 303 stainless steel makes a nice silver glitter dullish half hard brass yellowish glitter I cant remember the names of all the different types of brass but there are 6 types I have machined that when cut will cut fine chips( like glitter) and give you different shades. oil lite is one bronze is another then the halfhard brass which is most commonly used.

shawn believe it or not thats not true, metal can be used in the microwave. was on that show mydth busters. The metal fobia got started by people using tinfoil, it would arc and make really pretty lights and flashs. if you have a really shinny glitter it will do the same wether its metal or poly. silver is the worse. I used to take lurecraft glitter and just dump it on the top( with out stiring) and get sparks however once I stired it into the plastic I wouldnt get sparks. same thing happens with my glitter and craft store glitter etc. most guys dump the glitter in and stir it, so do I but for some reason long ago I either forgot to or didnt and saw they sparks. never had the problem again after that either and its been quite a few years. I was watching mydth busters about 3 months ago and they had a show on microwaves. very interesting stuff, if you get a chance try to find that episode. it also explained how and why microwaves worked. I was able to give that info to calhoun plastics so they could work on a fool proof micowave formula for us. all plastics no matter what brand will have a microwave problem if there are certain conditions met. all brands have had microwave problems in the past.

The other problem your going to have is major libality issues. in all honesty you would be a fool to put ground glass in your baits if you sold them. think about it, a lot of guys bite the tips off the bait when they get frayed, there kids eat the baits or taste the baits. do you really want a lawsuit? not to mention do you really want to have ground up powdered glass in your house? if you ingest some your going to have some serious problem it would be just like using mercury for weight in a bait ( just a small drop is all it takes). BAD BAD IDEA

Scott, I have a mold already for a few different sizes, they are made from scrap for testing. after making the first one I found a few ways to make it less expensive and faster. I just need to do that. cant put them on till I can stock them up. I am planning on coming up for the spring bear season. I will be in nampa if everything works out during that time. if time permits and and I actually go up there lets hook up for sure it would be a blast to fish in idaho again for bass. I used to fish there a lot before but only for gaybass ( aka Trout) Delw

azbass, use them at lake pleasant,rosy and bartlett . next month when it warms up just before the spawn these baits will be fantastic. the white ones been working during the winter as jerk baits, they are almost as good as vixens Delw

The stampendous brand glitters from a craft store will work, other than that most will not.

I think the javallon is a great bait, Ive been using it from time to time and caught some really nice fish on it. most hit when swimming it. its an excellent jerkbait

I like that black and white robo worm

goto your local bottle store and buy dropper spouts for them. might have to do it at a craft store wal-mart hobby store, most pain shops will have the tops also Delw

LOL nope havent heard of this one before but if you recall white out is very porous and rgh, kinda like bondo or POP is. you need to seal it with epoxy or something hard and smooth. also whiteout is soft

Um I guess if I read it better I would have seen that sorry you can do it even with a not so sturdy machine. do-it molds are made of cast, they are very easy to cut. how ever they are extreamly hard to make both ends line up perfectly ( not hard just take some time). I am going to assume you have some basic tools ie calipers, some kinda mill or heavy duty drill press etc. Mill: This would be the best way. even if its a crappy one you can make it work cause you are going to go straight down ( no side pressure) side pressure is what will kill you unless your mill is heavy duty especially on a 1" dia mill. your going to need to buy a 1" ball end mill. 2 flute is best , 4 flute will work but you have a chance of getting chatter ( even going straight down) make sure its NOT CARBIDE , Carbide does not cut alum very well unless you have good quality machines. Carbide also isn't as sharp and have the rake on the end mill required for alum. not to mention its going to be expensive. first thing you need to do, I have found this to be the easiest way , is to close the mold put in a vice and and drill right between the to halfs a small hole as deep as you can. 1/16 bit works best smaller if you can. you do this so you know where to make your sphere pockets. then you will need to place the mold blank in a vise.(open and laying flat) then you need to indicate the mold blank so its flat and perpendicular to the spindle. find the point you want to make your sphere and put the center of the spindle . endmill dead center . Then just go slow straight down DON'T ROUGH IT OUT , roughing it out will cause your end mill to walk. like I had said do-it blanks are cast material and very easy to cut. use keroseen go slow. spindle speed go slow,(500 rpms or less, preferably 100-200 unless you have a good quality hand mill) too much spindle speed will cause a big endmill to chatter and it could hurt you. you can also do it on a drill press or hand drill and still be pretty close, but it would be perfect take the closed blank and lay it flat side up( instead of the way I described above) figure out where you want the sphere to be. Mark it. then take a 1/16" drill bit and drill a hole through one half and part way into the other. open the mold up and the center your end mill over the 1/16th" hole and drill it with your endmill. then you can take a a dremel tool and cut the spruces for the lead to pour through. if that doesn't make since let me know and I will try to get some detailed pics online Dont forget you have a 1" ball endmill you need to make a 1" dia sphere so that means you cut down .500 from the tip of the endmill which will give you a half circle, then you repeat the process on the other side. when closed it will give you a one inch round sphere. anyplace that sells machine tooling will have those endmills , they are avail on ebay and online cat stores. Hope that helps Delw

Just saw this thread. one question that comes to mind, how are you going to use a 1" endmill? I hope you have a quality hand mill? not knowing exactly what you have heres some tips use tool steel not carbide unless you have a very strong machine. anything from harbor frieght wont work keroseen is the best coolant ( well diesle fuel is but it is messy). carbide will give you chatter unless your machine is rigid , tool steel will load up and keep a load. how ever a 1" endmill your not going to load up. give me some specifics of what your trying to do and with what. I will try to get to them tonight Delw

we use westy worms ( now lobina lures)and wired worms alot here in AZ what I have done is made a few double hook set ups then threaded them through the worms. you need to oil the worms in order to do so. I have pour plastic over the prerigs in the past as well. I have a few buddies that do it and asked how they do it. 2 ways. keep your plastic as cool as possible and the other is but that heat sink stuff they use for heat sinks on CPU'S lightly coat the line. when Ive done the threading I have coated the rigs with worm oil so they slide easier. I dont know if it works but it does for them. wire. you can find small dia wire and tie you hooks the pop them in your mold and pour over them. piano wire guitar strings etc. it very small wire. the guy at wired worms I think uses some type of cooper wire ( he has/had a patent) yeah some people will say wire bends. it does, however you pull the back hook and it straights the wire out. on these type of worms I like to have them perfectly straight. the front hook its always a 1/8 3/16 or 1/4oz jig head. you have to use very sharp hooks with fine wire also. wired worms makes some of the best baits around, they are huge sellers on the west coast. Many years ago( I sent a few packs of westys to a friend that used to fish the patomic river to try out. he loved them and did really well in bass events and his club events. wired and westy worms are almost the same thing except wired worms have wire instead of mono.

The best fastest and easiest way is to thread the mono after the worm is done. other wise you use wire

I am gueesing your looking for a shakey head type worm? Since I been fishing that alot I find the same problem that there is no meat in the worm to use the screw heads or thread through the jig. The 7 1/2" worm that wirehatred mentioned is what I have been suing for 3 years now on jigs and I love it, however I would like a 3"-6" worm also with a big head and skinny tail for finesse fishing. we should be done restocking everything in the next few days and I can work on the newer worms. I think I made the perfect for shaky head style fishing. The tail is about the thickness of a robo worm and 2 of the styles i have are a little bit thinner. They will be avail in both 2 piece and one piece molds. The 5" diamond tail works pretty good if you are using jigs arouns 3/8" -1/4" anything bigger will cause the head to split. I like these worms alot for the action , so I programmed a few new styles off based on this design. the only thing different is the head is thicker and will hold a 1/2 jig head.

Cal if you are handy with a dremal tool or handy with toold put some vents at teh bottom of the tube along side the rod hole. One on each side fo the rod hole. if you have access to a mill ( hand or cnc) then take a 1/4 " endmill and cut a .004-.006 deep path on each side of the rod hole length wise. Delw

It works fine, just make sure you cover the mold(paint it ) with a epoxy resin. even dry wood holds moisture and you wiil get bubbles, not to mention the finish will come out like garbage. There are a few people I dont that are very handy with a router and dremal and make lots of molds out of wood for production. there are also lots of people that make masters out of wood, again though make sure you coat it with epoxy so you get a niice finish on the silicon Delw Delw

You can't Chartreuse is a bleeding color, try flourescent yellow it doesnt bleed near as bad. and in most case's doesnt bleed at all. flo yellow is extreamly close to chart. also and easier to work with as well.

Charkin, in some cases you need to thin the LC500 plastic or at a bare min add some heat stabilizer so you can cook it a little hotter, lc 500 lately has been a little thick. first try tilting the mold at about a 10 degree angle.

cut a vent down along the sides for venting. drop the rods downa bit, I dont have to preheat the mold when I use these. I assume you have a stock one? they pour very good. how much salt and what type of plastic? its better if your plastic is runny. also tilt the mold to the side to pour allowing the air to escape on the top.

Pryrex should never be set on anything except dry wood or a dry towel no metal, no conter tops as teh cold with make them explode