Delw

jeff I am thinking it works due to the darker color hides all the garbage and tints. I dont know the word for it. I know ob the pearl the darker color will give it a darker background making the pearl stand out more.

Best and closest silver I have ever seen is made with white pearl powder and a drop of black or very dark blue. what I would do is heat plastic up first with pearl in it then add a small drop of black and stir it, keep on adding black till you find the exact shade your looking for. I found this by accident a few years back, you can make chrome and black chrome realy easy as well, adding different shades of colors aslo gives off some really cool effects. just for silver and chrome you need to use black for best results Delw

California swimbabes all products Mexico Basstrix USA Yamamoto USA Reaction Inovations skinny dipper USA ( pretty sure of it)

I about shit bricks when I saw it. I was like WOW WTF did VBulletin do to there software. ( Jerry and I were just a few days before the site change talking about the new version of VB, I thought he pulled the trigger) Ive pretty much used all the softwares out there from the very begining, so I know to give them time. to get used to them the only problem I see with this is the colors. The white and yellow bleeds and the light grays blend in as well and its very bright, I have to squint to read it. Now keep in mind I use this PC for programming. the other site was easier to read on the colors. My eyes are getting bad so the brightness kinda screws with them alot. I liked the duller yellow that he had on the other site. Dont get me wrong I am not complaining but these are the things I have noticed. as far as the board, you get the hang of them after a while once you learn the layout of them. so give it some time. Add'd: As far a speed I noticed no difference as of last night, both on a dsl and cable. my work internet has sucks the last 2 days we cant get online till after 5pm LOL and everytime we try it drops the page. they were out working on it all day today and got it fixed about 20 mins ago. I am now running at 640k LMAO before they fixed it a 56k dial up was faster) at 640 this board flies

here you go, Page 2 has part numbers and some pics http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/11005-making-a-presto-pot-stirrer/page__st__20

you have to make a mold that will allow you to hold the lead head as well, there are a few ways of doing it and it all depends on how your bait is shaped in order to do it properly. basically your going to sandwhich a lead head into the head of the mold and pour the plastic from there. so you will need a cut out to capture the leadhead. sometimes you have to hold on the hook tip and hook eye. thats the best way Delw

the amount of action a bait has depends mostly the hardeness of the plastic that is poured into the mold to make the bait. as long as its the same basic shape. Delw

BBK exactly what tim and others have said, its very rarely the plastic. 99.99% of the time for sticky baits its how its processed ie cooked mixed and or the added ingrediants like scents and stuff.

if your pouring worms you already have it. the best stuff to use hands down for worm oil is softener. the #1 reason is it doesnt turn yellow with sunlight and doesn't evaporate.

if there cooked Properly and in an oven then you take all the varibles out, saltwater and supersoft of the same brands will come out identical. as it has the same componets in it. you can;t do a real test cooking in the mircowave , pot or stove, and you definately CANT do it by tempuature. as every plastic has a different tempature that it cooks at. Also if it sets too long then you run into a burning issue IE the yellow tint. every plastic also has its own type of heat stabilizers most importantly the amounts. heat stabilizers for the most part are a yellow tint as well. the more you have the more yellow tint you have to start with. Delw

Oh I have to add something to this, Adam if you were selling stiks for that price your one of the smartest people around. here why. going rate for a bag of org senkos is around 7bucks, people are makeing custom stik baits, why should someone charge less than factory produced baits? I mean think about it guys. you can buy stiks for xxx, hand poured stiks are in colors that are not offered and in some case's will hold up to 3-5 times the amount of fish, why should you sell them cheaper? your just ripping yourself off. On a side note I know a guy that sells a 10 pack of stik baits in 4 or 5" for 10 bucks thats a buck a piece., he has been doing it for years, sells to some of the top pro;s. he only sells colors that Yamamoto doesnt have and has different weights for them( the formula he uses) BTW he is also on this forum and has been for years and he keeps very busy. He may mention it in this thread or not thats up to him. guess what I am trying to say is dont sell your self short, some of you guys do some awsume work, people will pay for it.. Delw

for swimbaits like you described I would recommending just buying the completeld bait, as a pop mold will take more time than its worth, plus you will need to build the wiring harness. take 2 cake pans 1.5" thick pour it with POP but them together thats about the size of those molds. Also swimbaits are much bigger than you think in the mid and upper mid west. for both bass, muskies and pike.

Its all about confidence. I have fished plenty of swimbaits and they all work, sometimes they want something big somethimes they want smething small. the problem with swimbaits is that people want to catch fish and lots of them so they generally throw a small one. if you are in a tourny you only need 5 bites for 5 fish you want big. for a real swimbait and whats its intended to do you want a bigger bait then your bait fish in that particular lake. if you think of it why would you throw a 4" bait when your bait fish are 5-8" long? sure your going to catch fish but so is everyone else. Molds are not a Main issue when it comes to swimbaits swimming correctly the main key is the hardness and softness of your plastic. heres an example. lets say you use a baby "E" ie california swimbabes bait. depending on how fast you reel in your line will depend on the tail action. soft plastic you need to slow roll them or the tail is so eratic it really doesnt move properly. go with a med plastic and you can speed up the retrieval speed, go with a hard plastic and you can burn them in for a reaction strike( which works extreamly well) a harder plastic will take more speed to get the tail moving just right. when I fish the local lake with swimbaits that I made I have them in all three hardnesses as far as fancy colors in all honesty its more of a catch to catch the fishermen not the fish. They buy lures cause they look pretty if they catch a fish on it Watch out cause thats the only color they will ever buy. I think EYES make a huge difference, reason being is predators always look at the eyes before they attack something. the best thing for you to do is to try everything, go buy a few swimbaits make a mold out of pop or RTV then pour and see what works for you, as long as you keep in mind the tail will move differently with the hardness of the plastic and reel speed, you will be catching fish in no time. we have made some Identical trout swimbaits to a 8" rainbow trout, every fin eyes gills scales etc the guy pours them in 2 colors all white and all smoke thats it, he slays the crap out of them. the tail on a trout is flat as you know, the tail on swimbaits are widened so they give action. this mold had a tail that is flat just like the real thing. its boring as heck to watch it swim cause it does absolutely nothing it goes side way alot as well( we knew it would as there is no weight ), tail make flicker here and there but thats about it. the whole key is to how he fishes it, he basically throws it our there ad jerks it like a jerkbait but much slower. most of his hits are on the fall just like a die'ing trout. Delw

heres a few links that were recently discussed http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/soft-plastics/18176-can-someone-check-my-mold-designs.html http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/lure-making/18139-anyone-use-cnc-router-make-lures-molds.html My opinion you can draw it on a piece of paper faster than you can on a cad system, its much cheaper also. or you can make a prototype out of clay, wood, pieced together plastics etc etc faster and cheaper then buying a cad system

simple way draw bait program bait run bait in cnc machine. Pour Bait it depends what you think is Financially reasonable. as most CAD-CAM softwares for 3 d work run about 10-15k with a yearly update licence of 2-4k (per year) traning generally runs about 100 per hour, for someone off the street figure 2-3 weeks of class and a few hundred dollars in books. NO they dont train you if you buy 10k software, if you want to learn how to use it you have to pay for it Most Cam systems( what you need for 3d work to generate machine code) are drawn in a program like solids works 5-10k again. You can get 3d cad programs from 1k-10k also, but you get what you pay for. IN all honesty your better off making a prototype bait by glueing molding or even drawing on a piece of paper and let someone who knows what there doing do it. as in most cases if faster then working with someones 3d file most of the drawings on 3d cad sent by guys that have designed there own baits are useless , Not the bait as the baits look absolutely fantastic, however making a mold for such a thing requires alot of editing ( which you will always be charged for) just to get it to the Cam stage, trying to figure out how to run it to make it actually produce a bait.

we were buying a mitsubishi hole EDM when they first came out (1997?) to do safety wire holes in aircraft parts for one of my boeing vendors. got to the part of signing the papers. and I got lucky into talking my vendor into buying it. saved me $450k. it would have opened a bunch of new doors but damn there expensive. Dont take out the ribs just make a reverse of the part you have as its a mold, Like you did in the other picture(1st one) then you will see the areas that need to be modified. then when you have the mold halves you can edit fillet radius's in to the size per your buddies tooling that he tells you to use. if he tells you that he runs a .125 ball endmill then all your fillets need to be a tad larger than .0625 A machine is limited to the tooling(endmills) a drawing is limited to what ever you feel like drawing. I dont think you will be able to write a script for that . however you can write a script to automatically put in filet rads .

EDM not EPM I made a type sorry. A EDM can make sharp corners and do things a CNC machine Cant' Electrical discharge machining - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia most machinist will need to look at the part in reverse( the mold) as they dont have the 3d concept, with out seeing the actual part they are going to cut. make a reverse of the bait your going to show him so he can see what needs to be done. the ribs have sharp corners and the head looks a tad complicated as the pencil trick I told you about wont cut it. but its very hard to tell cause the color is too dark in that area. Delw

+1 to what DROF99 said as well, we just typed the same time

stir stir stir when you have salt. as far as the hot plate they work fine but you must stir so you dont burn the plastic. what color colors are you haveing problems with changing. if its a transparent color the more plastic you have it will give you a darker look for example lets say you pour a chunk bait. has a thick head and a thin tail. the tail will come out lighter then the head due to more plastic in the head. you can see this by looking at your cooked plastic and then scooping some up with a spoon. the plastic in the spoon will be lighter in color. another thing to do if your new to pouring is to put the color in AFTER you cooke the plastic that way you know what color your gettnig, as plastic is white when not cooked and when you cook it it becomes clear. also MAKE sure you mix colors extreamly well as colors settle very fast, some colors faster than others. I like to drop 2 1/4-20 nuts in the color bottles and shake the crap out of them before I use them.(every time) The changing of the color out of the same pan blows my mind as I cant picture it. unless your really burning plastic. do the baits have a yellow tint to them? Delw

+1 what you need to do is not only look at the finish product but the reverse of it as thats going to be the mold. you have alot of edm work in that mold. Thats one of the biggest problems with thats that design stuff and have no machining experiance,, the cheap softwares make it so anyone can draw something up which is great, but with out knowlegde of how a machine operates kinda thorws a twist into the mix. My opinion programmers should have a min of 3- 5 years experiance on the floor of a shop with no less than 1-2 years on hand machines.

EDW it would realll help alot if you could post a picture, of the mold you want to use and how you want the hooks rigged up, as it can be interpeted in many ways. Mainbutter: thats easy stuff to to do. the bull dawgs that you are talkign about is very easy as the bait is poured from the bottom(which would be the top of the bait) the harness can be rigged up so that you would use paper clips. generally the mold is 2 halfs and the hook eye is in the nose and the other hook is in the back fin ( these are cut into the mold). again there are many ways to do this and every mold and bait can be different. even the same bait in a differenty type of mold. Delw

2 different baits and thickness's 1st one was shot at a 45

This is the type of results you get with a Perfectly clear plastic when adding transparent colors. you can tell by the Gloss, the transparency and the light reflection and absorbtion. the second pic is 3 days later on another pour

what ever you do make sure you draw your model to scale, if its not drawn to scale it turns into a nightmare. a operator wont be able to plug it into the machine and run it, he will have to use a cadcam software to covert it to machine code using the tools needed to make the part. don't forget just because you can draw it doesnt mean it can be made. for none machinest making 3d drawings of parts the best way is to have a pencil handy, hold it straight up and down thats your cutting tool, it doesnt move at an angle only up and down.. in making a 3d part its a good idea not to make any filliet radius's too small as the machine needs to run tools and if they are too small 1 they wont work or 2 it will be so time consuming its not worth running

Got you beat, we had one show up over a year later and they tried to bill the poor guy for it again LMAO 5 gals of plasic in customs for over a year, they sent it back to us and it didnt look like plastic at all, didnt cook like it either. generaly it took about 2-4 weeks to get. the loss rate on the post office to canada on air?( slow cheaper affordable one think its air?) was about 30% UPS never lost a package to canada fed x lost about 10-15% of them. prioity( its the fast one think its priority) never lost one to canada, but the rates are high on plastic