Delw

Your correct MT I am talking before its cooked/burnt. I woud have never believed it 1 day about 3 years ago I got 4 drums of calhoun 2 of which that was BLACK, they wouldnt take it back either. in trying to find a fix for it There chemist had me mix it one drum of the black stuff to 2 drums of white stuff to fix it. still looked grey but was crystal clear when it was cooked. heat stabilizer will also add a yellow tint, burning of course will add a yellow tint as well, glitter and highlites will fade if the plastic is too hot and turn crystal clear plastic tinty. reheats are a no no if you want a clear plastic if there is any glitter in it. Calhoun Used to be the best hands down , until about 2 years ago when they went to crap. not saying its garbage just saying its not anywere close to what is was. pretty much all plastics work the same, the price of the plastics in wholesale form will dictate what is the best plastic as far as clearity, this is not counting how you cook it as that throws a whole nother probem in it. about your best midrange plastic out there is M-f for hand pourers, Plastic manufacturers the big ones, not MF not calhoun etc but the big world wide companies have high dollar plastics and you can notice a huge difference in clearity and even cooking, along with the UV's and how long it will stay clear for. however you will also notice a huge cost increase in a better product. hand pourers generally want the cheapest plastic they can get that still works well and doesnt stink., you can buy plastic that will work the exact same as calhoun/m-f / lurecraft etc etc for a 1/3 of the price however it stinks big iIme and smokes even worse. they dont make that much difference in injection machines as the plastic is cooked in a heat exchanger that is not open to outside air so to speak ( Mike can fill you in on that part) Like wise you can buy a plastic thats better than the above mentioned for 2-3 times the wholesale price. you will get a more consistant plastic a clearer plastic and one that doesnt fade or turn color after a while. There is no bad plastic so to speak, they all so the same thing , some have different textures(feel) some have a better or worse smell and some smoke alot more than others. I shouldnt say there are no bad plastics wait till you see the absolute JUNK thats coming from CHINA in the form of big swimbaits, the stuff smells like it was on fire and comes out a greyish nasty color wierd texture like the plastic when you burn it and it turns black. also You cant judge a plastic by Hardness and softness as you can make any plastic the same durometer reading. You will always hear people say so and so's soft is not as soft as so and so, which is true its not because of the plastic its because thats how they mixed it when they first started and thats how they/or there customers like it so they keep it like that. for example you can take m-f supersoft and it will be a tad differnt in hardness than lure craft super soft. can't compare calhoun to it as there soft is just between supersoft and regular m-f however you can add a touch of softener and make it exactly. if your looking for a certain hardness softness its best if you get a durometer and a good one , then you can mix your plastics to the exact hardness every time. when we were having problems with calhoun way back when. we purchased 5 gals of every plastic out there sent a pint to a lab cook and had them check it. they cook it in a controled oven with no colors/glitters or additives in little pans that are made of alum. they kinda look like a cupcake wrapper but thicker. the big difference was BUBBLES and Texture and SMELL of the cooked plastic and yellowing. over the last 3 years the reason why some plastic companies products have changed so drastically is due to what and where they get the componets to mix the stuff. some had no choise as to the oil prices going way the heck up, others had no choice cause it was a shortage for a while. I guess what I am saying is that they all work the same, if you want clear baits DONT add heat stabilzers worm oils and only cook enough to pour the bait, DON'T add gliiter scents to the whole batch then reheat only add glitter to the amount you want to use before you have reheat. if you are using color it makes no difference. Delw

I doubt it would be a benifit as it only adds about 10% weight compared to normal plastic and I would think the pressures at that depth would throw that minute of a weight change out the window? plastic weighs approx 8lbs per gallon and heavy plastic would be close to 9lbs per gallon Approx. .. lots of lead LOL if your pouring very big baits you could add lead into them? that would be hardley noticable it would be like a insert that you pour your plastic around. Delw

My applogize's I miss read your post thought you were asking someone on the board local to wave duties and tax's. Delw

Tube man sells it This is Bull**** for guys in the USA selling to canada and heres why, you are subjecting the seller to FRAUD. which is a federal offence here in the USA do to it cross's state and country lines. you are also cheating your OWN country and Government from there revenue. this is one perfect reason why we dont use FED X anymore as they will give you the product and bill you for it if they dont get the bill paid for they bill the seller 6 months to a year later, over the 4 years we were using fed x ( 3 years ago we quite) I aqured well over 5,000 bucks of duties and tax's from people in Canada doing exactly what your trying to do. heads up to any vendors UPS and the post office WON'T give the product until they pay your taxs and duties. BTW the post office is the cheapest way and you pay less in duties and tax's, however plastic takes a long time to get there and is generally lost about 30% of the time NOT to mention it may sit in customs for 1-3 months before they get it. If you mark on the box as a gift your are also breaking the federal law and will get busted. right now isnt the time to do such a thing as the feds are starting to crack down pretty hard due to the economy. DON'T GET A SELLER IN TROUBLE CAUSE YOU DONT WANT T PAY YOUR COUNTRIES DUTIES AND TAX'S. Delw

Alignment pins are a must min of 2 kitty corner from one another. never vent from one plastic area to another as it will build vacuum and or steam and cause problems in that specific area. voids deformaties etc etc. that bait by looking at it, injection not needed unless its hollow and has a wall thickness of less than 3/32. I am guessing but the shape its going to be a hollow bait like bass trix style. they pour just fine up to 3" long, under 3 inches its gets a little more difficult to pour. nice3d work. swimbaits are pretty much the easiest baits to pour due to the size the the amount of plastic they hold which keeps plastic hotter longer. dump the vents to the outside of the mold, if your injecting Keep the vents away from were you could get hurt if the plastic was to shoot out of the vents. vents are a key and they will vary insize depending on if your low pressure injecting, high pressure injecting or hand pouring. Delw

Theres a few tricks to get perfectly clear plastic. the way someone cooks it is most important however you can fudge alittle to make it better. 1. the best way to cook plastic is in a oven ( you dont have to stir it in a oven either) and heat exchanger., 2. then on a stove/cooking pot or heat lamps 3. microwaves if your plastic is milky its not being cooker thuroughly. microwaves cause this prolem alot do to the way they heat the plastic. if your using the microwave make sure you stir stir stir and them some. also it doesnt hurt to let it set for a while then zap it and stir again, now for the trick part. add a drop of black or a drop of dark blue(blackgrape) to the plastic, your plastic will look like a glass of water. usually 1 drop in a cup of plastic is more than enough, if using hightlights DONT add blue add Black as the blue kinda changes the highlight color and black doesnt. Delw

Not true, , a 5 cavity stik molds holds more plastic than a 1 cavity tube mold, matter of fact it will hold more plastic than a 7 cavity tube mold. not to mention with larger more cavity molds you have more surface area to disapate the heat with. and being there are tons of multicavity molds out there I dont think there is a problem with heat for the most part. you can throw in other factors like what you say about injection it is so much faster than pouring, well that doesnt give the mold time to cool off as much as a 5 cavity hand poured senko mold does. . its pretty much the old addage that a heavy barrle gun doesnt heat up as fast or a much, however it actually holds heat more as the barrle is thicker then a smaller barrel. this was one reason they started fluteing barrels to give the heavy barrels more surface are to cool faster, and also they found out it help strength the barrle. Nice try though it sounded pretty good Delw

Mike No one was bashing anyone in this thread when it first started NO names were mentioned and NO products were mentioned. just injection in general as that was the question asked and the answer given. it got bad when the cheerleaders decided to start in. then the thread got turned into a cluster **&* . they got specific so I gave them Specific answers. THEY ASSUMED I was talking about a specific product when in fact I wasn't, as blow black has NOTHING to do with someones product, it has to do with the process of pressure ,cooling and,elasticity. you have used pressure pots and perhaps suctions guns/hand injectors in the past, years ago like alot of others have, you and they know what blowback is. Delw

before this thread got into a cheerleading session, what I was trying to explain is that the tips/nozzles pop off at times. this is dangerous and can be fixed extreamly easy with NO major time factors in shooting and changing tips. when you have any type of suction gun that is held toegther with only and O-Ring and nothing else it will slide out. with just a little amount of pressure. With a pin , slide lock, threads etc this will make sure you DONT have a problem with the nozzles popping off. thats my major concern and should be of any one manufacturing them. As far as blowback, its been explained, Vodkaman could explain it better. that will happen at any pressure to a certain degree, when your dealing with pressure and something elastic there are ways to minimize it. a suction gun is what Bear, Bobby Napa janns netcraft have, you use suction to suck up plastic then you apply pressure through a handle to FORCE the plastic into a mold. FORCE meaning any PSI other than gravity feed. Bears Bobby's and Napa are all metal janns is a plastic one Napa has threads on the outside of the nozzle to keep it from comming off. Granted it wasn't intened for hot plastic but it is NO different than the other metal ones Meaning its is and will do the exact same thing as the others only SAFER as the nozzle is held on by threads.. for some reason a few people have the suction gun and $12 being a cheap unuseable system for hand injection.mainly cause its cost only 12 bucks. however they are exactly the SAME. the reason they are cheap in price is cause they are made in quanity. when you get things made at a machine shop or any manufacturing place the price depends on quanity it will cost more than whats made in large quanities. Now would you shoot a 1 cavity 5 cavity mold with a suction gun heck no as your just wasting plastic thats the reason for 2 4 6 8 oz suction guns. just like you wouldnt shoot a 20 cavity mold with a 2oz suction gun basically the same aplies. of course you want to use safety equipment when using injection or any hot sticky liquids, thats a given however you also want the stuff to be as safe as possible when using it. there is nothing to keep that tip/nozzle from popping out other than pressure.holding a nozzle/tip by o-ring pressure only is simply NOT safe , what about the guys that pops the nozzle in and out x amount of times over time o-rings wear out metal especially aluminum wears out from the rubbing one reason why lots of alum parts are anodized is to keep the wear down, not to make them pretty. its needs to have some sort of fail safe device so IF that did happen and it HAS as some of you guys know it has, hot plastic wont pour all over someone wether they have glooves aprons face masks etc, cause there will always be that ONE time when someone will be in a hurry or not paying attention, most everyone who has burned themselves me included have made a stupid mistake cause we were in a hurry. some of you guys also misread my post to Jim about O-rings wearing out, basically its never for most guys besides it cost a whopping 25 cents if that to replace a o-ring I NEVER said that IN a Bad way at all. As far as kids and injecting hot plastic NOT me, pyrex NOT me out of a pot I dont have a problem with it but I know people that give me crap about it. I let my kids run a cnc machine the salemen have a stroke My parents freak out about it however these kids have been around them there entire lives including my 19 year old. they know the safety of them. one machine has NO door off switchs(didnt come equiped with them) on the other machine I shut the parameter off so I can run it with out having to stop the machine when setting up. when the kids are in the shop I turn the one machine off and the other machine gets the parmeter back on. Why? my kids know not to open the door and never have but what if? what if I was on the phone and the kid went and opened the door? chances are nothing maybe a minor injury chips hitting them coolant etc. or it could be major like a hand cut off or smashed loss of an eye etc etc.if you dont think it can happen there are many documented instance were people got killed or badley hurt, I have seen a few of them from arms beig ripped off to hands being sliced open, accidents happen no matter how safe and how much protection or education you have. Delw

a small fix on your injectors would make them alot safer and keep people from getting hurt or spilling plastic. never said a word about you molds just the SAFETY ISSUE about that injector with tips coming off ,its a very simple fix your 40 year experianced machinist should have no problem. spinner bait wire bent looks alot nicer than the quick fix with the nail. when he cuts the o-ring grrove on the tips have him put a .050 small goove in it then punch 2 .050 wire holes in the tubing and your done.

Raw raw raw here comes the cheerleaders, were 308 he is running a little late so I fixed/modified the dozen plus injectors for no reason? darn they could have saved 12 bucks in postage alone. funny cause I told 5+ of these guys to get them from him. as I didnt want to make them.

Read my last post on the injection gun thread blowback hos nothign to do with molds or the guns its more of the process in which it is used. as far as this "its mainly do to guys wanting everything too fast and perfect." Whats wrong with wanting this? If you dont want this I would wonder why. you missed the point I was making, GUYS dont worry about safety they cut corners, which you proved in your post above about having 4th graders use and unsafe process in a classroom, ie air pressure and HOT PLASTIC A women would think twice before doing such a thing., believe it ot not I dont think they would even have to think twice once would be enough for them. Dont get me wrong I let my kids pours with lee hot pots not the safeest thing for them to do, April doesnt like it either.

Blow back has nothing to do with a a mold or hand injector being wrong , it has to do with the amount of pressure one pushes on the gun and keeps pushing on the gun ie giving it pressure. perfect example fill a ballon with water and u it will show up on any and every hand injection and pressure pot injection system, again it could be alot it could be a little bit but EVERY one gets it. to minimize it and not have it happen as violent, just before pulling the nozzle tip off the mold you should tilt the gun, which most of us do automatically anyhow. as we never have anything square and flush. Vodkaman I am sure can explain this much better than I as he is an engineer and knows the correct terminology better. I will say this, your one LUCKY SOB for using that hand injector at a class, there was/is NOTHING to keep the tips/nozzle from popping off. if it did you would have had a nightmare on your hands. the O-ring is the only thing that keeps it from popping out. what some people dont realize is that metal expands and o rings get a little softer with heat which makes the nozzle coming out much eaiser. Besides I wouldnt think a school would let anyone do that if they did they are dumbass's especially on a 4th grade class. your talking chemicals and extream heat not to mention under pressure.. Delw

The relief valve however it wont work in whats currently out there and in all honesty wont work even if the hand injector was made for it. heres why. when guys (myself included) do things we do them fast and want results with no waiting. the only relief valve of sorts I was able to come up with is a 1/16" hole at a 45degree angle shooting away from the person. the injector is placed into the mold shot then tilted just a tad The port opening also has to be angled to match a angled injector nozzle. when its tilted lets say down it opens a little air pocket in that drilled hole in the mold allowing pressure to escape. I thought this would be the ticket to cure the problem of back pressure but its now. the plastic will fill that hole sometimes and it has to be picked out and guess what were guys and we don't do that for the most part. I am sure you have seen how we always cut corners being guys like were are. so that shot that one out of the ball park for me. at first it was pretty cool and worked great, my customer liked it but then he got lazy hole got pluged etc and forgot about it. glass works but so does stainless and steel and alum, over the years guys have modified turkey injectors for plastic injection, the stainless ones from your local vet supply place( they are big also, used for horses cattle) and there reasonbly priced and only need some minor modifications if any. The sueing stuff always worries me, from the time that someone expected me to pay 10k cause they left the UNOPENED box on there dinner table and the dog ate the entire stick kit and ended up in the hospitol with major medical bills. I am talking glitter raw plastic and the salt. believe it or not I had 2 of these happen. one just wanted to know what the plastic was and how to get ahold of the manufacturer so they could talk to the vet, the other threatend to sue. these were unopened boxs LMAO. in talking with people in the liability feild there is still something as common sence on the part of the user the manufacture needs to make sure that every possible thing he or she could think of is covered and warn people about it. basically if you know your product has problems your going to get pecker slapped. the other thing is anyone can sue anyone for anything. any mold/plastic manufactures can get sued, Lurecraft can get sued for someone using my mold with there plastic and vise versu id someone got burnt. there is no end to it as stupid people are still breeding to this day. there are many ways to make somethign work. all plastics work baiscally the same all heating sources work basically the same all molds work basically the same. some people just like different ways again its mainly do to guys wanting everything too fast and perfect. did you know the 2nd best way to heat plastic is the way your doing it? you have to stir it more however you will get true brighter colors the plastic will be clearer no matters whos plastic you use etc etc. The best way to heat plastic is in a oven with a even heat source or a heat exchanger like you find on real injection machines. Delw

I will see if I can get these guys that do heavy production to post and the salt issue as I only get the info from them, I am told that it varies heavy salt will shoot no problem however each cavity will get a different amount of salt and not weigh the exact same. alot as to do with the size of the mold ie if your shooting longer runs your going to have more deviation in weight, also just like hand pouring the plastic has to be a good temp to suspend the salt as it wll sink the longer it takes the plastic to harden. so its pretty much the same I would guess in that asspect

it should as its not for everyone.especially BEGINNERS to pouring plastic. If you dont have common sence or always in a hurry its the last thing you want to use. As you know Bobby and I played with these years ago.before you were even around. The only reason I started makeing the hand injection guns was that the ones out now are UNSAFE the tips pop off and plastic goes all over your hand. the laminate guns are extreamly unsafe and clumblsy and don't work half the time due to tips clogging its way to small, I have about a dozen that I reworked for people who bought them. The molds we always had just kept it quiet because people online see these things and think this is the way to go. just like the old janns net craft ones that melt, while the metal doesnt melt when the tip pops off you still get plastic every were. heres a quick tip to make the ones that are currently out SAFE, get a 1/8 drill bit and drill a hole on each side of the injector going through the side of tip as well. then use a nail in the hole as a pin this will keep the tips from popping off and you can do this with a hand drill at home. if your worried about speed in changing tips it doesnt take away anything as the nail will slip in and fall out easliy and the head of the nail will keep it from going through the hole and falling out. Delw

for one gallon of plastic a week you wouldnt have to worry about replacing O-rings or cup washers. shoot 55-200 gals a month and o-rings last about 2 months cupwashers last about a month, metal parts last forever. you want your mold to hold the same amount of plastic you put in your gun, Ie thats why the different sizes, if you have to demold inbetween shots DONT let the plastic stay in the gun or you will have problems and MAJOR safty problems as you will push to hard and you will get blowback like no tomrrow.. its best to keep your gun ALWAYS in the pot of plastic to keep it hot while your workng with it. always refilling between molds to keep salt and glitter suspended the best way is to always spn the gun once you sucked the plastic into it. until you touch the mold. they dont work with really heavy salt as it settles way to fast

using this hand injector which cost $12 and shoots a pint of plastic, last month they were on sale for $8 at Napa they are metal with screw on tops and bottoms and the nozzle size is more than perfect. using them everyday 12hours a day they will last about 2 months, they can also be welded to gether to shoot a quart part number 714-1245 you can get 320 2 inch grubs with left over 50 5in kalin grubs with lots left over of coarse you have to have the multicavity molds for it. and the list goes on. more waste is in the runner then in the baits, its a waste to use a hand injection for more than 17" in lenth as the runner will harden to fast. usually the typical runner is 5/16" - 3/8" round anything more is a waste of plastic and time.having a bigger runner than that size also increases the blow back of HOT plastic by alot. single cavity molds only need a runner of 1/4 inch and should be shot directly into the cavity, 4-10 cavity molds 1/4"-3/8 TOPS..

The learning curve in injection is not faster than hand pouring, you still have to use your basic common plastic principles, its about the same learning curve. there are also things that if your dont have any experiance in hand pouring you will never figure it out in hand injecting. hand pouring does give you experiance and you also leanr to respect how much damage hot plastic can do to unprotected body parts. there are pros and cons to both injection and hand pouring like anything else. Swimbaits are best hand poured as most have a flat top, a hand injection wouldnt even be cost efective in something like a swimbait mold. the top opening is big enough anyone can pour, it would be like throwing a hot dog down a hall way you just cant miss. not to mention the amount of plastic used in a hand injector wouldnt make it worth while, MOST not all people who do swimbaits (Flat top type) use big pots(1 gal size and up) with large openings swimbaits also get many different colors poured into them somethign a hand injector can't do. However in certain situations the smaller swimbaits can be injected like the bass trix one. (aside from dipping) and ones that dont have flat tops. however MOST if not all of the smaller injected swimbaits are shot with one color then dipped afterwords. what some guys do is paint them if your into painting swimbaits then there is nothign wrong with injecting a smaller swimbait. for the bass trix style on a production level DIPPING is the way to go, just do to the cost of molds, a knife and a spinner bait blade is a heck of alot cheaper than a mold. we have guys injection skinny dippers, there limited to 1 color 2 colors but they dont produce laminates perfectly due to the shape of the skinny dippers and are not consistant. stick baits injection vs hand pouring. is it faster NO not really unless your really set up for it, either one is going to need molds. we have customers that still use 2-5 gal pots to pour sticks and they produce 1000's a day, the key is the endless supply of plastic and molds and one other person to help you. I have a few customers that use's 20 cavity stick molds in a waffle mold ( meaning the inside plates are stacked and cut on both sides) that shoot stiks one a very high production level. 100 per shot with a $12 suction gun from napa autoparts,if I remember correctly he is shooting 100 baits in about 30-40 seconds from the time he puts the tip to the mold till the time he takes the tip out of the mold. it only takes about 5-10 seconds to shoot it the remainder he has to hold the gun against the mold till the plastic gets semi hard before demolding. he also has to take the baits out fo the mold ie 5 plates off a press onto a table pull the baits etc. However from him to go into hand pouring would be costly just on pots alone and since he has been set-up for the last 15 years using suction guns it was best to keep him like that. the problem with hand injection sticks in one shot is that the Salt and glitter doesnt all mix evenly were as when your pouring with a pot that has a mixer on it its all even. hand injection is great for curl tail baits, twin tail grubs, very fine extremities and stuff like that. however if your looking for speed the answer isnt injection or hand pour its the equipment and the molds you have as if you dont have the right stuff your wasting your time. one warning is with hand injection you will get blowback and its just dribble out of the mold or shoot back a foot when you take that hand injector off the mold. there is a few reasons for this one is mainly do to your pushing too much pressure on the mold and the runner bar(fill tube or what ever you want to call it) is way way to big. the plastic in the cavities hardens up however that big runner is still liquid, you are hold pressure upagainst plastic which is like a rubber band, then when you pull the gun away that rubber band springs back and throws hot plastic out the only opening it can that is still very hot and liquidy ie the runner being way to big which is where you stick your hand injection tip. you would be really surprised how much pressure you can get out of a hand injector that pressure is going to go somewhere. while some won't agree I DONT recommend a hand injector to someone who never poured plastic as its an accident waiting to happen. Delw

I am trying to figue out what you need, either 1000 baits or 100 molds?. looking at your other post you wanted to make stik baits so I am guesisng your talking you need 1000 baits. if you need 1000 baits , 1000 baits is very easy to do with 1-2 molds.which you can make out of RTV POP or have one made out of Aluminum. if your looking for 1000 molds thats not cost justifiable to make baits with. your talking some serious money well over 50k.and why spend that just for molds. if you truely have a need to make that many baits then you really should look at a Zorn injection system, if you dont want to spend 30-50k then you should Call them and have them hook you up with one of there customers that shoot baits for other companies. there are 2 on this board as well one in utah and one in carolina. then all you would have to do is pay for the mold and pay for there service to make your baits. a mold for a Zorn machine or any PROFESSIONAL injection system will run between 3k -10k depending on the detail and how many colors you want. they are water cooled and shoot up to 100 baits every min or there abouts. If your not to sure on what molds do or how the work read the site, pop molds andrtv molds last for 100's of baits, aluminum molds will last a life time and into the millions of baits. Also keep in mind just cause you have 1000 molds you wont be able to pour them that fast you will need help and lots of it., not to mention all the pouring equipment that goes along with it, one microwave, presto pot sta warm pot wont cut it. Delw

Greg thats cool and all and its a good idea, however I wish it was just doen here and its very easy to do. just make a catagory called soft plastic cook book or something like that every post title is names the color. allow replies allow pictures. this way you dont have one huge long thread were the pictures get to be a pain for modem users kinda like we have here in the soft bait secion, the search would be easy rss feeds are possible and you can just scroll down the list of topics. for example someone makes a topic in that section called Lt. Plum/sour grape Pepper <<< Title >>>>This would be in the post ie content<<<< then if anyone had any questions on that one particular color they could ask in replies, people could show pictures of the color they got with that recipe and share ways to make it better or worse etc etc show each other the problems they are having ect etc.that way like the cook book you dont have 100 pages of searching through and people asking questions. if someone needed a color they could in a post in that section as well and someone could paste a color or give the recomendation. any titles that dont specif the color being looked for ot the color in the post gets deleted no ifs ans or butts about it. I think it would work really good. Delw

you can get aprox 400 stiks per gal on the 5" some guys have said up to 500 on the 4" and some say 300 the reason for the big discrepentcy is due to how much salt and softener you add to your plastic as this equals more volume with a standard formula figure 350-400 the best temp depends on the plastic your using, some plastics need more temp to pour and some need less. the best way is to get it to were its pourable that would be the perfect temp. for your first time color is always mixed after reason being you will be able to see the actual color you want, record the drops on paper and then you can add color before to get the same color. for example lets say you want a red stik bait. if you put color in first your plastic is white so it wil show pink, when you heat it up the plastic will turn clear and you will have red, so doing color after heated your plastic is clear you drop in red and you will see red. glitter I recommend after the plastic is cooked, reason is glitter may bleed if in heat too long. Delw

it needs to be injected, they do pour decent out of 2 pc pop molds, cause the heat stays on the surface like rtv does. need to vent the heck out of it on any 2 pc mold as well. A 1 pcs rtv mold pours better than alum unless the alum mold is 300 degree. I have a few of the alum ones for my self they are a pain unless you inject them or the mold is very hot. its a great bait for dropshotting Canyon plastics makes the baits Delw

The single pcs mold I like, the flat top mold I have never really liked as far as the shape. the round backs are pretty good also. I have one other sf mold thats a 2 piece that looks much better with a tad bigger tail, deeper hook slot and eyes. As far as pouring shoot me an email with your phone number. they all pour pretty good. Delw

Kev snag proof frogs are not that hard to make. its a hollow frog but it still can be made pretty easy. my first one I used a drop tank off a F4-u Corsair model for the hollow part. heres what you do, make the mold out of anything pop / silicon etc. then when thats all done, make something shape round and beveled for the hollow part., attach a thin piece of metal to the bottom, insert it into the bottom part of your mold and pour around it and over it. unless its a 2 pcs then pour through the nose. when the plastic cools pull the insert out, it will leave a little slit which is no big deal, if you dont want the slit in it then take a hot knife and hold it in the slit to weld it up. works like a charm been doing them for 4 years on hollow frogs and swimbaits.