Glaucus

Do u have any of those worth laying g around still? http://lurecomponents.worthco.com/products/tools/wire-forming-tool $6.40 This wire forming tool will make "Mepps" style in-line spinners. I like this tool and recommend it!!!! It works with 0.028 inch diameter or smaller wire.

This is from: http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletAlloy.htm#recyclebatteries " Salvaged battery lead should be avoided at all costs. Since the advent of the maintenance free battery the lead content has been reduced and elements such as strontium, calcium and others have been added. Most of these elements cast very poorly, ruin a pot of good alloy they are blended with and are extremely toxic. The quantity and quality of lead from batteries is not worth the risk or the effort. From "Linstrum" on the Castboolits forum - Maintenance free/low maintenance batteries use calcium metal-doped lead to catalyze the hydrogen gas. The lead alloy used in batteries also contains a bit of antimony and arsenic to help harden and strengthen the lead. When hydrogen comes in contact with arsenic and antimony, the hydrogen reacts to form ammonia analogues called arsine and stibine, AsH3 and SbH3. In World War One the Germans experimented with these as war gases. As such they were highly effective since they are deadly in amounts too small to easily detect. Do yourself and everyone else in the vicinity a favor and DO NOT use batteries. Severe lung damage and even death could result. Sell the batteries to a recycler and let the professionals deal with the risks."

Flux is used mainly to reverse the oxidation of your lead alloy. The slag/dross that you see floating on the surface of your molten lead alloy is oxidized tin (or other alloying metal). http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/HowTo/Fluxes%20for%20casting%20alloy.pdf If you use tin, note that it will slowely damage/corrode your melting pot. http://www.wenesco.com/ceralac.htm

The ones I found are expensive, $20 for 3 blades and rivets. http://www.thornebros.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=41358&idcategory=1829

http://lurecomponents.worthco.com/products/spinner-blades/buzzer

I've used rust remover that contains phosphoric acid mixed with rubbing alcohol (about a 50/50 mix) as a flux to solder stainless steel. It’s a bit tricky to use because it evaporates almost instantly when the molten solder touches it. This flux produces acrid fumes, don’t breathe them and do your soldering in front of a fan or outdoors! You can ‘tin’ each individual piece of SS wire with solder separately using the rust remover as flux. Once ‘tinned’ the wires can be soldered together using rosin as a flux. 50/50 or 60/40 tin lead solders will both work. I use a ‘Weller’ 100/140 watt soldering gun to do the soldering. You will also have to wash of the burnt flux residue from the wire when you’re done. Here’s a picture of a spinner bait loop that I soldered.

Oops! Well better late than never! I hope you had a very happy birthday!!!!!!!!!!!! http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/user/11291-redg8r/

I don't remember what pictures I posted before, but this is what I still have.

The description sounds like a “Presto” spinner blade.

I've had great results with Aerowax. Home Depot might have something similar: http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/topic/27381-best-material-for-making-lead-casting-mold/ When your mold is finished, give it a good scrubbing with Ajax, Comet, etc, to remove any leftover wax. Pour a few test casting as well to burn off any other residue. If the casting looks good, then all is well, BUT if the casting looks blistered, bubbled, etc or otherwise imperfect, then you will need to coat the mold cavity with a refractory coating. I use 'Rapine Mould Prep' from Dixie Gun Works. Other members here use Frankford Arsenal Drop Out.

I've fished that pattern for snow fish before. Had a big tanker follow my bait. I figure eighted for a few minutes but the fish wouldn't bite. Next time I'll try a pirouette !

http://kingfishingtools.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=14

I would recommend the large # 2 clevises for number 3 and up French blades. I’ve only bought the # 2 clevises, and they are from the old Pen Tac company when it was owned by Jed Davis in Seattle Washington. Here are some pictures with measurements: Clevises with a # 5 French blade. The clevis is about 0.224 inches tall, almost a ¼ inch. It’s made from 0.047 inch brass wire. The hole is made for 0.032 inch wire. Anything bigger will bind and not spin, I tried 0.035” wire, but it was a tight fit. Hope this helps.

Scroll down to the Dream Clevis 2000 http://www.pen-tac.c...ccessories.html

Try bending the "J" end of the spinnerbait frame into an "S" shape. This will anchor the wire and keep it from loosening.

Hope you are having a great Birthday today! Thank you for running this wonderful site! What did ya get? And a Happy Birthday to all the other members celebrating their birthday today!

Have you tried King Maufacturing? They have an add on this board...it pops up on the right hand side of the screen. Phone # (952) 474-3140

http://www.lilmacmolds.com http://www.fishingweightmolds.com

How about the LilMac Midget bullet sinker mold? http://www.lilmacmolds.com/Midget_Molds.html Contact them to confirm that the sinker has a concave bottom.

If money is no object, then you can cut apart the the following gang trolls for the blades. These willows are massive and twice the size of #8's : 3" x 5 1/4" Hammered Willow Leaf Blades Gibbs/Nortac - Catch the Good Life with Gibbs: Jumbo Willow Leaf? Luhr Jensen - - Dave Davis Lake Troll

Shouldn't this post be in the wire bait section, the place were the real men post !! I've done a bit of R&D (rippoff and duplicate) of a related lure, the Zzinger. This mold was my first Bondo mold and was made in 1988. It's 20 years old and has poured over 50 castings. (Ignore the 2 holes that I drilled in the back of the casting, it was a balancing experiment) Luckily I saved a private message about how I make my Bondo molds. I hate re-typing stuff First you need a pattern, or master that you're going to copy. It can be made from metal, wood, plastic, etc., but it must be fairly strong and rigid, have a smooth surface, and have no undercuts, so that it and the lead casting will come out of the mold. You could also copy an existing lure as well. Here

Here is the text from Mike's spinnerbait mold article, unfortunately the pictures weren't archived. http://web.archive.org/web/20030213103340/http://crankenstein.net/' rel="external nofollow">

For $10/quart, body filler is cheap, fast, and effective for rapid prototyping lead lures/tackle! These were all poured using 'Bondo' molds.

Grind the end of the wire to a 45* angle

Here's how I magged an ABU 7000 The only thing I made is the carrier, it’s the teardrop shaped piece of 1/8” (3/16” will also work) aluminum. There are two threaded holes in the carrier, one is to attach it to the reel and one is for the magnet adjusting screw. The spring is from a bicycle quick-release wheel. The 2 rare-earth magnets (1/4” x 1/10”) are epoxied to a ny-lock nut. The ny-lock nut stays put on the end of the cap screw and won't vibrate or shake loose. I’m not sure what size screws I used, but they fit through the existing clicker holes in an Abu 7000 side plate, the side plate is not drilled or modified, and the click can be re-installed if I want. When adjusted and tuned with the right oil and brake blocks, this reel won't backlash, yet casts as far as any other baitcasting reel!