Glaucus

Barlows sell them http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showprod.cfm?&DID=6&CATID=59&ObjectGroup_ID=664

Here's an article that mentions spinner blades hitting the head http://www.fishontario.com/articles/muskie-master/bill-craig/index.html "Craig discovered that trolling large safety-pin spinners just below the surface really turned on muskie, at least the giants he was after. However, he wasn't satisfied with any lure until he stumbled on the Hawg Spin, and even then, he felt the need to adjust the basic design. "I found with Mike Fudally's spinners that you had to bend the arm back so that the blades clatter together on the weighted head," he said. "When I sent the doctored baits back to Mike, he just couldn't believe that I was trolling with them. "

"Stainless Steel Quick Change Clevis" http://www.fishermanshack.net/mcart/index.cgi?task=show&cat=Clevises

http://www.luremaking.com/catalogue/catalogue-index/catalogue-items/fluorescent_powder_paint_colours.htm http://www.herbiesmagicdust.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=lure_paint&cart_id=1579734.20056

Water Gremlin makes it http://www.watergremlin.com/Accessories/accessoriesindex.htm I think this company might also make pencil lead in several sizes Oregon Tackle MFG Inc 9299 Southeast 64th Avenue, Portland, OR 97206 (503) 777-4021

I haven't seen a tool that wraps or twists 0.062" wire, but these tools can form loops,coils and bends: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60346 http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60401 http://www.ksmetals.com/Accessories/default.asp#wireform Or make your own: http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/tooling.html#jig http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=1814

Happy Birthday, Jerry! Hope you have a great day and many more!

I found a bit of information about heat treating Nitnol at http://www.smallparts.com/products/descriptions/nw.cfm ?This wire's annealed temper has a programmed straight shape, but due to its flexible properties, it can be spooled without effecting a permanent set. A new memory is imparted by restraining the material in exactly the shape required and heating to a temperature above 932?F (500?C) for a minimum of five minutes. The shape will be set upon cooling and will exhibit the same flexibility and resistance to deformation as the original wire. And it can be repeatedly retrained to achieve new shapes.?

Spinnerbait tutorials http://www.luremaking.com/catalogue/download_guide.htm click ?Free Download? http://www.tacklemaking.com/tacklemakers/default.php?content=knowledge/wire_baits Here are two good knots http://www.marinews.com/fishing/Knots%20&%20Rigging/fk_clinchhb.htm http://www.marinews.com/fishing/Knots%20&%20Rigging/fk_palomar.htm Tie your line to the wire R bend or loop part of the V shaped frame i.e. =====@==---------?-----?----?---?--?.??.???`?.??.???`?.?.?<

I've used balsa wood, though any reasonably hard or rigid material should work. Wood, metal, plastic or even cardboard that's epoxy coated would work. http://tinypic.com/4kxjbp http://tinypic.com/4kxjix Achieving symmetry is not easy, but you can align the eye sockets by drilling a 1/16" hole through the pattern so that they are evenly positioned. You can also build up your pattern in layers like plywood, by cutting out two mirrored pieces together (i.e. a left hand and right hand layer), and then gluing them on each side of your master.

What is the difference between Lakeland's plate finish compared to the premium plate finish that is used on their spinner blades? In your opinion, is the premium worth the extra cost?

http://www.roscoinc.com/prod_spinnderblade.cfm

From http://www.n-ssa.org/NORTHWEST/Casting%20Bullets.htm "Smoke the mold cavity. We can use the smoke from a match, a cigarette lighter, or a carbide lamp to coat the cavity of the mold to help cast good quality bullets. The thin layer of carbon left by smoking acts as an insulator and slows cooling of the melt in the mold. The delayed cooling helps to eliminate some casting problems. ?Mold Prep? (a liquid) sold by Rapine works similarly. I usually use a carbide lamp to smoke the mold cavity before starting to cast, and it is surprising how much it improves the quality of the bullets cast from some molds."

http://www.lasc.us/FryxellFluxing.htm

When you mentioned 6%, it reminded me of this article: http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/sportfishingtax.html The rodbuilders "Constructive Sale Price" "60% rule" exemption might also apply to the "small" lure maker . Might be worth checking out.

Others have also found titanium wire leaders to be unreliable http://muskie.outdoorsfirst.com/board/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=12686&posts=20 http://www.muskyhunter.com/forums/generalforum/4106.html Titanium/nitnol will break easily if nicked, scratched, etc. http://www.ultimateniti.com/documents//Document%20Center%204-24-02%20UTEC%20Page%202%20Basics%20of%20Shape%20Memory.doc http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/matls.html

Here are some other melters to consider http://www.magmaengr.com/products.php http://www.lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/casting.htm

http://www.americanfishingwire.com/titanium.html

Store bought brass sinkers (as well as brass lure bodies) are made using screw machines. They could be made using a manual lathe, though it would be un-economical to do so if the sinkers are available commercially. It's possible to cast brass sinkers using the 'lost wax' or Cire Perdue method, though again un-economical .

I found this on another board, polyester resin cast in a bondo mold. http://www.noreast.com/discussion/ViewTopic.cfm?todaystopics=false&Topic_ID=22507&startrow=41&page=1

There are/were several gage systems in use depending on the material. http://www.sizes.com/materls/wire.htm When ordering, it is always well to give the decimal equivalent of the gage size and also the limits, plus or minus, that will be acceptable. (ie. stainless steel, #10 gage, 0.024 inch)

Check these sites for spincast machinery: http://www.northcott.org/index.htm http://www.tekcast.com/ http://www.conleycasting.com/index.html Another option is to contract work out to a company such as: http://www.cdlures.20m.com/

LaPala: I didn't do a statistical analysis to find the average weights, but I checked a couple of times and there was a small variation of +- .1 grams, probably due to the sprue nubs. The bismuth was from store bought "bismuth sinkers", and I only have about 3oz. I had to cast a bismuth sinker, weigh it, then remelt and recast it, the weight remained practically the same each time (I reused the solder as well). I used an Ohaus triple beam balance (.1g graduations) to weigh all the sinkers. I calculated the volume for the 1 ? oz sinker to be 3.8 cubic centimeters. I measured the volume indirectly using Archimedes' principle. I hung 3 sinkers by a thread from the balance, weighed them "in air" then "in water". The difference in weight was 11.4 g. 11.4/3=3.8. 3.8grams of water has the volume of approximately 3.8cc For more info try these sites: http://www.matweb.com/index.asp?ckck=1 http://www.magmaengr.com/books.html http://www.lasc.us/CastBulletNotes.htm http://www.nwtskirmisher.com/useful-casting.shtml

Battlefield Wire http://www.buzzblade.com/

I edited my post and added solder and bismuth to the list.