dlaery

Maybe I should have ask if someone knows where I can buy some bullet head spinnerbaits with a good cone shape collar to hold the skirt on.

I have been trying to order some spinnerbaits from LPO and it will not take my order. Does anyone else have trouble with this site? I was using Chrome browser and now I have tried IE and still not luck?

I am going.

I tried to do a search on here to find a post about the RTV I use but I can't get any results with the search. I think It is called Rhodisil . There was some others in tha post that may have found a place to get it and may have tried it. I only used it because my customer furnished the RTV. It seems to be good stuff, it is platinum cure, I think that means it better? It seems pretty soft when cured, I am guessing it is a 30 durometer.

It is called a PID controller. this is where I got mine http://www.auberins.com/

electrostatic is a special gun with an electrical charge and then hook a ground wire to the rack with the jigs and then spray the powder from the gun. the electrical charge creates a negative positive causing the paint to attract to the jigs through static electricity, kind of like rubbing a balloon on your head and sticking the balloon to the ceiling.

My experience with a household oven baking powder is, when you open the door the temp drops from 350 down to 200 and takes 7 minuets to get back to 350, then is when your 10 minuets start. I bake just about everything for 20 minuets. Also the thermostat on and oven varies a lot, when heating it may go to 350 and shut off, but the temp keeps rising because the element is still hot. When the temp is coming down, it my get as low as 275 before the thermostat kicks back on. I was having problems with the paint chipping, so I installed an electronic heat control switch to keep the temp at 350 constant or whatever I set it at. On the bright colors like blaze orange I usually bake them at 375 for 20 minuets. I am not totally happy with the color after baking, but I thought is was because I spray electrostatic and it doesn't put on as thick of coat as dipping, and these colors look better if they have a white base coat. just some thoughts.

Well, I've never thought about sealing he bottom because the 1st pour has modeling clay in the bottom. I have never poured the silicone in the frame first. I don't think it would run out from under the frame, but I have been wrong, what a shocker

Nothing, gravity.

This is 1-3/4" x 1/4" (aka Lattice) PVC purchased from a Lowes Home Improvement (same as Home Depot, Menards etc...) The short piece is Glued with PVC glue to make a "L" shape piece to be used with the clamps to make any size of box you want. This sets on a board with wax paper.

If you had a piece of Teflon rod to take the place of the rattle. I am going to guess the JB Weld won't stick to the Teflon. If it is a nominal size that may be easy to get. I have several different sizes if you need some. Take some Vaseline and thin with some mineral spirits, then brush it on your rattle to coat the rattle so the JB Weld won't stick to the rattle. these are just some "suggestions"

I have had pretty good luck with it holding with thin applications.But I get in a hurry and sometimes it pops out. Maybe I didn't have it clean enough.

Has anyone tried one of these?

Thanks, that is just what I was looking for.

Can someone direct me to a place to get a small ladle that works good with pouring spinner/buzz baits. I think I would like a bottom pour. Does anyone have an opinion what works best. It looks like the bottom pour with the spout would not over pour as bad. The ladle I have is a little big and it is hard to keep the lead from pouring around the wire. Thanks,

I walk to work. buy everything online But my wife keeps the road hot. Gas here is $3.68 gallon, but that is subject to change

I am sure you can build a fluid bed to do this, but my experience with a larger fluid bed was uneven fluidizing, one end of the bed was perfect and the other end was not enough fluid and too much paint would get on those heads and then increase the air to correct that side and then I had too much air on the other side. I thought the pours membrane in the bed was faulty so I tried a different one and it has the same problem a different direction. then I made chambers under the fluid bed so I could adjust the air from side to side and that helped a lot. then finally I gave up on that and went to electrostatic painting. On the rigs I use a heat gun and a single dip cup and then hang and bake. I use powder with the glitter already mixed in, you will need to use glitter that will take the heat. I have tried to clear powder over eyes and sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It clouds up the eyes. The heat didn't melt the eyes. The eyes I have stick to the powder pretty good. I have not had any complaints on the eyes falling off. These eyes are put on powder painted heads, packed 3 per clam pack and then shipped from Missouri to California and my customer would let me know if the eyes came off.

I make a 1/8oz 4/0 jig for swimbaits. You can see it on my website.

Does anyone know what the weed guard material is made of? I need to buy some in .026 or .028 and was trying to figure out what the stuff is so I can order some in a roll.

The cheapest I have found is Rotometals. I have not purchased from this company but it has been referred to a lot here.

If you Goggled Tin (SN) you know that there is only 1 - 10 not 110 , not tin foil or tin on your barn. I would find it hard to believe that any junk yard would have scrap tin but if they do, that would be good. Lead free "Bar solder" is Tin (SN) and Tin (SN) melts at close to the temp of lead if you are not using a thermometer. It will melt in your Lee pot fine. Tin (SN) works great in a Lee Pot and pours very good. the spru is harder to break off. The bad thing about Tin (SN) is the price. I use to buy it for $5 a pound and then all of the sudden everything in metals went sky high.

I use this.

\I don't know, but the lead doesn't seem to hurt it. I keep my lead at about 750 to 840 degrees and pour into several RTV molds and have never seen any damage to the RTV. I spin cast into vulcanized silicone molds everyday and a mold lasts a long time. If it is 3/4 oz you might get 1000 to 2000 pours at 10 parts per mold. That's 10 to 20 thousand parts and then the mold is still not in bad shape. It will have a small parting line and then where it breaks off it will have spot similar to what it looks like when you hand pour. A mold for small jigs, 1/32. would do a lot more. You ever notice when lead splashes on the table or you hand how the lead "freezes" pretty quick? A metallurgist told me once that lead didn't have as much thermal energy like say for instance molten steel, Get a little piece of hot steel on you arm when you are welding or using a cutting torch and you feel the difference

Thanks, that's good to know. I still have a lot of the smoky smelly stuff to use up first.

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