dlaery

There is some similar to what you descrige on captainhookswarehouse.com If you do a search on JOBEE PRO WORM HOOK on Google it should take you straight to them..

In this case you need a bigger truck.

This is just from my point of view, or from another side, not disputiing anything that has been said here. When selling you product to a retailer, in order for him to make 35%, he will have to mark up 50% In Bob's example of: That means the dealer paid me $65, marked it up 50%, and sell it for $100, to make 35% on his $100 sale. In order for me to make 25%, in the $65, subtract $6 for FET, now my selling price is $59. To make 25%, I will have to produce that product for $39 Now I have the same expenses on less Gross profit. I have machines, tools, molds to replace or repair, plus the building, but no traffic.

Thanks Bob, I took a look and will try it out, the bad news is, I've already paid for G-Wiz I ment to ask Salty on the finished bait he shows, how was it sanded? By hand or some automated way of getting a nice looking finish?

thanks, I use the G-Wizard to figure my feeds and speeds. It's helpful On cutting the blanks I use the 7/16 em to knock down the surface and clean up with the fly cutter. Then around the hinge and around the handle, I use a 1/4 em and finish with a ball mill. On the cavities, after a rough cut I come back with a finish cut. My feed rate is 10 on the 1/16 ball nose cuts. I have flood coolant so my bits are doing good and I think that has sped things up. I use to break them before I would wear them out. Now I might be able to wear some out. It's a good thing that MSC has next day delivery. I have access to another CNC, I don't remember what kind it is but it will only do 2-1/2 axis. The code has to be punched in manually. I have thought about using it to cut out the blanks. It has an auto tool changer. I would have it in my shop if I had room for it. I have thought about trying to retrofit it to 3 axis but I don't have much experience or time right now.

Yes, I have made several 2 sided hinged molds. The biggest end mill I have found is a 7/16" with a 3/8" shaft, Sometimes I use that to take off .270" off the mold and sometimes I use a flycutter. I have to take that much off in order to leave enough for the hinge. I can cut a blank mold, both sides with a Do-It style handle in about 4 hours. I just set it up and turn it on. I havn't cut any yet but I am going to cut the wood handles also. I bought a dovetail bit to cut the slot in the handle. and have tried that. What I use 1mainly for cutting cavities is a 1/16 ball mill. For jigs with small diameter hook shafts I use a 1/32 and I have a .200 end mill. I can't even see those small end mills. I have magnifing glasses and still hard to see. I spend lots of hours working on these drawings. Here is a link of a couple molds I have done. molds

Well I'm going to chime in here. I bought aTaig mill about 10 months ago to make molds for lead pouring. It has been a big learning curve, Cad software, Mach software, milling machine. I have wanted to try some wood blanks, but havn't had the motivation/time. So I enjoy reading threads like this.

If you lightly powder (talc, baby powder etc...) the mold cavity and the ladle, that will make it pour and fill better. If you use too much it will show on the lead head. It will also dull the finish of the lead.

I guess this is not a bottom pour pot?

Which mold is it? Sounds like lead is not hot enough or you are not pouring fast enough.

I will have to agree with Cadman and Jigman. This is a FYI when I would bake with the weedguard in, I had some metal tubeing that just fit over the weedguard and it worked ok, just a pain to try to paint. But, the weed guard shrank about a 1/8 to1/4" shorter.

When you say they look horrible, what do you mean? I think you mold looks good and I agree with what was said about the spru. The spru needs to be not round but in the shape of a slot, I have attached a pic of one of mine. I draw a cone shape down to a narrow slot or oval where the spru goes into the cavity. I think the slot actually alows air to escape to fill better.

Yes, clamping pressure. Lead is poured in with a ladle. I make my ladles to hold just the right amount of lead to pour in.

On 9" molds, I spin at 500 to 1000 and on 12" 400 to 700 I guess the 12" is goin faster, surface speed, than the 9" If you spin too fast, the lead will flash between the two mold halves. I also keep pressure from 25 to 40. I can also spin clockwize or counter clockwize. Then there is a timer, 10 seconds on most molds.

I need to change what I said. 1 person would benefit, in spru removal, and it would be faster for 1. I guess I was thinking of cost. If you could come up with DIY at a low cost or a used a machine and then have someone make your molds, it would be a benefit.

"Bigger is better", numbers that is, but some of the "other stuff" would be; very small defect where spru is attached. Location of this can be put in a spot that is not noticeable and the centrifugal force will force the lead through a small area, like the bait holder of a jig. Does not need cutting off. The jigs require very little effort to remove from spru. Instead of breaking off 1 at a time, you can usually break off several at a time depending on what size it is, providing the mold is made correct. I also pour Zinc and make key chains with this. You could put quarters in your mold and then you could really make some money. I'm not sure what that would cost, maybe big time. Seriously, the silicone molds will pick up very good detail. A DIY I'm sure is possible, depending on what you are pouring, variable RPM's and pressure would be nice. I don't think a DIY spincast would benefit 1 person. I need a minimum of 4 people loading molds to keep the spincast machine busy. And then you would need 10 to 15 molds to keep them busy. Now you have to have someone count and bag or rack for painting etc.. etc.. Bottle necks. not that kind. You increase production in one area and gets backed up in another.

The equipment does. The video kinda makes it look like a bigger deal than it really is.

Try this link

i do spincasting. What do you want ot know?

You havn't said what you are pouring but I wouldn't worry about adding or using tin or antimony in my lead. We hand poured for 14 years, never fluxed, never added tin or antimony (didn't know what they were) and just used soft lead. If you buy scrap lead, you will need to melt it down outside in something other than a bottom pour pot. Scooping off the dross (crud) on top will clean your lead. If you flux you will not waste a much lead. Then pour the lead into ingots to use in your melting pot. If you don't want to mess wih melting your lead outside, buy ingots of soft lead already "cleaned".

Remember that lead cools very fast, so keeping you ladel hot and in the lead, (if possible) when unloading the mold, would be important. Is the barb pointing uphill? that makes it more difficult to fill. Also you need to pour fast. Thats hard to do sometimes. Does your ladle have the point at the pouring spot like hawnjigs pics? That is really helpful in pouring. You know Cadman talked about filing ("file ing", not filling, I don't know how to spell) some air vents to prevent air intrapment, when trying to pour fast, if you hold the mold at an angle so some air will escape out the top when pouring. Try some of the baby powder on your ladle and in the mold. And I think also that the bottom pour pot would help, but you could still have trouble. One other thing, you said the mold is modified, does it have a larger hook than what is called for? Is the hook taking up some extra space in the lead collar? Just a thought.

One thing will help ladle pouring is dust you ladel with powder. I use industrial talc, it does not have perfume in it. you will have to re-dust about every 5 to 10 pours, but it will help a lot.

How big are the cans?

Getting old is better than not getting old.

I think Worth has them. I think they are called a jitter bug blade. I might be wrong.