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charkins

TU Member
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Everything posted by charkins

  1. Lead shot would work if it's not outlawed where you are fishing.
  2. Make that a third to seeing a larger picture of that bait!!
  3. Sickle Tail Shad Sickle Tail Fluke
  4. charkins

    Homeless

    George, I am glad you are ok!! It was nasty here in southern Oklahoma, but not near as bad what you guys had.
  5. I doubt that the LC scent will penetrate much. You could mix some scent with some worm oil and put it in the bag. Some of the guys use some way out scents, but I just stick with LC shad and crawfish.
  6. A fluid bed uses less paint and gives more even coverage. It also leaves the eyes of jigs free of paint, even down to 1/64th. Well worth the money. You can buy one for the price of the paint you save. Dayooper has a good one at TJ's Tackle
  7. I use LC scents primarily, they are concentrated. I use about 3 drops per ounce of plastic. I coat all of my baits with worm oil. Hope this helps.
  8. Number one, stay away from Jann's molds unless you like third degree burns. I threw my injector and molds in the trash. I like Jann's, hate their molds. Number two, Del has really good senko molds. I have been using one for years. I have no trouble pouring with it. Yes, it is more expensive and yes it is worth it. Del is also very helpful if you have a problem or a question. Hope this helps you. Welcome to the world of soft plastics.
  9. Well, I got it to pour. I used LC 502 plastic and added some softener and some heat stabilizer. I left the salt out. The tubes are very very soft. I wonder if they will hold together for even one fish. I tilted the mold some and I coated the inside of the mold and the rods with worm oil. I had very little success until I heated the mold and coated with worm oil. I tried a two color pour, but they really looked awful. I hope this helps someone else. Anyone got any more ideas, I would be glad to try them.
  10. I have the rods all the way down. Formula is 8 oz LC 500 extra strength plastisol, 5 teaspoonful salt. I presume this is a stock mold. I have not tried tilting the mold when pouring. I am pouring from 2 cup pyrex with the plastic smoking hot.
  11. Cadman did a MUCH better job explaining it. My hat's off to you Cadman!!
  12. I bought a used Del-Mart 5 inch tube mold. I have been trying to pour in it with no success. I have heated the mold and even heated the rods to 225 degrees. I have the plastic smoking hot to the point I am afraid it will scorch. Nothing seems to work. I get 1/2 a tube down the length of the mold or I get one side fairly good with some on the other side. I just can't get it to pour a whole tube. Anyone got any ideas?? Someone have some experience with this?? Thanks
  13. I use rod wrapping thread to tie living rubber material on jigs and spinnerbaits. I tie it off, lay layers of rubber on, wrap with thread using a bobbin. I then tie off the thread and coat thread with head cement. I then stretch rubber and cut ends to get the strands to separate. This works great and it doesn't come off. One drawback. It is impossible to change skirts, you just have to cut it off and start over.
  14. I use an ice tea spoon to stir with. I use the handle to stir with, not the spoon end.
  15. I hope you have a speedy recovery and are back making baits real soon!!!
  16. I'm with you Nova!! How do you pick???
  17. Senkosam is right on. Durham's Water Putty. It sets up like plaster of paris but it is much harder. The RTV rubber makes a real good bait too. If you want a bait that has more of a rounded appearance, RTV is the way to go. By the way, RTV is expensive.
  18. Thanks for all of the info guys. On the bit, did you use a standard metal bit? Thanks again
  19. Does anyone remember what type of bit you used to drill the hole, and what size fittings, dies, etc? Thanks
  20. TJ's Tackle made the one I am using. He is a TU member. It works great!
  21. I can't find the post about how to make it. I think it was lost when the server went down. I do remember that the guys found a way to change the thermostat. The thermostat was under something on the bottom of the pot. If any of you guys remember all of the steps to make it, we would appreciate it if you could put it down. Thanks
  22. I certainly wouldn't make the forms unless it was absolutely necessary. The forms are fairly cheap.
  23. Two things work for me. I use the Super Glue Gel and sometimes I use some 2 part epoxy glue. A little dab will do you on the epoxy. I also use throw away plastic pans like rubbermaid meal containers, sandwich containers, etc.
  24. I remember some of the soft plastic guys building pouring pots out of frydaddies. Are any of you guys still using those? If so, how are they working out? I have been thinking about it, but I would have to buy bits, taps, etc. to make it. Just wondering if it would be worth the effort. Thanks
  25. For small batches of plastic, a 100 ml beaker works great. Get 3 of them and heat all 3 colors at one time, then pour. Plastic won't stay hot long, but with just a few molds it should be ok. You can get the beakers from a scientific supply or if you know a compounding pharmacist, he can order you some pyrex beakers. Make sure they are PYREX. I wouldn't suggest heating the pyrex or anchor hocking cups on a hot plate or griddle. JMHO. I have heard people say they crack that way. I only use microwave to heat plastic. The metal pans are a pain in the side. Once you start using the microwave, you will be happy with the results.
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