BigTimeBuzzer

I poured around a 1000 today. Drop me a line, I can do them all but the 1/100. I havent acquired a mold for that size yet. I don't get alot of calls for them. Yell at me if I can help and we can discuss the hooks then...BTB

Shoot me a email I maybe able to help you....BTB

This is my take on it...I had rather use thread than wire...I have better control with thread....Just start on the jig collar and wrap the thread over itself until it is tight and won't slip when you pull it. Add your skirt material as you wind the thread around the head. Then continue to wind and KEEP IT TIGHT and tie it off when you are satisfied with the look of it. Add a drop of good head cement and you are ready to catch them. If you have any more ?'s just message me....BTB

There are MANY ways to develop the path that a buzzer will take. All things do effect it's path, from tip to tail. Water is a great force to deal with, and you know it can not be controled so you have to try to control what you can, THE BUZZ BAIT ITSELF. Two blades, turning against each other will make the force equal, from the left and the right, and make it run straight. But two blades, turning in the same direction will cause the pulling effect to continue at double the speed. It is amazing what you can make a buzzer do with a bend here and a tweek there. I am in the process of developing two different buzzbaits with swing arms. I feel that there is a vast area of TWEEKS with these two guys. If my ideas work like they look like they will, I don't believe keeping them in a straight track will be a problem. But then again, this is from a sketch in my head and some ruff drawings, but it looks like it will be a worthy project to persue. Some of the best times in the lure world is in research and development. Then comes the satisfaction of seeing it work like you thought it would and the feeling that it gives you when it does....THERE IS (NOTHING) LIKE IT!!!!

Well I might as well add my .02 here...Throw my hat in the ring...Whatever you want to call it...Here Goes....I have been making these things for more years than I care to mention and have found out a thing or two over the years. A straight tracker, though it maybe hard to find, can be accomplished, BUT WHY? Most of the time when you are throwing a buzzer you are throwing at something/around something/trying to get under something/or casting to schooling fish that is busting shad. I have made them with one blade/two blades/three blades/four blades. When it comes to a buzzer there isn't alot that I have not tried in my over a 1/4 of a century ponderings/foolings with these things. There is ALOT you can do to a buzzer to make them SCREAM, besides draggin' it to the lake and back. That will work but can be accomplished in many ways. If you saw a buzzbait that I made and use to fish with you may think it was something I found in a tree that some poor fool had left after a bad night of night fishing. Mind you I dont make them this way to sell as no one would ever buy them BUT I MAKE THEM THIS WAY FOR ME!!!!....WHY, BECAUSE THEY WORK!!!! and WORK VERY WELL!!!....I use to have the $$$ and still have a old trophy or three to prove it....lol. BUT ANYWAYS BACK TO THE TRACKING ISSUE, it is alot of little things that add up to make a big thing work. The head design, for one, common sense will tell you that the bigger something is the more force that water will push against it. Either to lift it/make it go straight/or go to the left or right/or even down. With that said, knowldege would cause you to think, the flatter head that you used, the less PUSH to the left or right you would have to deal with from the water. THAT HELPS...Then there is the hook, the longer the hook shank is, the more the water has to push against it. Same for the skirt, a big full skirt will make the bait fall slower, But it will again give the water something LARGER for it to push. The wire, needs to be straight as possible, BUT it can be shorten from the head to the line tie to make a more compact bait, hence less surface again. THEN THERE IS THE BLADE, you name it and I have tried it, or at least tried what I deemed worthy. I stuck with the blades that turn off center, not the thru-wire models that most companies use today. The blades I use have the wire on one side of the blade and don't cross thru the center of the blade from one side to the other, via a hole. I found these fit my needs the best so that is what I went with and still use today. The blade is what makes the whole thing TICK!!!with the help of the wire that it spins on. The straighter that it stays, the less pull you will have to deal with in forcing it left or right. The smaller the blade, the less force you will have but everyone LOVES THEM BIG BLADES...lol. So you need to watch the cup of the blade...make sure the wholes are inline for the wire to pass thru....many small things add up to DIRECTION....UNLESS YOU (DON'T) WANT IT TO GO THAT WAY....then that is where years of tinkering and T&E come in to play. I came up with a buzzer a few years ago that my brother deemed (THE D.U.I.) that you can DRIVE!!! If you are in the front of the boat and cast it straight in front of you, IT WILL GO TO THE BANK!!!! ANYWHERE that the blade can turn, IT WILL GO....under docks/under overhangs/in and around boat slips/you name it and if the blade can turn it will go there...I made it for night fishing so you want have to cast toward the cover all night long. You cast straight in front of you and it will find the cover all night long, as well as the fish. EVERYONE that has field tested them for me says the same thing, MAN YOU HAVE A HIT ON YOUR HANDS HERE AND YOU NEED TO GET A PATENT ON THIS BABY.BUT SHE STILL REMAINS A WELL KEPT SECRET BUT FOR A FEW THAT PROWL THE NIGHT LOOKING FOR TREASURES!!!!!LOL. So I may not be the greatest guy to help you make something run straight, but like I said before, it can be done, but my question is....WHY????

At least you are getting something to work with. I CAN'T EVEN DO/GET THAT!!!! I have looked all over for a 1000 #4 Sickles in gold/bronze/or even black and all I get is the same ol' tune....BACKORDERED!!!! I finally found a 1000 #4 blacks and they ask me almost $60 for them. I didn't need them that bad. I wish someone would start making a jig hook similar to this and take care of the problem once and for all. Nothing makes you pick up the pace, and start making a better product, like a little friendly competition business. AND BESIDES, I HATE GETTING SOMETHING IN THAT YOU HAVE TO WORK ON FOR A HOUR TO USE!!!!!!!

I figured the kink in the hook helped with keeping the bead and blade in place. It would also serve the purpose of keeping the tubing from sliding. I don't see them being to hard to make myself, but I have been doing this sorta thing for over 20 years now, so not alot surprises me anymore..

I don't think it would be any trouble coming up with a head/mold that is the same or very close to that style head. The problem will come with the hook. I think that a head can be made (very) similar to this with a little custom work, on both the mold and the hook. That's just me two cents....

All of mine were custom made from bar stock aluminum. They are not the easiest things in the world to come by. I had to go all the way to Alabama to get my first ones. I hope this helps....The PopeyeMaker/Chet-Fly

AND JUST WHEN YOU THOUGHT THE MONSTER WAS DORMAT FOR THE WINTER....HE REARS HIS CRAFTY HEAD....ENUFF SAID...

SORRY ABOUT THE MULTI'S GUYS......I HAVE NO IDEA....

There is not a big lot you can do about the wearing on a buzzbait. If you bypass the rivet you loose alot of the squeak but if you replace them with a metal bead they will last longer. As for the holes in the blades and the shaft. if you use it there will be wear. When metal turns on metal there is nothing you can do about the friction. If I fix a buzzer for myself to use in a night tournament it will usually last the length of the tourny....about four hours. It will scream like a panther but it wont last for ever. A buzzer starts to wear when you start to use it, and the more you use it the better it squeaks and the faster it wears through.That's why they hang them out the window for the air to speed the process up. It is one of those #$% if I do and @#$ if I dont type deals. Good Fishin' BTB

There is not a big lot you can do about the wearing on a buzzbait. If you bypass the rivet you loose alot of the squeak but if you replace them with a metal bead they will last longer. As for the holes in the blades and the shaft. if you use it there will be wear. When metal turns on metal there is nothing you can do about the friction. If I fix a buzzer for myself to use in a night tournament it will usually last the length of the tourny....about four hours. It will scream like a panther but it wont last for ever. A buzzer starts to wear when you start to use it, and the more you use it the better it squeaks and the faster it wears through.That's why they hang them out the window for the air to speed the process up. It is one of those #$% if I do and @#$ if I dont type deals. Good Fishin' BTB

There is not a big lot you can do about the wearing on a buzzbait. If you bypass the rivet you loose alot of the squeak but if you replace them with a metal bead they will last longer. As for the holes in the blades and the shaft. if you use it there will be wear. When metal turns on metal there is nothing you can do about the friction. If I fix a buzzer for myself to use in a night tournament it will usually last the length of the tourny....about four hours. It will scream like a panther but it wont last for ever. A buzzer starts to wear when you start to use it, and the more you use it the better it squeaks and the faster it wears through.That's why they hang them out the window for the air to speed the process up. It is one of those #$% if I do and @#$ if I dont type deals. Good Fishin' BTB

HOW MANY DO YOU NEED AND WHAT STIFFNESS? I HAVE 2000-3000 OF THEM OUT IN THE SHOP IF I CAN FIND THEM. I HAD A CUSTOMER THAT WANTED THAT KINDA WEEDGAURD AND FOUND A DEAL AND BOUGHT A BUNCH OF THEM. HE LIKED THE JIGS BUT I DONT SEE HIM USING 3000 OF THEM...LOL...SO I MAYBE ABLE TO HELP YEA OUT....BTB

I make alot of other lures from lead and wire but have never tried the wood game yet. What paint do you recommend and where do you find it? I have used powder and vinyl in the past. I still use vinyl and have used it in a air brush but it seems to be a little stringy for painting wood to me. If I am doing something wrong I would appreciate the help. If I need to change paints, I would like to know what to go to. But if at all possible, and I can make the time, this winter,in between all the buzzbaits,jigs,etc. etc. , I am going to give wood a try. I just wanted a few pointers in the right direction. Thanks in advance....BTB

When you say a large quantity, would you be interested in 45-50 lbs. at a time? I think it is 130 million flakes per pound, I don't know if that 's what you call fine but it is MIGHTY small...drop me a line or a post if interested........Good Fishin' and Pourin'

I found a original spinrite in the original package a few years ago and have been hooked ever since then. I bought the mold you are referring to and have been twisting wire ever since...They are compact and will cast a mile and catch fish too..WHAT ELSE CAN A MAN ASK FOR in a hand made lure.....Good Fishin'