blackjack

I made a bunch of those bait last winter (about 3 Dozen) I only have 4 left. Gave the rest away to guys to fish. I'm gonna get back into the production mode in a couple of weeks. Actually looking foward to the winter so I can get some well deserved rest. The bait was copied from a bait a friend won on an ebay auction two years ago. I tried to get it as exact as the original as possible. I got it pretty close, so close that he has retired the original and just uses the ones I did last winter. He caught alot of fish this spring when the fish were in 6 to 8' of water. Thanks for the compliment!!

Riverman, The Crystal Sheen goes on in a similar fashion as the F/C or any other 2 part epoxy. I fished a bunch of baits this past weekend and was impressed to say the least. I only had a problem with 2 of the wooden baits that only had 24 hours cure time. The other baits that had fully cured an entire week were not affected by cranking other than some minor scratches. None of the baits chipped or peeled. Th two baits that were not fully cured I could dent the finish with my fingernail. The full cure baits (5 to 7 days) were extremly hard. I did coat the baits twice, and the finish is extremely glossy and has a nice high build to it. For now I'm gonna use thinned devcon to seal my wooden baits and the C/S for my top coat. Plastic baits I'll use the C/S also until something better comes along

I have used about 13 or 14 different types and manufacturers clearcoats. I have been pretty happy about the F/C. Two weeks ago I called ETI(Environtex Parent Company) I spoke with a tech about my concerns with F/C(too soft) Devcon (too hard) She recommended Crystal Sheen. I recieved the Crystal Sheen last week and have clear coated about 15 lures. I must say that I am thoroughly impressed with it. It is definetly harder than F/C yet it is not as brittle as Devcon. The crystal sheen cures to a super glossy high build finish. So far it appears that it is the best of both worlds. This weekend I will give the baits(7 plastic baits and 8 wooden baits) the torture test of cranking the rip-rap and post the results!!

I had the same problem as Skeeter stated with the finish bubbling up when the baits were sealed with sanding sealer. I have been sealing my balsa baits with Devcon 30 minute thinned out with MEK. Once dried the bait is primed and painted. I have been using F/C as my top coat for about a year now and have not had one problem with it. I was Cranking rock piles on the Potomac two weeks ago for 3 days Caught a ton of fish Had 12lbs on frist day and 14 lbs the second day. Between the barnacles and rocks I had 2 factory finish baits(1) bomber 6a and (1) Norman Middle N completly chipped up. The baits that I used F/C on had surface scratches and some dingers but were still in fishable condition. I used a group of 8 baits equally for the whole trip. I will say the maybe because the F/C is alot more flexible than the ohter finishes that it held up to the Potomac rock test

Boy I don't know how you guys find time to work on all of your projects!! I'm jealous. Between my regular job, fishing, time with the family, honey do lists, painting baits, and creating new ideas I need at least a 35 hour day. I guess I have to budget my time alittle better. Kinda caught the spinnerbait bug lately and it has been consuming alot of my time. I want to get back to carving hardbaits as I have alot of new ideas that came from last winters creations. Should be alot of fun this winter

I made the switch a couple of years ago from a Badger Anthem and have not missed it once. I like the Aztec because it is light, easy to use, and the brush cleans up very easily. I also like the different nozzles that are available for different spray patterns

Ok,Ok I'll admit it I am really starting to dig this spinnerbait making thing!! Last night I painted 25 spinners in the amount of time it takes me to paint 5 plugs. Now the big question I painted some baits a green flip-flop color on the back(Green to Blue to Silver) I'm looking for a green interference colored skirt to match the back color on the bait. I personally love the Blue Interference and purple interference color skirts but can't find any green interference skirts at any of the major suppliers. Anyone got a heads up on this color?? Thanks in Advance

I have been using Blade Dip in red http://www.ispikeit.com/shop/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=2&subcat=14&cat=Blade+Dip with excellent results. What I like about it is that you can use your favorite brand of hook !!

I use a thinned devcon 30 min epoxy on all of my balsa baits. I thin the epoxy with MEK about 4 parts epoxy to 1 part MEK. Works like a charm!!

It appears to me that you are trying to make a bagley body style bait or big o type bait. If this is the case, you are not to far off. When I design or copy a bait I find the vertical center line (on the widest part of the front of the body)and the horizontal center line. Once I have found these two locations it is alot easier designing a diagram or pattern to follow. On your diagram I copied the body style and found both points and added the wire harness location and the belly weight location. I guarentee that if you follow this diagram to a tee and make all parts of the bait true and square you will have a bait that will run straight and true(It might even hunt if you use the proper materials) Let me know if you need any additional info!!!

Coley, So far the hidden heads are great. They run true and you can really burn them without the bait cavitating towards the surface. I suspect they will be killer on the Potomac weed Beds

Skeeter is right they do look like crap!! But in certain parts of the Country(Tenn. Kentucky, And certain parts of Alabama) the guys love them. I use when requested. I found a semitransparent version that is not as gaudy that I work with. I purchased it from a company in Penn. It is known in the industry as GRADE G-10 FR4 -- GLASS EPOXY. If you go to Google.com and type in the industry name about 20 or 30 manufacturers will show up. Most have an 800 # give em a call an order a sheet. It comes in various thicknesses .040 is a good starting point.It is also alot tougher to cut. I will say this the circuit board does give the bait a different action and it does get a diving bait down deeper quicker. But as far as asthetics Lexan is the way to go!!!

Tried my hand at spinnerbaits. First time I have played around with these things. I posted picture in the gallery. The Body is a hidden weight Stamina Components(1/4 oz. body size 1/2oz weight) Figured you could burn this type alot easier than the others. All of the parts came from my recycled bin for broken and beat up spinners. Let me know what you pros think!!

First I would like to commend you on your craftmanship. The baits look great. Secondly Gill plates are a personal preference to me I usually paint a bunch of the same pattern and paint some with gill plates and some without. I let the fish dictate what they want. On some days the fish will eat the non gill plate bait and not touch the one with the gill plate and the next day do the complete opposite. If I am panting baits for customers I always ask if they want them(Most Do) I don't know if that solves your dilemma but that is what I do!

Thanks for the kind words and encouragement!!! Hey skeet can you make a Big O copy out of balsa??? I'm ok on the flat sides but haven't mastered the round baits yet. I'm looking for the middle size big O

Just got off of the water, fished the latest hand carved baits I made last week. Didn't catch any fish on them but then again didn't catch any fish on any hard baits at all. The One is a foiled bait and the other is a totally new pattern. I call it the broken back horton!! Let me know what you guys think. The break in the pattern really shows up nicely in stained water

Spookman, If you are talking about musky baits copper or brass might be alittle light and I agree that piano wire might be the ticket. But if you are making baits for bass copper or brass is plenty tough. I have been making thru wire plugs utilizing brass wire for about 4 years now. I nor any of my customers has ever had any problems with largemouth bass up to 9 lbs and smallmouth bass up to 6 pounds. I prefer the brass or copper wire because with this type of wire in a thru wire bait I have a higher percentage of baits that hunt. It is also alot easier to use. All of my wire harness baits are soldered together so that there is no way the wire will pull out. Blackjack

Hughesy, Excellent paint schemes as are all of the baits you paint. Kinda have a Japanese style to them!!! Keep up the great work!!!!

http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/wire/bwi.htm

Jumped over form Taklemaking.com. Got tired of all of the soft plastic questions and answers(Don't Get me wrong, I love to throw soft plastics but my real love is for crankbaits). Finally a board totally dedicated to just hard bait fanatics!!