blackjack

Ok couple of questions concerning the above mentioned machines, I am looking to make a big jump and increase my production output as I cannot keep up with orders. How much of an increase in production can be expected for shaping bodies and cutting lips, etc. I am currently doing about 100 to 125 lures a month and need to increase to say 300 lures per month, and finally recommendations on a machine

Not preferential here, would love to play with designing and manufacturing an injection molded plastic lure,use wood everyday, foam played with it a bit but never really got into producing lures that way. I think that a well designed plastic lure can achieve the same amount of sucess as any wood bait, but for the most part the average builder should explore all types of materials so that they can find something that fits into their groove!

http://alsacorp.com/products/eclipse/eclipse_prodinfo.htm

Color shifting paints are faceted pigment particles that have 2 different colors on adjacent facets. In order to achieve the color change on a flat object the object needs to be in motion. On a rounded object the flop is easier to view because your are actually seeing both sides of the colored facets of the particle. On a flat bait with rounded edges the flop is easily viewed without motion on the rounded sections. Also as stated it is much more noticeable if you build up the paint by spraying several coats. It is necessary to agitate the paint while it is in the airbrush bottle or cup as this type of application is heavily dependant upon the amount of pigment particles that are layed out in each coat!

For you guys using DN's clear, I have transferred the clear from the can to these bottles(salad dressing bottles) for storage http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/fin48a.html and so far so good, The bottles come with screw on tops and you can also order the shrink wrap bands that will seal the bottle so that it is airtight

the reason for the high shipping charge is due to the packaging used by them, your items will not arrive cracked or dented, been using them for 6 years and never an issue!!

Couldn't you just rotate your hook hangers/bellyweights to accomplish the same thing??

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Get a syringe and shoot some gorilla glue into the crack, wrap a thick rubber band around the body and then go to town after the glue has cured. The bond between the wood and glue will be as strong or stronger than the existing wood!!

Had them custom made from FTP

Cat Eye Pacman Eye Looking Down Eye

you could drill 2 small holes very close together and install a split ring, there is a Daiwa crankbait with a titanium lip that uses this method, might give the bait a crazy action!!

Is that so?? I don't think I have ever seen a balsa lure that was not belly,tail or throat weighted perform efficiently.

Blades hit the nail on the head with that post. my best advice is come up with a in depth honest business plan and set flexible attainable goals. Alot of people think that they are gonna be able to retire from their regular job and make a ton of cash. That is not gonna happen for some time, you have to keep your nose to the grindstone and not get discouraged. fisherman are always looking for that magic bait that is gonna win them their next tournament that is where you have to create a niche with your product. I will say this that it is certainly harder to get started today than it was 10 years ago,the current market is saturated with custom lure painters and makers. Every tom, dick and harry with an airbrush and woodworking skills is doing it, very very few will be around in 5 years

I don't think D.P. was ragging you for the question, I think what he meant was that there is a wealth of information that is available at your fingertips, just type the right question in any search engine, or the search engine on this site and you will find the information that you are looking for. I don't profess to be an expert but when I started with an airbrush I had no art training, 90 percent of the knowledge that I have gained over the years has come from copying what is out there in production lures, Trying to figure out what colors were used to produce your favorite production pattern is all the fun. Then you can add your own creative flair. There certainly is a learning curve when it comes to matching paints but in the long run it will make you a better painter. There is no shortcut. As long as you have a color monitor and are not color blind, the sky is the limit(and it is also blue at times!!)

do a search on the d-bait, plenty of info there

You can do a similar mod as B&B on the 30, get a 21/64" drill bit and some 0 buckshot drill a hole in the bottom of the lip push the shot in hit it with epoxy and your bait will get deeper

Guys I experimented with sanding sealer back in the day, If you are going to clear with epoxy I had numerous problems with baits being left out in the sun. When left out in direct sunlight a bubble or air pocket would form between the sanding sealer top layer and the clearcoat. When I stopped using the sanding sealer the problem ceased

Hologram silver,gold,red,blue

Just recieved my prototype lures eyes(Pacman and looking down) from my supplier Let me know what you guys think, I also have the reptile/cat eye done by the same company

Kid. The lead piece that was in the original one knock spots was in the nose section, If yo place lead in the body of the rattletrap you will essential change the weighting of the lure and the action. Your best bet is to get some original one knockers and have them repainted to you exact specifications. I love those baits and have won quite a few Tournaments in the spring when everyone else is throwing a rattle trap or Japanese Trap

Hoodaddy, I skim coat whether I am going to foil or not , when I say skim coat what I do is dip a clean rag into a thinned epoxy mix and rub it on the blank so that it just barely soaks into the wood, then I let it cure overnight, I then foil the bait, texture it ,then epoxy the whole entire bait(seal), I have never had an issue texturing the foil, the skim coat gives the "sealer coat" something to stick to! I used to use a sanding sealer but found that there was a delaminating problem when using different products (epoxy over sanding sealer)

skim coat of epoxy, foil, then seal with epoxy , paint then clear as usual

pretty darn cool stuff, thanks for the links!!