jigmaster

I happen to have one of dayooper's beds.........i love the darn thing......I use it every day. simple design, and durable as hell.... worth every penny I am west of GR, too..........small world, eh? JM www.daimonlures.com

www.staminainc.com I think they have the heavier sizes. If not, there are plenty of guys out here who would be willing to pour you that head....if not mistaken, I think you are describing the ultra-minnow....the mold is commercially available from Do-it..and perhaps you can convince someone to buy the mold, and pour for you otherwise, try www.castind.com they likely can do it for you, too regards JM www.daimonlures.com

the lower the number, the higher the grade 300 grade stainless is the good stuff...the lower grades have higher carbon content, which will lead to corrosion over time stick to 300 grade, and you will be golden JM www.daimonlures.com

Anyone have any experience with making your own silicone molds..I was looking at the products on www.miniaturemolds.com they look to have some simple mold making compounds, that seem like they would work well for limited production runs, and simple to make for an idiot like me any thoughts out there on this? Regards JM www.daimonlures.com

not sure if you are SOL or not........LOL I normally dont pour jigs that big with fiber.......so I cannot speak from experience.......I do pour some in the 1 oz range without fiber.....and that is alot of hot lead........that is all I am saying. fair enough.......I hope that you can figure it out.......when you do, post your results here, so that we can all learn. regards JM

like that is your issue 1.5 oz of molten lead is gonna melt that weedguard in a hurry.... not to be nosy, but why such a lite guard in such a big head? if you are gonna get serious about pouring lead........get yourself a good pot........for jigs that big........invest in a Lee 4-20 just show your wife on paper how quickly you will get "return on investment"..........she will relent regards JM www.daimonlures.com

I bought a 5 ft length at a local fluid power store....place that sells hydraulic/pneumatic parts and accessories paind about .89 a foot, and cut it to length with a pair of side cutters. 1/32 wall, 1/4 OD jm www.daimonlures.com

I bought a 5 ft length at a local fluid power store....place that sells hydraulic/pneumatic parts and accessories paind about .89 a foot, and cut it to length with a pair of side cutters. 1/32 wall, 1/4 OD jm www.daimonlures.com

scroll on down the page.........there are some good threads on the subject...should tell you everything you need to know

dont recall exactly, but check out barlows www.barlowstackle.com i think mustad makes one.......it is not the 32798.....that wont fit....it is 71...something or other. regards jm www.daimonlures.com

bottom. JM www.daimonlures.com

mustad 32746 ultra-point bln in various sizes mustad 32756 bronze eagle claw 570 or 570R if you want red eagle claw 574 long shank gammie's standard jig hook any hook with 90 deg eye should work ok

Hatfield Enterprises Dennis Hatfield 616-677-5215 I think he has that color regards JM www.daimonlures.com

hey, elkins thanks for the help, and the info regards JM www.daimonlures.com

Hey, all anybody out there have any experience with making tail spinners........am wondering what the wire diameter is on the wire insert for the do-it mold, (TS-28)and also the length of the shaft on the wire insert any ideas? thanks JM www.daimonlures.com

depends on what you are trying to do with the jig.....if you are flipping that jig with a 32798, it cannot handle that kind of application.......i know a guy who was flipping docks with a 1/4 jig I made with the 32798.....he was flipping with braid, and straightened the hook......that should not surprise anyone...if you are using 6-10# mono on a spinning rod, probably gonna be ok with the 32798 32798 4/0 has a thicker wire than the 3/0, also gammie 5941 is a flipping hook.....if you are looking for a heavy wire flateye, that will work for you.....mustad makes thier own thick wire flateye.......32796 let us know how you do regards jm www.daimonlures.com

hagens www.hagensfish.com JM www.daimonlures.com

Hi We have sold product to quite a few members here.....we make several styles of s-bait heads, as well as a wide variety of molds for jigheads, etc....as well as some custom heads. Regards JM www.daimonlures.com

Thanks for the clarification on the paint quantity! I stand corrected! that is good info, too.........! The fluid bed is a good idea....these guys make a quality product, at a reasonable price. I have purchased paint from them, too.......for colors I do not use alot of......they have a great selection of different colors! Regards JM www.daimonlures.com

Unagi We purchase a fair amount of the 5141, and tie stainless wireguards on them, (think falcon "K" Whacky) we call it our talon series.....anyway, my point is...it is not the same hook. Quite similar, but not the same. That being said, I experimented with the 5141, to see if I could bend it to fit my flateye mold......met with limited success, but I think it could be done with more patience. Not the same hook, though. regards JM www.daimonlures.com

Mine was a homemade one.....do a search on ebay for fluid beds.....there is a guy on there that makes them....turns out, he lives about 1/2 mile from me..........small world, eh? anyway........i picked it up pretty cheap.......50 bucks, I think. He uses an aquarium aerator pump for the airflow...airflow is adjustable, etc................it is a slick little deal, and worth the money. only drawback is you have to buy the paint in 1 or 2 lb jars.......the little 2 oz jars arent enough to fill the cup on the bed. I usually buy 2 lb jars from CSI.....you will need a tax ID to buy direct. if you do not have an ID, I know a guy who will sell to you by the pound. let me know on that. i just finished an order for 200 flateye arky heads.....100 each brown and black (1/2 oz heads) that fluid bed comes in handy I have three different cups for it.......each filled with a different color.......simply change the cup, not the paint color....much quicker........ hope all of this helps!

gator glad you got some good results with the teflon. Longer does not always mean better cure. You have to hit a certain temperature range for the chemical reaction to take place in the paint to harden. that is the main drawback to molding your guards, rather than gluing in after the fact. Unfortunately for me, I process literally thousands of heads in this way.......I do not have time to glue. That being said......cure your black at the highest temp you can.....approx 225-240 for approx 20 minutes.......this will do the trick for black. Each color has a different threshold.....generally the darker the color, the longer the cure time.....if you are seeing weedguard deformity.....move the heads away from direct heat source (coils in oven) and PREHEAT the oven. Also, wrap in foil prior to covering with teflon.....I explained that in a post last week, I think. It works. CSI has a complete listing of all their recommended cure times/temps......look on their site for it...otherwise I can get you the info. The other thing you need to consider is the thickness of the paint......the thicker the coat, the longer/hotter it takes to cure. I purchased a fluid bed awhile back......thing works like a champ....lays down a nice even THIN layer of paint......which cures more evenly. Hope this helps

how does that saying go......good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement........lol i have screwed up my fair share of jigs playing around with stuff, trying to find solutions.......trial and error......it is always cheaper to learn from the mistakes of others......I am glad that I am able to contribute. as for that teflon.......if you are still seeing deforming issues with the weedguards, which you may, depending on strand diameter and heat in the oven, try wrapping the weedguard bundles in HD tinfoil from the kitchen.......shiny side out...., and then sliding the teflon over top of the foil. The foil will act as an additional heat barrier. It will also allow for the guard not to lose its shape........with heat, it will tend to take the shape and diameter of the teflon tube.......(that is why the small diameter of teflon)...foil will eliminate that...it is more time consuming to use the foil method......but it works. be careful not to let any foil touch the paint, as it will stick to it, and you cannot remove it once that happens. regards jm www.daimonlures.com

Mr B.........sent you a PM email me direct bsimmons@macatawa.com Regards JM www.daimonlures.com

www.captainhookswarehouse.com email lynne and ask them.......if they cant get it.......it cant be gotten regards jm www.daimonlures.com