Coley

Just to let you know that the split rings on Janns lips are not stainless steel. Coley

Get you some Devcon 2 Ton, 30 min. epoxy, and your problem will go away. You can get it a Walmart in a 2 tube syringe for $1.97 Coley

That's about all I can say, here I am still experimenting with foam and you move on to something else. How do you like the Urethane for a mold material?? Coley

I would use the Universal or the Mann 1700, I think any of them will be ok as lomg as they don't contain silicone. I don't think you want to put vaseline and talc in your rubber mold. Coley

I had the same problem. I tried 3 differen't brands. All lacquer thinners are not the same. Tally found some at Auto Zone that does work, its their own brand. I believe its in a green can, and its called Safety Kleen Virgin Lacquer Thinner. coley

Let me suggest you do a search on this site for information you are wanting to know. Also check out the hardbait tutorial's. There is tons of good info here, do your search for topics like, balsa baits, painting, lips and clearcoating. Coley

The water temp where I Sauger fish is 50 deg. How does this apply to a river run reservior? It only has feeder creeks in this area. Coley

1857 Coley

It sounds to me like you have a weight problem. How does the bait sit in the water? It should have about 1/4 of the back sitting out of the water and the front of the lip should be under water. You didn't mention where the weight is located. It needs to be in the lowest part of the belly or just slightly forward of this location. The ideal place is over the belly hook. Try wraping some extra weight around the front hook until it sits right in the water. Use solder or clamp split shot on the hook shank. You can also use a rubber band to hold the weight on. I hope this helps you. Coley

It affects it just like weighting wood baits. It only takes about 1/4 to 1/3 as much weight. Coley

Good job Terry, thanks to you, new and old TU members cam learn from this one. Coley

Well, I'll try to help you out. Not, having seen your bait in the water. I can only imagine it is not weighted properly. 1/4 to 1/3 of the top or back of the bait should be out of the water when the bait is sitting in the water. The front of the lip must be under water, or it will not dig in and start swimming. It sounds like the bait is tail heavy and is sitting with the front out of the water. Its hard to tell without knowing how it is sitting. I am assuming that when you say it will swim with a 30 deg. angle on the lip. the lip is under water at this point. Hope this helps you out some. Coley

Well, to completely solve the problem, get a laser printer. And you won't have to worr about it anymore. Coley

Heres a couple of sites, just don't think they have the bulk you are looking for. http://www.hookandhackle.ca/item2342.htm http://www.northernangler.mb.ca/onlinecatalog/materials/bodywrap Send me your address and I will send you some Lumaflex. I don't have the other. Coley

Here is a material called SiliSkin, looks pretty good. Check it out. http://members.ij.net/danscustomflys/FlyTyingSiliSkin.html Coley

I think the nail polish dries to fast if applied with a brush. And the cost vs other paint is prohibitive. Coley

I have done it both ways and can't tell any difference. More inportant is the dryer speed. 5-6 rpm seems like a good speed. Coley

First of all, if you clearcoat in a warm area like 72 degrees, you don't need any additional heat. If I did need heat, I wouldn't use any thing with a fan, this is apt to blow dust on your finish. I would use something like a small hot plate. even a 60 watt light bulb will keep your area warm if it is contained. Coley

I wouldn't exactly call repainting Japanese crankbaits "Hand Made in America" Coley

The tape is ok, but its very hard to get the edges to stay down on even the slightest of round edges. Its the material, it won't sand at all. As far as painting, clearcoat the bait with Devcon and sand down until you have a dull finish. Then paint the belly and the back, blending into the sides. Clearcoat again and you will have a nice looking bait.

I have glued every photo on my photo finish lures with titebond dark wood glue. I have had no problems. Coley

You can get it here. Depending on the size of the bait, how many you can make. I don't really know. I use 1/2 ts of A & B to make one bait. http://www.shopmaninc.com/ Coley

First, I wash the mold release off with Lacquer thinner or Acetone. I then wet sand the bait with a foam pad and wash with dishwashing detergent. I then use the melted plastic cups to seal, and prime with Kilz. Because the Kilz will bond to the plastic I donot sand the plastic coating after the second or third coat. If a puddle of Kilz is sprayed in a cup and left to sit, it will eat the bottom out of the cup. I think in the case of foam we are sealing the foam to keep something from getting out, rather than water getting in. Now what this something is I don't know. It could be gas or air. Or just to seal very small pin holes in the foam itself. I have used Kilz alone against the foam with no problems. Coley

If you used an inkjet printer, the ink is water souble. Try spraying the decal with three thin coats of Krylon clear. After it is completely dry then remove it in water the normal way and apply. Coley

This a question that is extremely difficult to answer. Learning how to paint, comes from practice and more practice. Look up using an airbrush on the web. Several sites have practice patterns and tips. Your airbrush should have tips and instructions on practice steps. Do a search on this site for paint, you will get a lot of information and discussioin about painting. Basic steps are, sealing, priming, color coats and top coat. You can also get a video on using an airbrush. Coley