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Coley

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Everything posted by Coley

  1. I started making baits when I was about 12. My dad and I used to do a lot of trout fishing when we lived in WV and I learned how to tie flies. When I was 16 we moved to TN. I finished high school here and started to work for Monsanto Chenical Co. I got into Sauger fishing and started pouring and tying my own Sauger jigs at the age of 20. That was when Herter's was in business and they had a catalog about an 1 1/4" thick. I tied jigs using Polar bear hair. It was the best material I ever used. We used a lot of graphite at the plant and I made molds for jigs and sonars out of it. I still have some of those today. We had a lot of fresh water tailing ponds around the plant that were stocked with bass. Thats when I got into bass fishing. So, I started pouring plastic worms at that time, only for myself. I fished mostly for Sauger all the way up until 1987 and Sauger fishing got so bad, I quit fishing all together. And started building radio controlled model airplanes, again. In 1994 I started Sauger and bass fishing again. I also got into tournament fishing. I started pouring Sauger jigs and plastic worms again. I poured what now is known as the zipper worm. And I started selling them, only to pay for my equipment. They sold great and it soon became a job instead of a hobby. I poured my own craws and chunks for jig trailers. I also poured my own bass jigs. I quit bass fishing in 2000 and just stayed with Sauger. One night while surfing the web I came across Tacklemaking, I read the post and was fascinated by what I read. I visited the site 12 to 15 times a day, looking for new stuff. I really got interested. The first thing I did was build a dryer. Next, I ordered a lathe and started making poppers and bombers. I asked so many questions on the site, I became ashamed. Then I started making flatsided crankbaits from TN cedar and pine 2x4's. Then I started making cedar/balsa crankbaits. I also make spinner and buzzbaits. I have had many failures, baits that skimmed across the top of the water. Baits that had good action but, would sink when they were supposed to float. Baits that would spin the whole time on retrive. Thanks to the people on this slte I hung in there. It would of been very easy to give it up. And believe me, I know how to cuss and throw things. I have done plenty. A big thanks goes to Jerry ( Red-g8r ) for opening this site. And another big thanks to the guys that post and answer questions they are the ones that keep it interesting. Without the posters there would be no site. Coley
  2. Sure does make a guy feel good. You can butter me up all you want, still, no free baits. lol The both of you have forgotten more than I'll ever know about making baits. Coley
  3. Coley

    finish coats

    Hey Joe, I just started making baits in March. I started with Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy. Its very user friendly. I also use it to glue my lips in, I do this at the same time I apply the finish coat. You have to turn the bait for about 20-30 minutes slowly, either by hand or on a dryer with about 5-7 rpm. If you don't turn the bait, the epoxy will sag. Turning allows the epoxy to level out on the bait. To install the lip you want a very snug fit in the lip slot. Sand the sheen off the part of the lip that fits in the slot. Drill a 1/32" hole in each corner of the lip. Apply epoxy to the slot and the lip, be sure to get epoxy all the way through the holes in the lip. Push lip into slot and line up. Besure to get lip straight. Also go here and read this article. http://www.angelfire.com/tn/treetotreasure/lips.html And do a search on this site for lips, there is a ton of information here. I hope I have been of some help to you. I think you will like Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy. Available at Wal/Mart for about 2 bucks a double tube syringe. Coley
  4. I would like to know why so many crankbait eyes are painted on the top front of the head?? When all the baitfish I see have eyes on the side of the head. Coley
  5. Thanks for the nice comments about the other blank. I think the pic says it all. What I really like about it, is that there is no epoxy at the bottom of the lure and no drilled holes to finish. I used two 1/8 oz. egg sinkers for weight. This is a little harder to do than the other method, it may be the best way. What do you think?? And by the way Hughesy, the mind is the first thing to go, I started making baits in late March of this year. Coley
  6. OK Merc, Do you have the final number?? Do you want us to send 16 or 17 bags. Coley
  7. Coley

    Lead Question

    You can try smoking your mold with a candle. I pour 1/8 oz. stand up spinner jigs, that have a hook and crane swivel in them with no problems. I have never used a hot pot, I always use a heavy alum pan (alum. melts at 1220 F) almost twice that of lead. I use my fish cooker burner for heat. I make 3 pours in the mold to get it hot, let it sit a minute with the lead in so it can asorb the heat. I get my lead really hot, it takes on a purple haze. You might use a dremel to make pouring hole larger, go slow. Coley
  8. Coley

    Cotter pins

    I found some 18-8 SS cotter pins on the net for a little less than 3 cents each. I plan to go this route. The weight on either side of the front hook seems to let the lure sit perfectly level in the water. By increasing or decreasing the thickness of the balsa sides you can change the shape of the lure. Presently I am using 3/8" and 1/4". The 1/4" makes a beautiful semi flat bait. Also instead of a hole at the top, you can install a slot and a spinnerbait rattle. Coley
  9. Coley

    Lead Question

    First of all what do you call a small piece?? What are you heating your lead in?? If I know the answer to these questions, I can probably help you. Coley
  10. Coley

    Cotter pins

    I tried them and they work great. I used them on my balsa/cedar crankbait. Coley
  11. Use the search feature on this site and you will find him. And by the way the other site is up and running again. Coley
  12. Coley

    Forrest Who?

    Like I said Chirmy, have fun!! And it looks like you did> Coley
  13. Coley

    Sanding

    I sand my balsa cranks by hand. And by the third bait the index finger and thumb on my left hand are bleeding, from the course paper this is the hand I hold the bait in. I know this sounds stupid, is this only happening to me? There has to be a better way, or something to put over my fingers. And still be able to hold the bait. Coley
  14. Coley

    Cotter pins

    Has anyone ever tried using small cotter pins as wire through the weight as hook hangers?? If so, how does it work out?? Coley
  15. As far as I can tell, this stuff works great, so far. Coley
  16. I'll give it a try. Just let me know what to do. I have never tried anything like this before. Coley
  17. Coley

    Tacklemaking

    How long has Tacklemaking been back on line?? Coley
  18. Does anyone use Minwax Polycrylic Protective Finish to seal the wood on their crankbaits? It is an ultra-frast drying product that is water based. You can add a tint to it with your acrylic water base paints. It kinda looks like milk thinned with water. Extremely low odor. By adding white to it, you can prime and seal at the same time. Coley
  19. Congratulations to SR and to you also Chirmy, the main thing was to have a great time and learn much. Coley
  20. Coley

    US Open Draw

    Pulling hard for you Chirmy. Good luck!!!!!!!!!! Coley
  21. Really nice looking baits. I like the painted fin. What are they made from??? Coley
  22. Very nice looking baits!!!!!!! Coley
  23. Looks good to me to Whittler. Keep playing with the airbrush, try paints at different air pressures and different amounts of thinner. It does get easier. A good air regulator is a must for airbrushing. Coley
  24. Well, under a large magnifying glass it looks like each one of those tiny dots has 45 to 50 pieces of fine glitter on them. But, to the naked eye it looks like one solid spot. Coley
  25. I was trying to find out if I could put glitter scales on a lure using scale material, spray glue and extra fine glitter. What a surprise I had. I took a wooden dowel and put several coats of flat black Krylon. I let that dry for overnight. I wrapped the scale netting around the dowel and sprayed it with Duro all-purpose spray adhesive. I Immediateily removed the netting and applied the glitter. What a mess!!! I banged the dowel against the work bench to try and remove excess glitter, but to no avail. As I started to throw the dowel away I wiped it with a dry rag and bingo I had the most beautiful chrome scales you could imagine. What must of taken place was a reaction between the glitter material and the chemicals in the glue. And all was very dry. I attached a pic of the dowel and the pic doesn't do justice to the chrome looking scales. They reflect so much light in the sun you will have to look away, believe me. Coley
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