Jump to content

Coley

TU Member
  • Posts

    1,057
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by Coley

  1. Check out some of the taxidermy supply houses on the net. Coley
  2. Way to go Tim!!!!!!!!!!! Coley
  3. Nathan, I hope your orders skyrocket. Good Luck!!!!!! Coley
  4. Nice looking job. How do you like the hidden weight spinnerbait head?? Coley
  5. Coley

    Have you seen

    Tried several times, no go. Coley
  6. I didnot write this, Skeeter did. Hope he doesn't mind me using it. Sounds like your lip has too much cleareance to start with. Coley Skeeter says, Personally I try to get as tight of a fit that I can. The reason is because as long as the slot is square, then as the epoxy cures it can cause the lip to twist and not be at 90 degrees with the top and bottom of the lure. If you are having a hard time with the blade twisting in the saw while you cut the slot then try tightening the tension of the blade alittle. The rest is practice. Just take your time. I draw the outline of the bait and then draw the slot on the center line. I draw the slot 1/2 inch back from the nose of the bait. For angled lips I use the 1/2 inch mark to draw the bottom line for the slot. In other words let's say you want to draw a slot for a lip that is at 30 deg. Draw your center line through the bait from nose to tail. Make a mark on that line 1/2 inch back from the nose. From that mark draw a 30 deg. line to the bottom edge of the bait where the lip will exit. If you are using 1/16 inch thick material for your lip then measure 1/16 from that bottom line and draw another 30 deg. line. This is the top of the slot. Then make sure that the slot is 1/2 inch deep,even if you draw the end of the slot above the center line. Get a fine toothblade for your band or scroll saw. I use a scroll saw and use blades that are meant to cut PVC pipe. Now, very first thing..... cut the slot for the lip. Then cut out the rest of the bait. Once you have rounded the lure and sanded it to shape, the lip slot will be about 3/8 inch deep. You need this much glue surface for the lip and slot. If you are using a hard wood then you will need to make a channel in the middle of the lower lip of the slot for the wire used in your line tie to slide into. With balsa you can just push the lip and wire in and it will just cut its own slot into the wood. Drill a 1/32 in hole into each corner of the lip and get your epoxy down inside those holes, this is a glue point and will secure the lip like a post once it cures. Hope this helps you. Skeeter Skeeter
  7. Coley

    poppers

    Check out the tutorials in this forum, There is one on half-moon poppers. I used it myself when I started and still do. Coley
  8. Thank you Jerry for sharing with us. Coley
  9. To make a Dremel 1 1/4" cutting discs last 5 times longer put super glue on both sides and let cure. Really hardens them up. Coley
  10. Coley

    Pictures

    Where do you get your bodies to paint?? I like that style. Coley
  11. Ask your dentist for his old bits. If he doesn't have any, ask him to save them for you. They come in handy. Coley
  12. I like to make the wooden bomber type of crankbait. These baits have a .020" brass lip. The brass is what is called half hard. When I cut these lips I sandwich the brass between two pieces of 1/16" plywood. I use a photo spray glue to hold it all together. This plywood cost about $7.50 for a 12" X 24" sheet. This runs into several dollars. You can cut about 48 lips per sheet. I don't sell these lures. Does anybody have ideas on how to cut this brass without the plywood?? I use a bandsaw with a 1/8" blade. Thanks, Coley
  13. Great job Nathan!!! How big are they??? Are the heads lead or wood?? Really look good. Coley
  14. Coley

    Pictures

    Man, those things look great. Bottom right should be fantastic on smallmouth. Coley
  15. Acrylic paint if water based is thinned with water. A decent airbrush is a Passche VL double action. A double action airbrush- when you push down you get air, when you pull back you get paint. It is adjustable to the amount of paint you get. I use Kilz primer and Krylon. Both dry quickly. You need to sand the old baits with at least a 320 paper. Use Devcon 2 ton epoxy for a finish coat--it rocks. Coley
  16. Coley

    Epoxy Smell

    How long had the epoxy been on the jigs?? I use epoxy ( devcon 2 T ) on my Sauger jigs. I paint them in the summer and use them in the winter. No scent added to jig. Coley
  17. Moore's Lures has some, rather pricy though. What type and how many you looking for? You can make your own. There are several tutorials on the subject and the guys on this board will answer all your questions. Coley
  18. Man-o-Man those baits look fantastic !!! I like the new pattern. Should catch fish. The foil is a great job!! Coley
  19. Coley

    Picture

    Thanks guys!!!
  20. Coley

    New Buzzbait

    Looks good to me. Is that a Dakota blade behind the buzz blade in the first picture?? Coley
  21. Coley

    New pictures

    Latest edition to my effort. How do you like the purple swirl on blade. Coley
  22. Coley

    Picture

    Uploaded a new picture. Repainted a Manns 1-minus. Its on page 5 of hard baits. Very proud of it. Damn proud, the sweat was pouring. Check it out Skeeter & Hughsey. Only used 4# of air press on the black. Coley
  23. Coley

    New Lineup

    Hey Sebass, Great job. I will be glad when I learn how to paint like that. Coley
  24. Thanks for all the help Skeeter. Without you guys it would not have looked very good.
  25. Just posted two more spinnerbait pics. My second and my UT, thats Tennessee. Forgot description on the green one. I am working on a purple swirl blade, will upload when finished. Coley Do they have enough strands of Lumaflex?? There is 60.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top