Reaper lures

If anyone here gave you 50$ worth of free tackle I'll eat my underware. Your just here looking to get some free lures. Most people here have "pro staffer's" who give them advise on thier baits. I kinda doubt your anyone important because serious fisherman know how to gain a sponsor and let's just say your not very good at approaching sponsor's.

Mercury, Your check is on it's way along with the baits.

Hello, I alway's hear people saying about using water putty for making jig molds to pour lead. Why couldn't you use plaster? Water putty and plaster are very close to the same. If I baked the plaster in the oven to get all the water out would this work?

hI ALL I am considering making jigs and s baits where can I get HYDROSILK skirts and what is your opinon on these skirts? Does anyone have any thing better in mind?

For the gel coat find a glitter you want and apply it in you top coat. It works becouse I do it. As for how to paint the lure I would shoot the white or pearl part first then the green then do the greenish blue back. It looks like an easy lure to paint if you have any more questions please feel free to e-mail me.

Ryno don't get too exited bud. Your mold isn't ruined. It will probably take a few pours. I personaly would let it peel then peel it of and devcon it. Either way your ok the mod podge just won't last. It won't hurt your baits either. Good luck

Red, would it be possible to put a person in touch with this fellow?

It will peel off soon. I answered your post on the other board you must have missed it sorry.

I have had this happen a few times. I suspect that it is becouse of an improper mix or the amount of thinner used. What I do is if a bait still has that not all the way hard yet feeling is put it in the fridge for 6-8 hours or set it in a warm place heat and cold weather seem to dry the bait out till it's fully cured.

Ryno, I thin mine way down then add 2-3 coats before the mold is coated. The reason I don't put 1 thick coat on is becouse it will lose the rings and character of the molded worm. I think the reason you have apply a few coats is becouse the plaster actualy absorbs the epoxy a little.

Red, Where ya gettin that there holomylar stuff?

Red, How about just using plain old foil and cut it then do what your doing? This would still give you the reflective minnow look. Let me know how it works. Just a thought off the top of my head. I also might have another material that may work let me see if it holds up to heat I will post back.

Knifemaker Glad to see you finaly got it I hope I helped

I also like the Krylon primer. I have a Badger air brush and I am very happy with it. As far as getting the old paint off I would use a fine grit sand paper unless some one here knows of a good paint stripper to use.

Get your self a good air brush and start off with acrylic paint such as found at Wal-mart or any craft store. The paint will need to be thinned in order to shoot unless you buy a air brush ready type paint such as Createx. You will also need to prime the lure before painting with a white primer. Any other questions feel free to ask.

cooley been making my own wood bodies for a while. I am getting a big demand for my baits and I want to speed up the process. I have never made plastic lures and frankly don't want the trouble of starting some thing else I just want to buy the bodies and be done with it. I want Pine for the cranks and top water and oak for the jerk baits

I am looking for wood and plastic bodies already done. I would like to get cranks stick baits and top water's like spooks and pop r's

Knifemaker, Try doubling up another sheet of foil so you have 8 layers and just keep your hot plate set as low as it goes. Don't turn it up see what happens. If after 10 minutes you don't turn the plastic clear turn the heat up a little and wait. Trust me it's you not the plastic I had the same problem as you when I first started. I kept burning and I swore I had a bad batch. I just heated it s-l-o-w-l-y and finaly found a setting point where I could heat and now I am good. I learned the layers of foil tip from someone here. It works when I dip tubes I can leave my plastic on the burner for an hour and still not scortch or burn my plastic. I use a steel pan with a pour spout from wal mart. Good luck don't give up you'll get it. Once you get to pouring you'll probably have trouble with air bubbles but I will help you tackle that latter.

Like I said before it might need as many as 5-6 sheets thick of the foil. Also try heating up s-l-o-w-l-y. Start out with a little heat then add a little more and wait 3 minutes and keep repeating till you find a setting that will heat your plastic just enough and not scorch.

I am wondering about the paint you guy's like I am using water based but after taking a good look at your baits I am thinking of trying laquer. How hard is it too get it cleaned out of your air brush? Also what brands do you recamend?

Pine is an exelent wood floats high and fast. It is also my secret pine has has a hell of a wobble with a coffin bill lip. A lot of people in my area are like what you use pine but when they try my baits they wana buy them right away.

I always had the same problem and I found that if you take aluminum foil and cover your burner it will end scorching and burning. I use 3-4 sheets. I will leave the pot on the burner when dipping tubes and it still won't scorch. good luck

does the chrome look real? The reason I ask is becouse I have tried a lot of chrome paint the didn't come out good. Thanks for the heads up