Senkosam

I poured some Beavers this morning and figured I'd use florescent chartreuse flakes in clear plastic instead of dye, for that color. I've done this with other flakes in clear and come up with good color combos that almost look solid from above. This is comparable to using clear flakes in clear plastic to make milk white. The one on the left is a laminate using dark pumpkin as the first pour (body only).

I don't ever advocate using LC junk, but I'm sure he has a decent ringworm mold. The alternative woud be to make your own with Durham's plaster for better detail. Just push the worm down as far as you can and coat the cavity well with a thing sealer. The ribbed texture more than offsets the flat side. (ie. http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/displayimage.php?album=3&pos=3 ) (nice job, by the way, Bummer Baits.) A one sided beaver mold is a perfect example where one flat side is fine and doesn't offset total lure profile or action. Before we were all blessed with metal 2-part molds or made them ourselves, flat sided baits worked fne and still do. Many of us have gone to total-rounded because of sales. Even plaster will yield a decent one part, at 1/10 the cost of Durham's, but molds last a long time and Durham's detail is only beat by resin or aluminum. Did you check with Del or Bob?

Mine can't with the amount of salt I add. Salt kills durability every time, even floured salt. It's worse with crystal salt, which is what I use when attempting to copy the spongy texture of GY's plastics and which I prefer in a horizontal-sinker. Combine this with the amount of softener that's needed to offset the firmness added by salt, and you have a lure that is lucky to stay on the hook past the 4th fish. But your're right - If I use no salt, the baits will last and last, with an occasional clipping of the front end when the worm won't stay up. Using this stick C-rigged, bullet weighted, no weight (as a shallow jerk worm) or with a jig head, would make sense because part of the worm would always float. Butt regardless of the versatility-claims of Senko advocates for anything other than horizontal sinkers, I think most knockoffs with less salt would do better, especially at half the price and double the durability. (Is that a weedless 1/2oz jighead?)

Basskat, next time you have a candy thermometer, take the average peak temp you pour at. Thanks to all for helping me with this dilemma. Frank M

The following method is for two part molds that yield a completely rounded lure with no flat sides. Flat sided baits work well, but may not appeal to the eye or have the same action as a rounded lure. The Senko or other jerk worm is the easiest to duplicate and catch fish immediately. If only a one part mold is needed, disregard the second part method. Materials: 1. Mold container (disposable soft-aluminum baking pan, which can be used again -3 for a buck), margarine container or any thing that will allow you to pop the mold out by pushing from the bottom 2. Metal tablespoon 3. Water 4. Popsicle sticks 5. Thin Aluminum foil 6. Vaseline 7. Lure to be copied (i.e. start with a jerk worm- Senko type) 8. Mod-Podge craft sealer or any plaster/wallboard sealer such as, Valspar Gloss Wall Protector (water soluble), Devcon Epoxy or engine paint. 9. Water-color brushes (fine hair) 10. Plaster of Paris (i.e. Home Depot - 25lbs. for $7!) or Durham?s Water Putty (a finer-detail plaster) 11. Steak knife or small sharp knife Method for first mold half: 1.Add a little cold water to the mold container. 2.Add heaping tablespoons of plaster, stir with p. stick, smoothing out all lumps against the sides and tap the mold on the tabel to reveal air bubbles. Push them to the sides of the container. 3.The plaster should have the consistency of cake batter and should be at least 3/4" high per mold half; (a little less wide for one sided molds or thinner baits). 4.Wait until the solidifying plaster will support the weight of your original or prototype - (about 20 min. depending on how liquid the plaster was when mixed and room humidity). 5.Lay the lure to be copied half way, lengthwise into the soft plaster. (Suggestion: start with a 4" Senko or similar stick for instant mold success.) The front end of the lure should be within 1/2" or less and to the end of the container, closest to it. This will later be 1/2 of the pour-hole. 6.Take 2" of popsicle stick and shove down into the soft plaster next to the form. This will be a guide stick for aligning the halves later when pouring. Two marbles may also be used and then removed before pouring the second half. 7.Let the plaster harden for about 30 min. or until the top is hard and dry. Here's what it should look like for a one or two part mold. The picture at the left shows the embedded lures and guide sticks Note: At this point, all you have to do for a one-part mold is wait until the mold is completely dry and then apply gloss protector on the surface and into the cavity. The back or sides need not be coated. Method for second mold half: 1. Grease up the plaster top and embedded popsicle stick with vaseline. Take small strips of Al foil and tuck into the corners, on the cavity surface (lures still in place) and up at least two sides of the container. The aluminum will serve as a guide when popping the halves apart and make it easier to do so. 2.In a separate container, mix up enough plaster to add another 3/4" of plaster over what's in the tin. 3.pour and then wait until the top half is dry and hard (25-45 min.) 4. Use a thin, wide screw driver to separate the two halves, a little at a time, by inserting and twisting. Work your way around the line of separation. Again, your guide for halve-separation is the aluminum foil. The parts will soon begin to pop apart and separate, with the lower half holding the guide-alignment stick. (If the stick comes loose, super glue it in place.) Finished Kalin grub mold part 3 - finishing the mold: 1. Remove original lures. 2. Take a steak knife and carve a semicircular pour hole into both halves from the mold edge to the front of the lure. 3. After the mold dries completely, apply a sealer to the cavities, both mold, opposing surfaces and pour hole(s). 4. Use a fine hair brush to swab out any excess sealer to maintain lure details and edges. 5. Let dry for 1/2 hour and use. Note: after many uses, sealer may flake off. Always reapply to prevent problems of lure release and tearing and to maintain a glossy sheen. Note: Fish Formula oil is one of the cheapest and best worm release agents. Brush into the cavities, pour and easily pull out even deep section.

Del, I'm concerned about overheating and effects on glitter, but I'll try a hotter temp. If not, I'll go mill's way with partial fill and tapping. Which reminds me, my sticks are soft and salty (like the 1-bass Senko) and I decided to partial fill to within 1/2" from the top. I topped off the last 1/2" with fresh plastic that I added hardener to improve the durability at the hook end. The action in the fish tank is no different and hopefully will be durable for more than 4 bass (which mine usually are, unless a sharp toothed pick slashes them to pieces.)

275 is probably on the cool side? Always under 325.

That's the first way I tried, but I'm so impatient to pop that pretty motha out a there, that I forget the count (usually 12 seconds for 3/4 full. I think I'll discipline myself and do it that way, mold tap and wire poke. You gotta do what you gotta do! I can't stand freak'n air bubbles!! Frank

Thanks Del, I think that I might be pouring too fast and when I top off the pour spout, it cools too fast to go down and traps a solid air bubble 1/3 way down the stick because of contraction. Tapping helps though and maybe pouring each cavity only 3/4, filling later to the top.

I top off the reservoir, never see the plastic suck down into the hole and still get bubbles unless I tap the mold and use wire or skewer to pop the one bubble that may be 1/3-1/2 long at the top part of the stick. I've even tiltled the mold when pouring - no dice.

The bubbles form at the top of the lure in the mold as the hot plastic contracts.

Bob's Tiki mold - 5 1/4" stick (4 1/4" Senko comparison)

Bob's 5" Tiki. Don't even pour 5" Senkos anymore due to the incredible catch rate of this fast tapered stick. Once the end gets a little ripped, I chew off 1/4" and cast again (bottom stick)

Tapping the mold on a hard surface my draw the hot plastic down into the mold and pop the bubble. Pour into the cavity formed. You can make sure the bubble is gone by inserting a wire to feel for a space that shouldn't be there and maybe pop one that is. Air bubbles ruin a bait and cause more work.

Unlucky break (no pun intended) especially in spring when the fishing has been explosive. Get well and let it mend properly. Frank

If you want a bass-belly white, flour some salt or use clear flakes in clear plastic and pour 1/2 the mold; use Jim's color scheme for the dorsal half. I use light gold vs. yellow gold for bass. The above bass use flakes that are all .015 (my first test pour.) I've since increased the size of the flakes to .040 for black and gold, but left the lime green or kelly at .015. The belly is sugar flakes in clear plastic - much different and more natural than using white dye or pearl. Kinami's bass is probably different.

I don't understand how a newbie would access the sponsor page, archive or other parts of the index unless he knew to only press the forums button. Dropdowns usually mean that the heading is non-functional. Frank

Just don't start wearing sanitary pads or you're outta here!

For anyone new to the site and for those that want sponsor info, press the forums button only (no drop downs). Listed on this page are the dropdowns listed plus : The Bait Shop which contains: Sponsor Information (my inventory) Traders Post (for swapping baits) and News Archive which contains: stories member spotlight general (fishing tips) Knowledge Base: Member Submitted Tutorials One would not know this general page exits because of the dropdowns. Frank

Thanks Del http://www.tackleunderground.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=3262 or http://senkosam.tripod.com/index.html e-mail : postcard@frontiernet.net

So true. I don't care if a bait is as ugly as Anna Nicole's rear end, as long as it catches fish! Some of the reheats I've been pouring literally look like s***, but the bass don't mind one bit. I've never thrown a s*** brown soft plastic in my entire life or expected a bass would take one, but over a dozen bass have proven me wrong! Frank

Thanks Jim for the clear flake kudos. If I'm in the mood to pour smaller amounts of crystal-salted lures and I'm willing to stir like crazy & pour fast, I don't use clear flakes. But, if I have to pour a dozen or more baits, I use the flakes for suspension purposes and durability.

What Nova says ..... I also use a small electric coffee grinder and since it only has one speed, flours salt in no time. I store the excess in a either of two ways: double bagged zip lock bag with the air pushed out (good for pushing out any clumps later on) or a herb bottle for sprinking in powdered salt into the cold plastic and stirring. Clear plastic flakes do a good job of keeping the salt in suspension but also require more softner.

My take on why GY's salted stick is semi-translucent (lighter colors only), is that his process uses larger crystals and his automation is able to mix-&-pour at the same time, probably whipping the plastic while pouring. Even using this process, his colors like watermelon, smoke and pumpkin are dark and opaque. You can do the same, but it would require pouring only four cavities using a maximum ratio of unground salt-to-plastic, stirring the hot plastic real fast and then pouring immediately. Plastic cools and more pours with that much salt may be impossible. You may only get a few worms at a time, but the larger, crystal-to-plastic ratio would approach that of the Senko and more light will come through. Of course, you'd have to discard the super salted, unusable plastic, at the bottom of the pot or cup, after the last worm. The StikO may use the same technique and their sticks are more translucent than Senkos, but they use less salt and the weight of their worms is not uniform. Some float at one end, some have much less salt and sink too slowly and a few sink horizontally, but never as fast a Senko. Floured salt is the best alternative for our mass production and produces opaque plastic when the ratio is high, but salt always leads to stiffer plastic, so much more softener is needed to come even close to Yamamoto's softness. But again, durability is sacrificed and anglers question how much softeness is really needed to get a strike. I've caught bass on some pretty stiff worms (my first handpours). To produce a uniform stick requires juggling many important variables and the end user has little idea of the discipline it takes to maintain even a little uniformity, plus the time for each lure when handpouring. Not to put salt in a sinking stick, makes it a near-surface worm. Put in too little salt and it's just another slow-sinking knock-off. I prefer always putting in at least some salt for bite-retention texture and casting weight in my cigar shapes, but little salt in my long thin jerkworms (ie. Trickworm shape).

Most of the time fish don't care about the surface details or whether a lure has a certain amount of color or glitter. It's more important to add the right amount of softener for the action the fish may be lured by. As long as the bait has the minimum amount of color or flash to get their attention, the rest is just eye candy for the angler. Fish don't know the difference between one pumpkin and another of the same hue and will bite just as aggressively, regardless. I worry that if I started selling on the scale that some on this site do, lack of perfect uniformity would be my downfall and lead to complaints. The basic shapes and clean cut appearance would be maintained, but the color may be a little bit off from order to order. If a customer wants a lure poured by a machine, in a pretty package, thinking that pretty is better, there's no way I can increase his confidence in a handpour unless he sees it catch fish.