Senkosam

So true, so true. But back to the question of weighting versus the reduction in action when using salt. I now stock clear plastic flakes (sugar) that adds weight to a lure but doesn't detract from it's softness and allow light to pass through. Salted baits allow almost no light through and make a lure unevenly firmer. Salt settles easily and clogs production pots. It makes the bottom layer of plastic unusable for reheating. Salt makes plastic lures less durable and absorbs water, making it permanently useless. I small bit of floured salt can still be used for taste, but the heavier lure allows a smaller weight to be used for a better horizontal action of any lure style. I've sent samples to five people, plus worms that have no salt. It is my standard for weighting plastics and I thing bigger fish have done the same thing.

I guess as long as the scent used is not oil based (like Fish Formula and Bait Mate) the fish may taste or smell it. Dr. Jones mentioned the the molecules of oil are much too large to fit into the receptors for taste and smell in fish and cannot be detected. If a crank had a sponge or scent release chamber, I suppose a trail might be possible, but without, I can't see it. Omouri won the Citgo BASS world championship in the last 10 minutes of the final tx day using a Bagley Killer B crank to bring in a nice bag. He was running the crank in shallow water near overhangs and past laps at a medium to fast retrieve and caught over 15lbs. in a small stretch of water. Iaconelli was also cranking large areas and catching fish. Neither's catch would have benefited from using scent. Same for Brauer, flipping trees or Jay Yelas using a topwater frog. Reaction lures are bit from reflex, reactive lures are bit for all the other reasons fish bite. Like politics and religion, scent will always be controversial because, - put two anglers of equal skill in a boat, one using scent , the other not, - how will they compare over many outings?

Jim, I have no problem with the length of time it would take for a mold to be shipped, but I would appreciate a time reference e-mailed automatically. Sixteen days is a little long to be wondering where your order is, without a word, especially when I talked to Del earlier this week and still had no idea when to expect the package. I don't have any idea how long it takes to cut a new mold, but would have been more than happy to wait for whatever time I was told it would take - if only I was notified. I hope to do more business with Del because of his good rep and because he has superior products - this one set back is just water under the bridge. Del e-mailed me an hour ago to tell me the molds should be here next week - good enough for me! Frank

Good point N.J. Salt on the outside of a bait is not there for very long - one cast only. Salt that is embedded in the skin of a soft plastic also will dissolve after dunking enough times. Salt that is embedded in a worm stays undetected because fish bite the worm but not into it or tear it's surface. I believe it's the softness and chewability that keeps them holding on longer. Salt does not join with the molecules of plastic to create a new compound - crystals, no matter how fine, stay separate. Now, from my experiences with ice fishing this winter, I believe that the scent of a bleeding wax worm did turn fish on beneath me, and that from that point on, unscented plastic was enough to catch 10-15 out of one hole. In this sense, a potion that stays on the surface of a lure is not a bad idea for slow reaction bites and neutral bass, but for most of my fishing, swimming lures( grubs, cranks, blade baits), topwaters and all lure types other than soft plastics that just sit-&-jiggle, I don't believe benefit from using scent. Power fishermen don't have (or need) the time to use scent, and many pros are run-&-gun anglers or flippers that crash through the veg using a 1 oz. sinker or jig. In other words, wham-bham-thank you ma'am! I do use scent - (my rabbit's foot) - just - in - case... Crappies get turned off by it, but that proves that it does have an affect!!

Like Al said... I've added it to pearl or yellow pearl and floured salt with nice results. A great color when laminated to translucent watermelon/.040 black flake/ mix. Your lams are great - give it a try. (Wonder how yam laminated to purple with marigold and green flake would look; or yam laminated to pearl; or laminated to green pumpkin with seed; or laminated to light smoke with gold, marigold and black flake ?)

I ordered T-stick and Senko molds on the 4th and still haven't gotten them - no response to phone or e-mail messages. I'm leaning more and more towards Bob's TS for molds and Del for plastic and dye. I'm one to push a business with fair-to-good products, but great service and customer satisfaction.

So-o-o many times I've caught bass and pickerel that have had fat full bellies (long after spawn) and partly digested prey still in their gullets. Salt is great for casting distance with little or no weight used, but a pain to add. I'll keep everyone informed about cystal flakes that I'm experimenting with as a sub for salt. The tear drop plastics I've poured for ice fishing, have caught tons of panfish and none contain salt. Much of the time a lone sunny or perch will munch on the tiny lure with #8 hook imbedded for a few minutes and then BANG! The same for 1/32 oz. hair jigs I tied using no meat as enticer. Flutter in position - stop - and BANG! Have caught over 100 fish in three weeks (5 species) using a combo of Swedish Pimple spoons with meal worms, to chum the hole, and soft plastics for the majority of fish. I will try some 3" drop shot worms I recently poured from dipping - no salt added.

You got it!

Bob's 4 1/4" stick is the exact copy of the Senko; Del's 5 1/4" stick is the other exact copy. Bob's Bamboo stick is a thinner version of Del's Tiki and preferrable when less bulk is needed. I love it! Bob's 4 1/4" Senko

You asked for it! http://senkosam.blogspot.com/ http://senkosamsothercreations.blogspot.com/ http://morecabinfevercreations.blogspot.com/ A candle and a soldering iron. Doesn't anyone else play with their old plastics??

Jim, I agree. There are so many baits to make easy copies from that it would take one a lifetime. LC has copied just about every soft plastic made, the difference being the flat side. Even if there was no trademark or coyright on any lure that came out of his molds, I wouldnt pass one off as the original because 1. the copy would look like a copy and 2. I wouldn't lie to a customer. Every year Bass Pro has a copied lure design for sale under a different name and sales pitch. Since many companies stopped making certain years ago and didn't patent them, others reinvented the design. Like you and others have said, it doesn't take much for a large company to get molds made for one of our designs and not only would we not be offered compensation, but not even a thank you. It's kind of like the fashion industry - spies are at every show, stealing designs or getting ideas how they can improve on what's walking down the runway.

Hey, I'm already calling my lure 'sweeter beaver', though the resemblance to the original is less than the hand poured one. But no worry, I only sell to a select few. I wouldn't be too worried about this bozo. His company has produced mediocre plastics for over 10 years and I doubt any have ever been patented. This design's popularity will fade and go by the wayside of every new and improved lure made. Remember cyberflex? Walmart's been having a clearance on them for a buck a bag since Dec.

Other than Spike-It Chunk paint, I can't think of a formualtion that would bond with the plastic and stay on the surface. I use the chunk paint for dots, eyes and stripes.

Thanks RM for the kudos. Even when I overpour, I still get the air pocket. I shove a wooden skewer into the top 1/3, pop the bubble and then overfill. Seems to do the trick. Soon I will be carrying clear plastic flakes that have proven to be the best substitute for salt. It weights the plastic but allows more light to come through than floured salt and I think .040 would be better than .015. Salt can still be added for taste, but is not necessary for weight. Softener must still be added, but not as much. Amazing how close the worm feels to the Senko.

Double dipped for the bi-color effect?

Man, do I like looking at other peoples creations! Good job. What size are they?

Nice! Kind of reminds me of Producto's Tournament worm. It was one of my best tidal river bass baits!

Do a google on platisol and you'll see manufactures that only deal in larger amounts. It would be cheaper for you to buy plastic baits on clearance (local or mail order), especially clear, get some dyes, hardener and softener, a few molds and pour your own. Just be very careful not to overheat. Walmart sells packs for a buck-a-bag of many major company baits.

Lurecrafting is an art, a science, a discipline and a challenge that we all enjoy as much a the original wood carvers and fly tyers of old. We may all love to fish, but I think we equally love to catch fish on what we create and differ from those that are dependent on catolog companies and tackle shops for many lures that can be custom made by the individual. The outlay for the simplest lures is under a buck, but the satisfaction is priceless and the advanced knowledge of what can catch many species of fish, is a big plus! Post some of your stuff in the gallery. Sam

Why would Shimano issue such a patent? They've never manufactured lures to my knowledge. It there is a patent threat, it's a good thing adding an acrylic polymer is in reality, a plastic, so all we're doing is adding plastic to plastic. Good point about leaving a hook in - guarenteed to rust it, which is also the problem of lead molded in a plastic body (swimbaits). Unless the lead is primer-coated with something to keep it from direct contact with plastic, it turns a light fuzzy gray from oxidation. I saw baits for sale at a recent bass seminar that exhibited lead corrosion in plastic lures that were weighted with tiny lead balls. Not something I'd buy! Thanks for the info.

Anyone who sold salt impregnated plastics last year were in violation of Gene Larew's original patent. He went after Yamamoto and won a large settlement. Kind of doubt anyone is going after small time handpourers doing less than a million a year. Larew's patent ran out this year.

The flakes are clear polyester (same as the glitter) and resembles sugar. When it heats, it folds and maybe melts but it gives the plastic the same appearance as that which contains salt crystals versus floured salt. What I found interesting is the way it closely simulates the spongy feel of Yamamote plastics - a worm slowly return to it's original shape when pinched and is not rubbery like regular plastic worms. Test Senkos or GY's grubs to see what I mean. (Of course 30% salt probably accounts for the same characteristic, but salt for the handpourer is a real pain to use.) Even if no one is interested in crystals as a sub for salt, I probably will get the 11 lb. min. to use and keep on hand after I test it one more time in a Production Pot - the ultimate clogger. Weighted flukes, grubs and sticks with light jigs/ hooks are some of my best lures.

I pour at cooler temps of 250 to 275 and find the glitter stays distributed a little better.

Store baits in scented oil in plastic bags. The other thing I might try is to heat scented oil in the microwave (not too hot) and dip every bait or heating the plastic bags containing oiled baits for 5 sceonds. Spike-It garlic-scented dye works this way by melting the surface slightly to allow color and scent to mix in. Once the plastic dries, the color and scent are sealed into the surface. (I discoverd this that when dipping grubs and then immediately rigging on jigs, the plastic became soft and fragile near the hook and wouldn't allow the grub to stay up on the jig. Same for T-rigging worms when rigging before the dye dries completely and all excess is dry.)