Senkosam

Good job Merc. I guess you won't be doing this again for swap #2. Sam

Craig, I understand exactly where you're coming from because I believe fish will accept a fake more so if it'sdifferent. The only time I power fish, is in heavy cover in the first part of the season. Today I caught a 6 lb LM on a crankbait, but caught 10 picks and 8 LM on my own sticks and grubs. (I got soaked from the fast moving rain and lightning storm, but went home happy!) It's the first fish over 4 I've gotten all year. The great thing about plastisol are the properties that make it one of the best producers of all species of fish. Pouring has opened up all new avenues of experimentation and rather than keep an inventory of manufactured lures, hoping they're not discontinued and paying up to 65 cents each, just a few zaps in the microwave and I'm all set. My new inventory will contain variations of the above mentioned characteristics. Change-up lures do catch fish off guard.

Since I've begun pouring, I've noticed that there are basic variables that can affect a worm or grub's action and appearance. Not only do we have the options of different styles/profiles of soft plastic, but can work with other variables that can make a big difference in action or bait appearance. For example, the simple Senko-type worm can be poured to have more-or-less salt for weight and believe it or not, hardness. Without using softner, the worm has the action of a hard jerkbait versus a softer stick. Both work very well, depending on presentations used. Micromunch's short worms are super-soft and great for the soft bite. Length is coupled with girth. Chubby worms that are 5.5", act differently that 4.25" worms. Slim designs don't benefit from the tapered ends like Senko copies that have a thicker middle-sack. Thicker middles may do well wacky rigged and horizontal-dropped, whereas slimmer middles or uniform-thickness worms may do better with whipping, jerk-style fishing. Laminate, versus opaque, versus translucent versus transparent are options that make life interesting. Salted worms will always be opaque, as are certain colors. Contrast to opaque colors only exists with flash or flakes or double pouring two colors. Flake size makes a bif difference concerning texture-appearance. For example, large, metallic flakes stand out like large scales and reflect maximum light. Tiny flakes offer a more internal/external sheen. A combo of both may be self defeating except in a grub tail where medium and small flake mixtures flash different colors. Color brightness is an important variable. Opaque floresence is the maximum color/light reflector. Pink and florescent Yam (LC) are my best opaque stick and grub colors. Margarita (Zoom's Fat Albert) is my second best, especially when watermelon/red, black or purple flake is a laminate-side. Grubs don't need to be hard but, a harder, thicker, and wider sickle-tail thumps the water and results in maximum vibration versus a soft, thin, Kalin-like tail. A harder, salted, grub body benefits from being able to use a lighter sinker which allows the thumper tail to rotate the whole body 45 degrees on either side - kind of like a fat lady pushing her way to a 75%-off sale-table. Ditto's Gator Tail worms come to mind as the first to produce this tail-action in a plastic worm. Lastly, tail design, as mentioned, can make a big difference. Even the Trickworm's knob-tail or the augertail by Mann, creates different profiles and water-displacement waves than the tapered, straight designs. Each has it's uses depending on personal preference and fish activity, but should always be considered an important variable. The addition of rattles may make a difference, but I'm not convinced their worth the time, effort or expense. There may be more, but these came to mind before I leave for work. I thought I'd relay what most of you take for granted as varibles we can offer ourselves or our customers (for those in the business), that will never be offered by the million-a-day-pouring big-boys or Bass Pro. Sam

Thanks Craig, but Gregg left one on my boat and I made a plaster mold of it. The grubs/ worms have come out decent and I caught picks on them immediately. Just wondered if anyone else uses copies of the original. They're very easy to pour (even 2 part molds, where you lay the grub on it's side to make one cavity.) I also made a Riverside Big Wag Worm with it's auger-type tail, but haven't had a chance to try it. Bass and picks jumped all over it when used it last week. (How's the hand?) Frank

Del, doyou still offer dragon fly molds and if so, how much? Bear Paw baits needs one for a client. Sam

Does anyone pour sliders? What size(s) and color(s)? I recently made a mold from the fusion of 2 baits: Stren 2" grub body and the tail of a Sassy Shad. Last week I melted the combo together and caught pickerel, so I figure the molded product will work on bass and panfish. Sam

The Senko is a unique stick. Even if someone could exactly duplicate it(and I'm sure a lot of home pourers have come close), there is no improvements or modifications that could ever be needed. It is a classic bait that will be around for many years to come, just as it is. The soft stick or cigar stick concept, on the other hand, has been modified many times and resulted in unique action/profiles and weights that fall and look differently. This is the same thing that happened once everyone found how lucrative mass-producing worms could be after Creme made the scene. The big difference they all made was to invent new tail designs and modify softness, which did result in more angler appeal, if not more fish appeal. No, the Senko model is in a class by itself - forever copied, but unlikely ever improved upon. The big guys must catch up or continually lose market share by exactly copiing the Senko and offering it at a much lower price. The Stik-O is only worth $.20 each and not the regular price of $5/20 because it's a poor copy and can't compare, even though it catches fish. BPS will have to continually offering the lure at $3.99 to get many anglers to buy the product . There are just too many better copies are out there that are similar to the Senko, on the fall. Sam

Soft sticks are the latest innovation that has taken over plastic worm fishing for the most part. Senkos fly off the rack faster than any other brand or stlye worm, but the copies that abound in great numbers, also have their uses. I believe fish can tell the difference between a slimmer stick (Cabela's brand), a fatter tailed Stik-O, a fatter center Magic Stick, or the uniform taper found in Senkos. In the case of all lures, form and function go hand-in-hand. The slimmer designed stick make for a better jerkbait that allows a more snake-like or whip action. The thicker centered sticks, allow for a nicer end-wobble on the drop. Of course, sticks many be smooth (Lurecrafts) and catch as many fish as those with prominent segments, but lure texture (like scent), has always been a superstition of mine concerning plastics. I believe the hydrodynamic differences can be 'felt' or detected by the lateral line and in the mouth of a fish. Softmess is a conclusive reason fish hold on longer, but what about texture (the feel of a surface)? I make different syles of sticks using Wacko Worms, Senkos, Lurecraft, Stik-Os, JDC, Case Magic Sticks and the slim, Sinking Slugger (Cabela's). I've joined two halves of a Zoom Speed worm together, as well as other faster- taper worms to get a different 'wacky action'. (The molds produce the unified product.) I've made a mold of a Sharpie pen, which produces a chubby stick. (It worked, so I'm always on the lookout for felt-tip pens that have 'potential'. )(LOL) You never know when a change-up style of stick will be just as productive as changing colors. (Now, where did I put that rabbit's foot?) Sam

Does everyone use all of the lure types they pour? I do, without a question, because they catch fish! Sam

Thanks Merc - those that sent, know their baits have been received. Sam

12?

Keep mine and catch some fish. I guarentee them to catch fish or your money back! LOL Sam

For all you innovative types that have made your own molds, what lure molds have you made? Here's my list of copies: 4 1/4" and 5 1/4" Stik-O 4" and 5" Senko 5" Wacky Worm (stick) 5" Case Magic Stick 5" Riverside and Fat Albert grubs 3" and 4" Kalin Grubs 3" Kinami Grubs 4" Mann Jelly Worm 6" Zoom Trick worm here's a list of modified-lure molds: 5" mold of a Sharpie Marker (fat little sucker) 4" BPS Spring Grub / Fat Albert curl tail Sam

Zoom's Margarita 8 drops of florescent yellow (added to 1/2 cup cold plastisol) .035 flakes of: kelly green glitter black glitter chartreuse glitter The combo is great in a stick worm. Sam

Pop, a small coffee grinder that cost less than $15. I was too lazy to grind my own coffee and it collected dust for 8 years. (Good thing I'm a pack rat!) The only thing about using powdered salt is that the worm color is always opaque and metal flakes are subdued. The reason for the super white flour-color, is probably due to the crystals being scratched up on all sides from the grinder blades. Before I found that grinding salt makes it suspend and pour easier, I used unground salt and had a more translucent bait that had far less salt in it. Once the leftover plastic hardened in the pyrex, 90% of the salt was at the hard bottom. Maybe Cargil salt is the way to go. I melted Senko chunks and regular-sized salt crystals settled to the bottom. Too bad there isn't a way to pour plastic and salt at the same time into the mold. If the Lee pot was funnel shaped, it could be done by pouring the salt into the center of the melted plastic as it drained from the spout. Sam

Note the smoke or vapor coming off from a just-ground qty. of regualr salt. You might not see it clearly from the pi on the right, but the product has the same consistency as flour and doesn't change lure color. The ones I sent in the swap, all have this salt in them. At $.50/lb. (no tax or S&H), it works for me. The only other expense is the time needed to grind a lb. of salt. (5 minutes/lb.). Sam

I use a small bottle with a flip top lid, apply a few drops and smear the stuf with my finger tips. I always keep a towel handy for that and fish slime (especially pickerel b.o.). It's neat and nonwasteful. Sam

JackL, can I get the 'old' mo from LC? Sam

basskat, you may be right about the 12" bass majority in some N.Y. lakes and rivers, but for their size, they've got big cajones ! They eat 12" worms for breakfast. LOL Even N.Y. crappie chomp on bass baits. Sam

Mercury, would it be too much to ask for a list of persons whose packets you received, just too be sure they didn't get lost? You could update the list just by editing the post. Sam

Sounds good - I like silicone molds, except they don't produce the glossy surface as do epoxy-coated plaster molds or Del's. Sam

Is there anything to the Walking Worm design? The picture show a flattened, segmented straight worm with a coil. Looks like another 'Banjo'-type invention for late-night tv-insomniacs. Sam

If the bottled color is black, what colors due you mix to get true motor oil irridescense? I'm thinking chart. and ? Sam

Couldn't wait to show you a few of the lures sent. Sam

Flakes were sprinkled into the mold (mostly tail) and on top of the hot plastic (tail's surface). The tail's flash is like throwing a spinnerbait! Sam