Senkosam

Anchor brand pyrex is the hardest to get the plastic off the walls. Is there an easier way than using a knife or razor blade?

I came up with this idea 10 year ago and now prefer barbless jigs or cut the barb off using a wire cutter. 1. 24g coated floral arrangement wire 2. Wrap once around the base of the line tie and snip on side close to it. 3. Cut the other end so the wire when bent is midway down the lure when the wire end is pushed into it. (picture) Note: Smaller jigs can take a smaller gauge wire, but 24g works for this and other applications such as skirted jig & trailers and swimbait hooks. Won't leave home without them installed and they won't " tear up the bait ". Note the wire trailer holder (arrow) attached with the skirt using a wire tie. Not only can baits be reused after catching over a dozen fish, but the baits stay up on the hook. My idea differs in that the lure holder is attached to each device permanently, ready to use when changing baits.

Still like MF for clarity, no smell and more reheats per cup without yellowing.

What style lure and how rigged? I came up with a solution over ten years ago for T rigged soft plastics, trailers on skirted jigs and grubs rigged on ballhead jigs. Just a bit of craft wire does the trick for all.

There is purple glitter - more reddish and grape glitter - more bluish. I don't care for grape because it is darker and prefer the brighter flash of purple. Purple is used by more soft plastic bait producers and occasionally fuscia (a more pinkish purple) is used in colored plastic. I've sold both true purple and fuscia to those wanting a more classic looking lure.

I'm like you - don't make lures for customers like I used to and a gallon lasts a long time. Unit price is more but shipping is less for 1 gal. vs 5 gal. Which plastic yellows faster? I like to pour clear baits with glitter or dip colored baits into clear plastic.

I make many clear or translucent baits and reuse plastic over and over. Essential plastisol seems to yellow (brown) faster than other plastics so I was wondering about buying a jug of stabilizer. As you can see from the dark core lures, they all start out using clear plastic. Preventing yellowing after five or six reheats allows the core to be seen best. As you can see, the one set of grubs was poured with yellowed plastic- still translucent enough, but not ideal even after dipping the lures in Spike-IT. I keep temps below 300 for any bait I pour to enable more reheats.

Non De Gassed Bait junky plastisol what happens if I use it in a microwave?

Unless the formula changed, settles in no time and is hard to mix. M-F and Essential have been less of a hassle.

Ordered a gallon last night. May add softner if plastic is more like salt water plastic.

Most probably already do this, but for those that haven't, here's a way to make a hybrid lure using a candle vs glue. 1. Cut the parts you want to join from two or more lures 2. Briefly hold the ends over a candle flame 3. Roll the joined area over the flame to smooth the joined surface and prevent separation.

Late to the party, but I just now noticed this topic section. To make a two part POP mold that produces a full round bait requires two parts - of course. 1. set oiled lure(s) in the first wet POP bottom layer. I place two popsicle sticks in the POP as guides. 2. grease the surface of the hardened plaster and sticks with vasoline and top off with aluminum foil all around the lure cavity on the POP surface that will be separated. Also grease the top surface of the foil for quicker release. 3. The pour hole is usually either preformed by also putting a large greased straw(s) connecting lure head(s) to the outside or once the two parts set, carve the hole with a knive. 4. The surfaces that join to gether must be coated with a glossy liquid that's used for POP walls in a room and this includes the cavity. Two thin coats may be necessary. 5. Separate the two halves with a thin blade, working around the edges. 5. After coating the cavity with thin oil (mineral) and securing with elastic bands, stand the mold on end, place a socket (from a wrench kit) over each pour hole and pour. The wrench socket extends the pour hole and prevents the air bubble that will always happen as the cooling plastic contracts. This also is a good idea for 2-part aluminum molds. POP molds will never have the perfect detail of aluminum but enough that fish respond anyway. The only way to get fine details (very thin lure parts) to mold is to use an injector used for injection molds. I may have forgotten something so ask questions if problems arise.

Sorry about that. Spike It sell plastic as well as soft plastic dye.

I bought Anchor Hocking Pyrex cups year ago and have to scrape like crazy with a blade to get most of the old plastic out. Anyone have a better idea? The newer cups I bought recently (not that brand), allows me to pull out the plastic en mass to be reheated, leaving super clean sides and bottom.

Most likely a bad batch. Regardless of whether it's soft, medium or salt water in grade, it should pour smoothly and mix uniformly even at 280 degrees. I got LC plastic years ago and the hardner always get hard to mix after settling to the bottom. Even MF can have problems if you get a bad formulation. I use a paint mixer attachment on my drill to try and get more hardner off the bottom in my 5 gal. container. I will always try to buy plastic that mixes easy and stay with it. I like Bear's for that reason. Haven't tried Mr Twister yet. Good suggestion about using a coat hanger for small mouthed bottles like the juice bottles I store smaller quantities in.

Clarification: linmarfishing.com

There is no excuse for Del's bad service! He's been screwing customers around for ten years (maybe more) and after two bad experiences and long delays with no apologies, I decided to order from LC. Other companies cut great aluminum molds and you get them in the time promised. Bears is one I really like and nice to talk to on the phone and I'd rather order molds from him rather than Del's molds from LC. Do not do business with Del directly !

Do you have problems with cooled plastic sticking to the glass, requiring a blade to remove? A nightmare!

Maybe that's the difference between Anchor Hocking and World Kitchen. All I know is the plastic never sticks no matter how many reheats.

Kids get bored fast when introduced to fishing for the first time and out with a parent who would like to teach them the benefits of artificial lures over live bait. Size matters! Downsizing a particular bait and rigging it on a small jig or hook can result in more fish and more strikes. Though the fish may be small, there is always the chance a decent size fish will bite. I went fishing yesterday and was catching my usual 10" crappie and white perch on a 2 3/4" soft plastic minnow I pour. Once the bite slowed in an area, I downsized to 2" and used a 1/32 oz jig head down from the 1/16 oz. or 1/8 oz. used for the longer lures. The bites increased to 3 fish per minute. Granted the fish were small, but occasionally decent crappie, white and yellow perch and sunfish pretty much hooked themselves on the smaller lures because of the excitement of the school located in one area. Kids like activities they can be successful at and get praised for. Hooking fish one after the other creates memories that last a lifetime. Even a 6" sunfish will seem like a 2 lb bass to a kid reeling that fish in on a light action rod and light line.

I just discovered that Anchor Hocking is the last source for pyrex cups I'll ever buy again! The plastisol adheres after cooling and is difficult to remove. The company I've found that has no adherence is made by World Kitchen and the entire leftover plastic comes out completely. I bought mine from Bed, Bath & Beyond.

Consider trying this out based on the fact that reheated plastic always changes color every time it's reheated over 300 degrees. Once the plastic starts to darken and the flakes start to shrink to the extent of not being anything like the original color, cut a chunk off and put it in a cup with new plastic added along with new glitter. What you'll get is a tint of colored plastic that makes the lure appear three dimensional depending on viewing angle and light source and that the glitter now has a window to flash. Tints will usually be on the brownish side but they can be modified somewhat by only a drop or two of another color. As you can see, depending on angle and background, color and color intensity varies - just like with real forage.

Proves that less is best much of the time : less opacity / more translucence less in length or thickness or overall bulk less hardness less speed or slower fall (via lure design) less action (via lure design) less glitter for a more subtle flash less weight needed to get the lure to a desired working depth less pound test for better lure action

Amazing how a little goes a looong way!