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Senkosam

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Everything posted by Senkosam

  1. They sell these in the beauty supply section of most stores. They are used to wrap hair around something or other and come in different lengths.
  2. The easiest POP mold to make and use EVER!
  3. Sure, but like Mark said and the further away from the sprue the thinnest part is, the less likely to be filled hand poured. Here is a 5.5" hand poured copy and laminate to boot! :
  4. They only sell 1000 min. That a lot a bags!
  5. I just learned something new which makes sense where it concerns making the sprue (pouring channel). Use a cylinder of clay. If you use the kind that hardens, grease it up each time you need it, I use half and half cartons, the bottom of milk cartons and at times, cheap aluminum disposable baking pans that come in different shapes and sizes.
  6. I like your idea using clay for sprue and runner. Two part molds are nice, but there are things to remember when making them, the most important being the ability to separate them and making sure the two halves line up for pouring.
  7. That's him. I bought molds from him when he was in direct competition with Del.
  8. Riverside had great soft plastics before the company was sold and I miss many of the designs and colors. One I particularly liked was their Big Wag worm in three sizes. The one in the picture is one I'll need for spring attached to an in-line spinner or weedless spoon. The mold is six year old and still produces nice baits. Frank
  9. Today I came up with an idea to make my Uncle Josh Pork frog replica stand out - pour a laminate. I started using the chunk replica a few years ago and have always liked the fluttering tails when used with a swimming jig. As the tails flutter, they alternate light and dark surfaces bringing more attention to the tails and bait. Shown is the #1 size; I also have the smaller #4 replica in plaster. The above was my first attempt and I'm satisfied I'll be making more in other color combos. Frank
  10. Are the powders you mentioned more expensive or much different than Lurecraft.
  11. Mike hit it on the head and - Too many disappontmens in service and at times no returned phone calls or e-mails. My top pour molds from Del have shallow sprues and need an exention (like the socket I suggested in anothe post) or I get a bubble in 1/3 of the front of each bait. He had excuses saying it was the way I poured or that I should pre-heat the mold. Bull! Once Bear came out with extended sprues I was happier than a pig in you know what! Bear and Bob are first class and always bend over backwards to give good customer service or correct a mold's problem immediately. It doesn't take too many bad experiences, especially unexpected, unexplained long delays before I ask for my money back, take my business elsewhere and warn others what they might encounter. Before Lurecraft was taken over, Dave had the same problem, (I think that was what his name was) and new management made the company a pleasure to do business with.
  12. Senkosam

    laminate craw

    The first laminate I made with this mold. Easy!
  13. In the past I've waited for the plastic to be sucked into the hole and I still get a bubble. $15 / 3 makes sense - not bad. Of course if you have 4 sprues, you have to get another set if you want to pour faster. I don't sell, so it wouldn't be a problem or I could put a socket over the 4th hole. The socket idea is kind of a pain unless you have enough sockets of the right size because they do take a while to cool off so you can pull the excess plastic out. Fortunately the wife bought me socket sets for more than a few years as gifts thinking more is better or thinking I collected them, so now I have 4 of each size in metric and reg. LOL
  14. $15 each ! think I'll stick to using my sockets. Thanks for the quick response. Frank
  15. Top pour aluminum molds have always been a pain to pour into because of the hollow cavity in the front part of the bait especially if the mold is cold. Bear solved the problem by making an expanded well above each cavity and no bubble has ever formed in any of molds. I have stick and worm molds from other companies and most form bubbles when the mold is cold. even after a few pours. The bubble can take uip 1/3 to 1/2 of the lure, making that part hollow and making the lure unusable. I discovered this remedy this morning: Take a socket from a socket set that can sit over the hole and place it there before filling the cavity completely. The hot plastic gets sucked down into the socket just like in Bears and prevents any hollow spaces. I've tried this with four different cold stick molds and a two-part plaster creature mold I made a few years ago and no bubbles. If you don't want to buy injection molds for the same designs you already own molds for, this works. Plus, if you look at most injection mold openings, they also have a well above the smaller pour hole. So nice not having to deal with bubbles and repours!!!
  16. You don't need a mold. I discovered a process that makes a perfect d/s worm or small minnow using a shiny bathroon ceramic tile and multiple dips in hot plastic. The formation of the worm/minnow involves dipping the cut out lure from the tile surface in any length/ thickness you perfer as one would dipping candles. Soft plastic provides the best action though medium hard does okay. Never a bubble and lure action is perfect every time.
  17. I designed and make one that doesn't need a mold to produce but is very time consuming to get just right. The action is exactly like the body and tail ripple of a suspended shiner and all species attack it on various rigs (including a bobber). I'm not sure an injection mold could do justice to the design but I am sure that if I could mass market it, it would outsell any grub or minnow sold and become a standard lure type. The collarless jig with wire lock I designed must be used with the minnow and that would also blow away barbed jigs sold completely and reduce the number of grubs sold.by more than 90 %. I posted the method for making both on a few forums but after a few months of no feedback, deleted them.
  18. The violet, grape and fuscia colors I sell all have problems with temps over 300 and reheats, with grape being the worst. Sometimes I think it's the different brands of plastics but one thing is for certain: no bleed under 300 first time pour; slight bleed on the reheat.
  19. Senkosam

    Mold

    Bears and basstackle - it's unanimous! Forget Del - it's a wonder he's still in business.
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