Senkosam

The only time I've ever had silver or gold glitter bleed is with temps over 320 and usually on the second pour. White glitter does a good job of brightening the plastic a bit but is no solution for high temps or less heat resistant glitter (ie. craft glitter that Meadowbrook sells). The other thing that seems like a bleed is the optical property of a reflective surface contained in a plastic or gell. When the flakes are bright and mirror-like versus dark, the color is contained and reflects off plastic molecules and other bright metallic glitter that reflect most light. (I've never seen any color difference with silver flakes except that all flakes shrink after 3 reheats.) Try it with hologram glitter. You'll see a slight color spectrum reflected inside the plastic as it bounces around off the walls of the lure. I explained this to someone who thought my glitter was defective, but after he turned the temp down and slowed the heating from the get go, he had no problem. I posted samples on TU 5 years ago showing the results of different temps plus the number of reheats that result in gold glitter bleed.

In NY we've have an unusually wet August and Sept. so the humidity is high in my basement. I've noticed the problem of surface bubbles regardless of the plastic I'm heating or reheating and moreso with old plastic that contains salt. I grind my salt in a coffee grinder which helps reduce large granual plastic sweating as it sits on the shelf, but one thing that has helped the most is sealing all old plastic in zip lock bags with the air force out or in sealed plastic containers. Whatever foaming or bubbling happens initially is easily scrapped away with a steel butter knife, stirred and heated a bit more and then poured with no bubbles. I've been using soft and medium LC , M-F and Chemionics, salted and unsalted and they all have the problem of frothing which wasn't a problem in winter. Nuking may add to the bubbles but again, not a major issue if the plastic is stored properly and stirred. Frank

Last year I came up with a new design for a minnow-like bait and everyone who've tested it want to buy it from me. It works for all species - even an 18lb carp! lure lengths are 2, 2.75 and 3" . Question 1: It has a paper thin tail Is it possible to get an injection mold made that would fill that cavity as well as multiple baits? Question 2: Who might be a good source to make the mold and not resell the design? Nice thing is that I would not need to offer more than three colors or pour laminates and mass producing them wouldn't be that time consuming as long as there was little to trim. Frank

Thanks Jim. Always in the market for good plastics and service.

No grit of any kind. Last night I was able to duplicate the formula using fine (.008) clear flakes. Flakes with melt some with temps above 300 degrees and add a different density than salt or sand. I had a feeling it was an additive other than hardener that made the difference. I can use soft ofrmedium soft plastisol depending on final softness.

Thanks. A bait would tell me a lot if you would send one. (Still like my purple vs black grape.)

I've been using Lake Fork frogs for over a year and for the life of me can't figure out the plastic formulation. It doesn't have salt in it but is still denser than salt water plastic though softer. Lake Fork frogs are totally different than Zoom frogs which are loaded with salt but less flexible. Adding hardener to medium grade does not produce the same type plastic. Rage Tail Craws also have the same quality plastic. I'm thinking that if I add enough clear flakes, which I've used in the past to firm up plastic and add a few grams of weight, that might be the answer. Any ideas would be welcome. Frank

Jim, first of all, thanks for your past contributions and especially your evaluation of this product! I have to agree with the characteristics you mentioned regarding the other plastics and I'm always in the market for better plastic than M-F, Calhouns, LC or Chemionics. M-F used to be top dog, but consistent quality went out the window years ago. I evalutated 6 samples of Chemionics for Bear and like 2 formualtions but with reservations. LC cakes at the bottom in a 5 gallon pail - a big pain! So, until I test CaneyCreek plastic, I won't know if the extra cost is worth it and if I have problems based on my heating procedure, additives and reheats, I definitely wouldn't add to my frustration with the others I have laying around. I wish other would contribute their experiences. Jim. If you get a second gallon, I think all of us would appreciate another reveiw as to quality and consistentcy of the three grades - super soft, medium and salt water. I don't like adding hardener or softener if I don't have to and the other qualities are as important (bubbles, stink, fumes/smoke, etc.). Frank *** 3G - you got to be kidding! Nobody sells plastic that bad!! Their formualtion is the absolute worst.

Jim, first of all, thanks for you contributions and especially your evaluation of this product!

Reheat white plastic three or more times and you get bone.

Not to disagree about using salt or not, but if you want that Senko tip magic on the horizontal drop, the only way I know of weighting a stick is using super soft plastic loaded with fine salt. Some use it for taste in other designs, but IMO it's as useless as an enhancement as matching the hatch with realistic finishes. Besides, salt makes thin parts flimsy and the plastic harder after it soaks because it absorbs water. Yamamoto grubs are garbage because of added salt. Frank

I use Diamond's very fine salt and the lures come out pretty clear with or without dye. You can get it at most supermarkets in the seasoning section. I tried pulverizing regular salt in a coffee grinder and found it makes the plastic cloudy. Frank

Thanks all for your replies. I'm not too worried about infringement for my personal use and for a few others through word of mouth recommendations. Bob nor LC will make the mold if there's a patent on it, so I've make POP molds of both the Rage Tail and Zoom Speed Craw. I have yet to try the lures out to see if the action is close.

I agree. I have all three sizes of LC swimbait and they all swim fine and catch bass and pickerel! Good value for the money. One thing I do is cut a slit into the front of the mold and insert the handle of a metal teaspoon before pouring. It creates a hollow in the body, easier for hook sets. I take a soldering iron, using the thin blade or a heated knife and close the front off. Cutting the silicone doesn't damage the mold. I've also inserted the handle into the bottom of the mold to accomplish the same thing.

Strike King came out with the Rage Tail Craw and other baits that use that unique tail design. If I went to an aluminum mold maker and had him reproduce just the claw section (double tails) with my own lure body design, would there be a patent violation? The tail design is the best I've seen , though Zoom's Speed Craw claw design comes in a close second. I haven't seen patent numbers for either bait thus far, but the more they sell the more apt they are to get patent protection. I bring this up because, for example, the Sweet Beaver has been modified by many and sold under different names. I doubt Andre is seeing any proceeds under his patent from the sale of modified Beavers. Frank

Wonder if you could have adapted a metal blade to replace the plastic one. Looks like the three glides were also made of plastic. I think it was a bit of hype suggesting the 700 degree tolerance and they never expected to be called on it by cooks who only use it for sauce and soup. Still, something my wife might like for the price. Too bad they didn't include shipping both ways in your refund. Frank

If I like the prototype, I make a POP mold. Plastic prototypes are much easier to get out of the pop cavity vs. using clay.

lurecraft and MF Bear's plastic is decent. Been burned by Calhouns.

Worst place for skirts and service: www.livingrubber.com Waited three weeks to be told order wasn't shipped. Waited over a month and still no b/o. Sent back everything and asked for a refund, including b/o. Another company that doesn't return e-mails!

Kim is great! Knows her stuff when it comes to products and always accomodates a search for things not listed. Sometimes you pay a bit more for service (s/h); better than paying less and getting crap service! We've all been there.

Spike-It sells worm dip and chunk paint that's okay in a pinch. I have five year old bottles that have lasted with little evaporation. Can't say the same for Lurecraft dip. The lid on the glass bottle doesn't keep the liquid from evaporating and I have 50 percent less since I bought it this year. The price is only 3 bucks, but considering the problem of storage, it's not worth it. Lurecrafts soft plastic opaque paint probably has the same problem and Kim has told me a few ways to prevent loss, but I think I'll stick with Spike-It. I have used artist's acrylic paint as a soft plastic paint for stripes, eyes, dots, etc. after swabbing the area first with acetone or PVC pipe prep. So far so good staying on the lure with multiple casts. Cost wise it's close to Spike-It but spike-it paint in black clumps after a year. Frank

Good job! Bear does have some nice mold and service to match.

I think you mean fishingskirts.com Great selection, good service and decent prices. Lurecraft carries some of their skirt materials at similar prices. FrankM

This applies to 2-part aluminum molds. Fold a piece of al foil and place where you want the slot to be on one side of the mold. Close it Pour the bait. Just make sure the nuts are tight. Flashing is minimal. I use this idea with Lurecraft swimbaits (single top pour) and cut a slit through the bottom, pull the al up into the cavity and pour. Got the idea from Bears injection swimbait mold that has a blade insert to produce hollow swimbaits. Frank

If I'm not mistaken, Bob is a part of the company and has always provided good prices per cavity, quality and service. I've been using more and more Lurecraft silicone molds also. Again good prices and service.