rookiepourer

Sculpy clay should work. I have used it before to make some masters and using RVT silicone for the molds. After baking you can still work with it by shaving it down. If its got any appendages on it you can do those seperately and glue it after. Hope this helps.

I have poured mine with salt 4 tbsp/ 1.5 cups of plastic. Once I worked out the pouring sequence it works good but takes awhile because you have to pour the tails first. I haven't had a chance to fish with them yet. I am going to try without salt after the bubble question is answered. Mark

I have also had a problem with Calhouns plastic forming bubbles on me. I don't use a microwave so I can't comment on that. With the pouring pots my bubbles are real small and don't dissipate. I haven't poured any baits without salt due to this problem. I don't know what the problem is but think it's a humidity factor. When I got my last batch of plastic in July , 2 gallons, I didn't have this problem. I poured alot of beavers without salt and nothing was wrong. The humidity has been unusually high here in So.Cal. this summer and am thinking that this is the cause. I hope we get some kind of info back on some remedy. I need to pour some baits without salt and really can't afford to buy more plastic Mark

I also use calhouns and I add softner to it as well. I use an eye dropper and use 25 drops for 1.25 cups of plastic. As for the salt I salt the top right after pouring so the salt gets absorbed into the hot plastic but I never salt any tails, legs, etc. In my opionion I think the aluminum molds are great. They do cost more but they will last alot longer. Mark

I was reading this post and some others and decided to try and make something a little different. It's a strange color after it's poured. I used1.5 cups plastic w/softner 25 drops. 10 drops LC watermelon, 10 drops LC green pumpkin, 5 drops LC rootbeer and 1/8 cup copper pearl. I had some extra copper pearl that I had laying around and I think it was 3/4 cup plastic and 1/4 teaspoon Copper pearl. Looks like a brownish tint green pumpkin until you put it in the sun light. Then the copper really jumps out. I can't wait to try this out with my new beaver molds I got from Bob's Mark

I am looking for .035 size glitter thats like the purple/fushia color in Yamamotos color 221. Lure craft doesn't sell it. Their purple is alot darker. Craft glitter doesn't work either. Any suggestions would be appreciated Mark

I have had the best luck by pouring the rvt over the blank that way the air bubbles rise up, which ends up being on the bottom of the mold. good luck. Mark

LC or M-F don't carry the fuscia color on their web sites. I found some fuscia color glitter at a crafts store. Tried that, It doesn't work. Once you add it to the hot plastic it loses its color. Polycryl corporation has no web-site so I can't see the color before buying a full pound. Any other suggestions? Mark

I am trying to find a purple glitter simular to what Yamamoto uses. I currently have LC's purple but its not the same. Anybody have suggestions on who makes a brighter purple? I have noticed that the Yami's is an octagon shape vs. LC's square shape. Any suggestions would be appreciated Mark

Alby The molds I made by glueing the blanks on the bottom turned out alot better that way. After they were cured the air bubbles are not noticable on the top but if you turn the mold over you can see the bubbles that never made it out. I was using RTV I got on-line from an art suppy store called Douglas and Sturgess (San Fran). The cure time was alot faster by putting them in the oven. I was pouring worms three hours later. They have a data sheet thats provided with the silicone for ratio and cure time. Hope this helps Mark

I bought some silicone to make my own molds and the first one was a disaster. I tried to stick the blanks in after filling the cavity with the RTV. Turned out there was alot of air bubbles in the RTV. the second ones I did I glued the blanks on the bottom and the air bubbles are now on the bottom. I have seen other molds made from the top but they had a machine that sucked all the air out of the silicone first. Hope this helps. Mark

I pour seven different baits, drop shot worms, 5.5" curl tail worm, 6" flippin worms, jig trailers, 4.5" paddle tail worms, 10" curl tail worm and 5.25" senko type worm. The only worms I add salt dirrectly in the plastic are the senko's. The others are all salted on the bottom of the worms excluding the tail sections. If you add salt to the whole worm it will not float up off the bottom. As for the senko's it's 4tblsp salt for 1/2cup plastic. In pool testing they fall about 1/2 sec faster to the bottom of a 8' deep pool. I hope this helps Mark

I have used KickNBass, liquid Bang, Procure and Berkley scents directly into the hot plastic. The KNB and Bang work the best for me. Berkley has evidently has some water in it because it will pop and bubble up. The procure craw just bubbles up and takes awhile to get it mixed up. I have only been using KNB and Bang depending on the worm colors. KNB will yellow any clear or white bait. I have never had a burning problem due to adding the scent. Hope this helps. Mark

I have been having a hard time coming up with these two colors. I am trying to find a close copy to Robo's Oxblood light and Yamamoto's Cinnimon. Anybody have suggestions? I have LC Oxblood, Natural, Rootbeer and brown. Lc's oxblood looks nothing like Robo's Oxblood light color. Thanks for any info passed along. Mark

Hey everyone. I just thought I'd post a picture of some of the baits I have poured. Three of them are Del's molds and they work great. The dropshot mold and trailer mold I made out of aluminum. The two tan ones are blanks I am currently trying to make silicone molds out of. Thanks for all the help from this sites members Mark