robalo01

Don't use Softner as release agent!! make baits sticky.

I have a bout 500+ resin molds and produce about 3000-4000 pieces per week. I do use worm oil as a release agent. I make my models out of molder's clay and then make a "test" mold. If I like it, I then cast a silicone mold of the resin mold (a positive mold) and then copy the mold to as many cavities as I need. I have noticed that the test mold is MUCH more likely to need a release agent than the copies. The plastic never completely sticks, but since I use pretty soft plastic, and I would otherwise have to wait about thirty minutesfor the plastic to completely cool to demold. I am looking into getting a silicone based domlding agent. My plastic supplier is getting a sample for me. It is supposed to be sprayed on once every 30-40 castings and provide a shiny surface. We'll see. Stephen Gula Baits

My biggest concern is the minimal capacity. I would think that the time saved in not having to filler a hand injector would be eaten up by having to refill and heat up plastic so often.

bear's Kodiac Craw is a good alternative

Last winter, I made one out of a piece of copper pipe, a fitting for a tip and some turned dowel (with o-ring) for the plunger. It worked great. I still use it from time to time. If what you want to do is save money, go this route.

So you're saying you can sell 800 10-inch grubs for $40?

Sizes??? Colors???

I thought you wrote that the z-lizards were sold??

You know, all you have to do is pour a 7" stick and leave it in the bent potision for a few hours and you pretty much have it.

So, while we are on the topic, how about a quick poll: How much would you be willing to pay for a working injection machine (kind of like this one) that will handle Bear's or Del's mold, to name a few? Anbd what kind of performance would be required to out produce hand injecting? I think I would pay about $800 for something like that. Stephen

There are really only two reasons you get tacky baits: 1. Not mixed properly a. It sounds like you did b. Your supplier may have sent you an un-balanced mix 2. You're not cooking the plastic correctly a. Underheating will give you tacky, slightly milky baits b. Overheating will give you tacky, slightly smoky baits Stephen

What companies are asking for 100,000 minimums? I ususally buy from sorty's, but I might be interested in buying 100Gs.

Is that bears twin tail injected lizard?

Ok. I may be comming in late on this one, but I've searched the archives and haven't seen this. Is anybody out there shooting swirls? Particulalry stcks? I've poured swirls before, but don;t see where anybody has hand-injeted them.

I am inclidened to believe Iit's something I am doing wrong and not the mold, but i'll get in touch.

1. It tends to gert worse as the mold worms up, so that isn't the problem. 2. I don't have dents (ususally associated to shrinking plastic), I do top offthe molds. And, the problem doesn't appear with single colored baits, only with colored-pre-poured tips. Has anyone else experienced this? I tried injecting faster, slower; raising and lowering the temp of the plastic, with no noticable diference.

I'm injecting Bear's 5.25" side-port mold. WIth one color, no problem, eveything comes out great, but whenI add a tip, and then pour i get one or two bubbles (ranging from bb to a pea) in the top cavity near the tail/body splice. I assume air is getting trapped in there and the vent is stopped by the pre-poured tail. Strange thin is, that even if i try and leave the top cavity solid (no tail insert), i still get the bubbles. Would adding an additional vent at the splice be effective? or, am I ruining the mold?

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A couple more things I am noticing about injecting... 1. I think the consistancy of the salt ratio has improved. When pouring off the bottom, the salt density varies according to the amont of plastic in the pot. I think sucking from the middle gets a more consitent mix. 2. Injecting is a little more messy that pouring. I have a lot more drips and such on the table when I am done.

A couple more things: Con: A bit more messy than hand pouring. Lots of drips to clean up: Pro: You gotta love the way you can just pull off the sprues. Cut time and makes a clean cut. It is great.

Well, after pouring sticks for about eight months, I thought I would try hand injection. Benn working on it for a week, and here are my findings: 1. The fact that you can pour at a lower temp does improve color consistancy and reduces demolding time by about 15-20%. 2. Actually filling the molds is about 50% faster (taking into account preping the injector and filling one mold). 3. these eficiencies can only be taken advantage of with more molds. That is, if you want to increase production you need to increase the number of cavities. I find that with hand pouring,I reach terminal velocity at about three 5-cavitymolds. That is, by the time I´m finished pouring the third mold, the first one is ready to de-mold. With injection molding, I think this could be increased to about 5 molds in the same time. The point is, injection molding begins to be more productive after the third mold, if you are using fewer, you might as well hand pour. BTW, I did notice fewer mis-pours, and there is much to be said about the endless possibilities for small appendages. I´m going to stick with it, as it serves my purposes well.

Look for D&J Plastics or Southern Plastics.

I made a rod lathe that has worked well for me for years: http://kensfishingrods.com/workshop/articles/rodlathe.htm I also made a lath to turn wodden popper bodies. It's basically the same thing except I use two sewing machine motors and two three-inch pulleys. For the axel, I used a 5/8" standard thread, 6" bolt. A 3/8" to 1/2" galvanised coupler fits the bolt snug and, you can screw in a 3/4" wooden dowel into the 1/2" galv threads. (This holds the dowel for turning). For the live center I used a 3/4" berring mounted on an aluminun rail so I can slide it to and from the head. I can turn a dowel on the end (to make the concave mouth of the lure) then just keep feading it through to complete the body. Harder explain than to build. I may have a bout $40 invested, made hundreds of lures.