robalo01

http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b602/Stephen_Ashcraft/oldlurequestion_zps7cb5d607.jpg Please!

Poly resin alone will burn. Check out a thread from a couple of days ago entitled "making bondo heat proof" Vodkaman makes some good points.

1. Where do you get your High Temp RTV? 2. How many casts does it last? Is it pretty much eternal? 3. How about the alumilite molding putty?

I've never used silicon molds for lead before. 1. Where do you buy your silicon? 2. About how many castings do you get out of a silicon mold? Say a 1/2 jig mold. using 75ml of silicon. Stephen

Hi, I have made quite a few bondo molds for lead pouring in my days and they work, but they don't last very long. Is there anything that could be added to it to make it more heat resistant? Silica sand, iron oxide, etc? Is POP or Durams Water Putty more heat resistant than bondo? Stephen

http://furylures.com/products/rattle-baits/#

So, what would you say the max amount of MicrBs you should mix with Alumilite resin could be?

I found the pic: http://makelure.com/Lures.cfm As I read it, alumilte at 50:50 with microballoons weighs .69 grams per CC vs Balsa at about 18 g per CC. Correct? Stephen

I am surprised at how we screw eyes hold up with the resin baits. It is a good idea to index the exact point you want to place them with a nail in the model before making the mold.

Best price I do-it molds. Sinker eyes. If you buy by the lb.

One more question. Let's say you came up with a resin/microballoon formula that you wanted to consistently apply to a large series of baits. Could you pre mix the resin/microballoons and store for a couple of weeks?

I am thinking about ordering some alumilite resin for pouring had baits. Any suggestion as to which one to get? Regular, Clear, white?

As to the question on how much microbballoons to add, you would have to look at the specific weight:volume of both the resin and the microballoons you are using. To give you an example, I source my materials locally, for what I use a 15% mix by volume makes the product neutral (without hardware and finish), I have found that about 40% for smaller cranks and a little less for larger lures works best. The more you add the higher the viscosity the resin and the more fragile the bait. For a couple of lures I have to inject the resin mix with a 25CC syringe. I opened up the tip to 1/4" and the mold has lines that inject from the bottom up to release the air. Inject very slowly and you get a perfect product with very little flashing and gate to cut off.

I think we are confusing Ichthus here. He is asking... When making a multi-piece bait (let's say front and back for the sake of argument), should one make a single mold and cast both forward and rear halves already linked together? or pour them in two separate molds and link them together later?

Here is a lure I made with ground cork and poly resin. It is about 50/50 mix, well and then I added a littl industrial talk to keep the resin from being too brittle. http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/Robalo01/WP_20140705_008.jpg It beeeeearly floats without the hooks. It will probably swim ok. Interesting thing is, the cork floats to the top so the lure's center of gravity drops without the need for adding ballast.

With the MCU, do you dip and turn? or just dip ans drip?

First, when you say "tap the can", do you mean to extract a small amount into a second container so as not to open the first one as often? second, are there any mcu out there to stay away from?

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/Robalo01/WP_20140703_0051.jpg http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/Robalo01/WP_20140703_004.jpg http://s1237.photobucket.com/user/Robalo01/media/WP_20140703_0061.jpg.html http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff465/Robalo01/WP_20140703_007.jpg I made this little lathe a few years ago while looking for an easy way to turn Bass Poppers. It uses 1" dowels and runs on two sewing machine motors. It is crude but it made a ton of little wooden baits in its time. It is tough to find dowels made of light wood in my area, though. I bring it out of retirement from time to time to turn something I need ( e.g. I made plug lid for an olive oil bottle for my wife last week.) I though some of you might get a kick out of it.

I have been doing some tests dipping dowels under various conditions. So far what I like best is semi-rough sanding acrylic sealer sand with fine sandpaper light d2t coat dip in enamel paint with acrylics double dip in mcu

Stanford lure has a neat jig for cutting the lip slots after the paint. I think it is one of the last steps.

How much volume is 5 lbs of microbaloons?

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/index.php?/gallery/image/13446-bass-chopper/ This is a lure I made back in 2003. Mini-lathe, white pine, rattle cans, hand brushed details. The D2T is still holding up! Stephen